What chassis paint?
Discussion
I think the time has come to spruce up the chassis of my 1994 Defender.
Can anybody suggest the best/easiest to apply/longest lasting chassis paint as it's not a job I'm planning on doing again!
I was going to give it a quick wire brush and then brush paint something on, but am open to suggestions.
Cheers
Can anybody suggest the best/easiest to apply/longest lasting chassis paint as it's not a job I'm planning on doing again!
I was going to give it a quick wire brush and then brush paint something on, but am open to suggestions.
Cheers
I'm currently planning this too 
To get us going....
Frosts por15 chassis coat, and por15 rust preventer.
Also looked at tractol paint
Ofc there's always Hammerite etc.
Also lookup rustoleum, tekaloid, rustbeater epoxy mastic......
I've not decided what to use either, or what's best if your prep is not brilliant.
To get us going....
Frosts por15 chassis coat, and por15 rust preventer.
Also looked at tractol paint
Ofc there's always Hammerite etc.
Also lookup rustoleum, tekaloid, rustbeater epoxy mastic......
I've not decided what to use either, or what's best if your prep is not brilliant.
POR15 is great but can require a lot of prep and it's fussy about it being done right.
I've painted POR15 directly onto the top face of the front chassis cross-member (when the rad was out for recore) and mostly got away with it, a few fish eyes but not bad.
However, on the pedalbox that was very rusty, I followed the full POR15 procedure: degreased with Marine Clean, primed with Metal Ready and then the POR15 but had problems with fisheyes again.
If you can get a few coats of POR15 paint on, I reckon it will last for a decade at least. Sets like enamel, pretty tough, although it can be scraped off if you try hard enough or (like me) have parts scape together whilst re-assembling. Need to be careful with bolt holes etc too as the paint will reduce the clearances quite a bit. Good stuff though, if you have patience !
I've painted POR15 directly onto the top face of the front chassis cross-member (when the rad was out for recore) and mostly got away with it, a few fish eyes but not bad.
However, on the pedalbox that was very rusty, I followed the full POR15 procedure: degreased with Marine Clean, primed with Metal Ready and then the POR15 but had problems with fisheyes again.
If you can get a few coats of POR15 paint on, I reckon it will last for a decade at least. Sets like enamel, pretty tough, although it can be scraped off if you try hard enough or (like me) have parts scape together whilst re-assembling. Need to be careful with bolt holes etc too as the paint will reduce the clearances quite a bit. Good stuff though, if you have patience !
I thought I'd do a bit of rust repair, and did a bit of reading around. The best rust converter is phosphoric acid, which is contained in most commercial rust treatments, (and also Coa-Cola to give it the sharp taste AND rot your tooth enamel!) but the strongest and cheapest is to buy a farming product called Milkstone Remover - this is up to 60% acid, and costs about £12 for 5 litres. It needs diluting and brush it on after wire brushing. Don't flick it into your eyes!
Quite a lot of car restorers say that after rust conversion, special paints are unnecessary as you've done the anti-rust part already, so use any household exterior metal paint in whatever colour you fancy. Which will be black.
Quite a lot of car restorers say that after rust conversion, special paints are unnecessary as you've done the anti-rust part already, so use any household exterior metal paint in whatever colour you fancy. Which will be black.
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