Bike just serviced and gears jump
Discussion
As the title says.
I have recently had a bit of an argument with my LBS over the quality of the bike they sold me. As a courtesy they have replaced my broken Araya wheels with Weinmann ones and serviced the bike.
First time out on the bike yesterday; Selected a middle gear (fourth ring down on the cassette) to climb a mile long hill at a speed of 9/10 MPH and the chain kept jumping. Nothing appears to be broken.
I've lost faith in the shop and the bike as one of the staff members there agreed with my complaint that the bike (a Scott Aspect 50) is 'basically crap'.
Does anyone have any idea what might be causing the jumping, everything appears to be in good condition.
Thanks.
I have recently had a bit of an argument with my LBS over the quality of the bike they sold me. As a courtesy they have replaced my broken Araya wheels with Weinmann ones and serviced the bike.
First time out on the bike yesterday; Selected a middle gear (fourth ring down on the cassette) to climb a mile long hill at a speed of 9/10 MPH and the chain kept jumping. Nothing appears to be broken.
I've lost faith in the shop and the bike as one of the staff members there agreed with my complaint that the bike (a Scott Aspect 50) is 'basically crap'.
Does anyone have any idea what might be causing the jumping, everything appears to be in good condition.
Thanks.
+1 Stiff link.
Try standing the bike upright, and turn the pedals fairly slowly backwards. Watch the chain running through the jockey wheels in the rear mech, as if this is a stiff link it would normlly not bend sufficently around the tight circumference of a jockey wheel as easily as the other links, and you'd expect to see some drag on the mech.
If this is the case, then I'd suggest checking the pin is in the link properly. If it is then just hold the chain in your hands, either side of the stiff link and flex it sideways to and fro a couple of times. I normally find this works and the stiff link has gone.
If the pin isn't in propoerly, then push it in a bit futher with a chain tool and the follow the above if needed.
HTH
Try standing the bike upright, and turn the pedals fairly slowly backwards. Watch the chain running through the jockey wheels in the rear mech, as if this is a stiff link it would normlly not bend sufficently around the tight circumference of a jockey wheel as easily as the other links, and you'd expect to see some drag on the mech.
If this is the case, then I'd suggest checking the pin is in the link properly. If it is then just hold the chain in your hands, either side of the stiff link and flex it sideways to and fro a couple of times. I normally find this works and the stiff link has gone.
If the pin isn't in propoerly, then push it in a bit futher with a chain tool and the follow the above if needed.
HTH
PeteSV said:
+1 Stiff link.
Try standing the bike upright, and turn the pedals fairly slowly backwards. Watch the chain running through the jockey wheels in the rear mech, as if this is a stiff link it would normlly not bend sufficently around the tight circumference of a jockey wheel as easily as the other links, and you'd expect to see some drag on the mech.
If this is the case, then I'd suggest checking the pin is in the link properly. If it is then just hold the chain in your hands, either side of the stiff link and flex it sideways to and fro a couple of times. I normally find this works and the stiff link has gone.
If the pin isn't in propoerly, then push it in a bit futher with a chain tool and the follow the above if needed.
Thanks for this, I'll have a look tomorrow.Try standing the bike upright, and turn the pedals fairly slowly backwards. Watch the chain running through the jockey wheels in the rear mech, as if this is a stiff link it would normlly not bend sufficently around the tight circumference of a jockey wheel as easily as the other links, and you'd expect to see some drag on the mech.
If this is the case, then I'd suggest checking the pin is in the link properly. If it is then just hold the chain in your hands, either side of the stiff link and flex it sideways to and fro a couple of times. I normally find this works and the stiff link has gone.
If the pin isn't in propoerly, then push it in a bit futher with a chain tool and the follow the above if needed.
Is there a reason why it would only happen in one particular gear?
Bike is less than 1500 miles old.
Drive train has already been replaced once.
When it was serviced they said all was fine.
Edited to add this from an earlier post by me, what do you think?
Some of this will sound petty but it soon mounts up. The very first time I took the bike out I got a puncture which turned out to be a split tube. Couldn't find a problem so put it down to faulty manufacture and put another tube on - same puncture occurred again. After much scratching of heads the LBS determined the rim tape was too harsh for the tubes, as the tube was inflated the tape was actually cutting into the tubes. Bit of a ballache when you've had to push the damn thing home. Two sets of pedals have snapped inside a year. The crank, chainwheels, cassette and chain have all needed replacing after the chain snapped as I climbed a hill. The seatpost shifts inside the seat tube. The gear cables have needed replacing. The BB has been changed and now the rear wheel is making some sort of awful noise when freewheeling. As I say, it may sound petty but the knackered old DB that Miss MV uses performs perfectly. I don't want a superlightweight flying machine, I just want a bike that works. I've been accused on here of being heavy-handed and mechanically unsympathetic, I'm not and the bike is pampered. In short, it is crap.
Drive train has already been replaced once.
When it was serviced they said all was fine.
Edited to add this from an earlier post by me, what do you think?
Some of this will sound petty but it soon mounts up. The very first time I took the bike out I got a puncture which turned out to be a split tube. Couldn't find a problem so put it down to faulty manufacture and put another tube on - same puncture occurred again. After much scratching of heads the LBS determined the rim tape was too harsh for the tubes, as the tube was inflated the tape was actually cutting into the tubes. Bit of a ballache when you've had to push the damn thing home. Two sets of pedals have snapped inside a year. The crank, chainwheels, cassette and chain have all needed replacing after the chain snapped as I climbed a hill. The seatpost shifts inside the seat tube. The gear cables have needed replacing. The BB has been changed and now the rear wheel is making some sort of awful noise when freewheeling. As I say, it may sound petty but the knackered old DB that Miss MV uses performs perfectly. I don't want a superlightweight flying machine, I just want a bike that works. I've been accused on here of being heavy-handed and mechanically unsympathetic, I'm not and the bike is pampered. In short, it is crap.
Edited by mattviatura on Friday 6th July 14:18
PeteSV said:
Hmm, only one gear
that would normally mean that a cog is worn and the chain is sliping.
This.that would normally mean that a cog is worn and the chain is sliping.
I used to commute on my MTB and spent 90% of the time in cog #6 (out of 8) on the rear.
Wore it down to nothing.
Brand new chain and the damn thing slipped like crazy in #6 but fine elsewhere.
= new cassette.
1,500 miles is a reasonable amount.
I would certainly expect at least one new chain in that time.
A new cassette = yes IF you only use one cog.
2 new cassettes sounds terrible.
New cables - not surprising.
New cranks?? That's bad - other than when I overtighten and ruin them, I have NEVER replaced a crank.
New BB - fair enough. The UN26 is totally standard and very cheap though - mine tend to last 4,000+ miles.
Pedals shouldn't break. Get some SPDs? Best £25 I have ever spent on a bike.
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