Should I have specced PASM on my 991?
Discussion
I have been driving my 1st 911 for 3 weeks now; a new 991 Cab. Having previously owned 2 Boxsters I find the 991 feels like a big lump and not as nimble. It's certainly quicker and handles reasonably well but I wonder if I should have opted for PASM and also wonder could I have it fitted by my OPC? And qould it cost a fortune?
No you can't cheaply retrofit PASM through OPC, though you could go aftermarket.
If comfort as well as mass is part of your beef, then, before you go to those lengths I strongly suggest you take the simple step of setting your tyres to comfort pressures (or just letting out some air). And if that doesn't work the easiest and most effective solution (which will also improve handling and NVH) is to switch to some Michelin Pilot Super Sports tyres - quieter, smoother and grippier. You can't get N-rated yet but you don't need N-rated to meet the new car warranty. Don't let anyone on here tell you otherwise. My OPC fitted mine.
If comfort as well as mass is part of your beef, then, before you go to those lengths I strongly suggest you take the simple step of setting your tyres to comfort pressures (or just letting out some air). And if that doesn't work the easiest and most effective solution (which will also improve handling and NVH) is to switch to some Michelin Pilot Super Sports tyres - quieter, smoother and grippier. You can't get N-rated yet but you don't need N-rated to meet the new car warranty. Don't let anyone on here tell you otherwise. My OPC fitted mine.
The issue is structural really. A low polar moment of inertia car like the Boxster will always feel more "nimble" than a higher polar moment of inertia like the 911, where a big part of the weight is still outside the space between the axles.
A little work on toe and camber can help up to a point but adaptive dampers or reduced roll won't make much difference.
A little work on toe and camber can help up to a point but adaptive dampers or reduced roll won't make much difference.
Agree with comment above. You could get the GEO tweaked more towards a track/fast road setup and that will improve initial turn-in response. I have a 997 GT3 and the set-up makes a huge different to the handling and the feel. It shouldn't cost much to get it done or affect warranty etc.
Ady128 said:
Yes, good idea. I've yet to have my Silverstone course.
You will learn a great deal about weight transfer on this course and come away better equipped to make the most of your wonderful car. Especially, trail braking into a corner with the correct delicacy and smoothness to load the front wheels for optimum turn-in, followed by a smooth, progressive throttle from the apex. See how I used the word "smooth" twice there. Others here will agree this is the essence.
Moosh said:
I would drive it for a while before you spend any cash. It can take a little while to get use to the rear engine weight over the back axle and does take a different style of driving.
That's just the point, a 991S doesn't feel like a rear engine car at all 
drive a 997 fast into a corner and it want's to go straight on unlike a 991Edited by Tony 1234 on Wednesday 11th July 14:03
nickfrog said:
The issue is structural really. A low polar moment of inertia car like the Boxster will always feel more "nimble" than a higher polar moment of inertia like the 911, where a big part of the weight is still outside the space between the axles.
A little work on toe and camber can help up to a point but adaptive dampers or reduced roll won't make much difference.
This is a good summary of the fundamental difference between these two chassis. Less weight and lower polar moment of inertia = more nimbleA little work on toe and camber can help up to a point but adaptive dampers or reduced roll won't make much difference.
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