Cooling air intake
Discussion
Any ideas?
I had a new engine dropped in a couple of years ago by TVR Power, it's pretty much what they now package up as the Taraka.
The other month I had some work done by Austec so that I could run the engine un-retarded and had some gas work done as well as the Mark Admas stuff.
Engine is now running very, very smooth and has a lot more oomph.
However, I've just spent the weekend in Europe with a mate in a 996T and was tantilizingly close to being able to keep up.
Basically, they are matched to 60 and then the porker just starts to munch away. The porker is just an awesome wagon and I was pretty surprised that the griff could fair anywhere near as well as it did.
An extra bit of power could well resolve this little problem.
I noticed that the air pipe runs alongside one of the manifold banks and gets rediculously hot. Was wondering if anyone has gone down the route of trying to keep this ducting cooler or tried getting colder air into it?
TIA
I had a new engine dropped in a couple of years ago by TVR Power, it's pretty much what they now package up as the Taraka.
The other month I had some work done by Austec so that I could run the engine un-retarded and had some gas work done as well as the Mark Admas stuff.
Engine is now running very, very smooth and has a lot more oomph.
However, I've just spent the weekend in Europe with a mate in a 996T and was tantilizingly close to being able to keep up.
Basically, they are matched to 60 and then the porker just starts to munch away. The porker is just an awesome wagon and I was pretty surprised that the griff could fair anywhere near as well as it did.
An extra bit of power could well resolve this little problem.
I noticed that the air pipe runs alongside one of the manifold banks and gets rediculously hot. Was wondering if anyone has gone down the route of trying to keep this ducting cooler or tried getting colder air into it?
TIA
There is a heat reflective wrap around item from Demon Tweeks. (Air Intake Cover Kit. part number 010417).£69.84 plus drat.
Essentially it is a long rectangular piece of metal foil backed insulating material with velcro down the long sides.
You wrap it around the intake tube to the airflow meter and fasten it all together with the velcro.
Essentially it is a long rectangular piece of metal foil backed insulating material with velcro down the long sides.
You wrap it around the intake tube to the airflow meter and fasten it all together with the velcro.
Have you got the ACT silicone air filter to AFM pipe? If not, it insulates the incoming air much better than the standard pipe, and gives a much less restrictive air path.
Also worth fitting the Bosch air flow meter, but you will need the Mark Adams chip to be able to read this. By the sounds of it you already have the chip anyway. Those two mods should give around 10bhp.
The Porker's power to weight ratio will be about the same as your car, but as acceleration tails off over 100, the weight has less effect and it's all down to power and (more importantly) aerodynamics.
Also worth fitting the Bosch air flow meter, but you will need the Mark Adams chip to be able to read this. By the sounds of it you already have the chip anyway. Those two mods should give around 10bhp.
The Porker's power to weight ratio will be about the same as your car, but as acceleration tails off over 100, the weight has less effect and it's all down to power and (more importantly) aerodynamics.
The 520 has air temp sensors permanently wired into the air intake so I can see what temps the air actually gets to.
In practice with a moving car, the air flow is so much that it makes no real difference. The air is sourced from outside the engine bay which is the key thing. You can insulate the pipe but it will do very little in this case.
When the car is stopped, then the air temp will increase but will go down quickly as the car starts to move. Insulating the pipe will help but it will simply delay the heating. Given a long enough wait the temp will reach that of an uninsulated one. Insulation delays the heating up process nothing more.
In effect, it won't do any harm but equally it is unlikley to magically transform everything. If you want to play, buy one of those digital thermometers from Maplins for about £5-10 and put the probe inside the air intake flow and see what it does before making any changes.
In practice with a moving car, the air flow is so much that it makes no real difference. The air is sourced from outside the engine bay which is the key thing. You can insulate the pipe but it will do very little in this case.
When the car is stopped, then the air temp will increase but will go down quickly as the car starts to move. Insulating the pipe will help but it will simply delay the heating. Given a long enough wait the temp will reach that of an uninsulated one. Insulation delays the heating up process nothing more.
In effect, it won't do any harm but equally it is unlikley to magically transform everything. If you want to play, buy one of those digital thermometers from Maplins for about £5-10 and put the probe inside the air intake flow and see what it does before making any changes.
Thanks chaps,
I do already have the Bosch meter and new ducting.
Am just looking for a cheap way to squeeze a little more oomph
Currenlty getting nearly 270 and with the high lift cam, where the power comes in much higher than it used to it pulls like a train over 125mph and will pull away from a normal 500.
What is the most that people have heard of getting from a 4.5BV without spending huge sums?
I do already have the Bosch meter and new ducting.
Am just looking for a cheap way to squeeze a little more oomph
Currenlty getting nearly 270 and with the high lift cam, where the power comes in much higher than it used to it pulls like a train over 125mph and will pull away from a normal 500.
What is the most that people have heard of getting from a 4.5BV without spending huge sums?
RichB said:
No weight to lose, unfortunately.
Blimey - tell me your secret you could make a fortune, I've got about 3 stone I could shift. Not drinking the red wine would help I guessBut life's too short. Rich...
3.5 stone ditched in 5 months. Started going to the gym again.
shpub said:
Loose weight 
Every 10kg lost is equivalent to 2 extra BHP.
Seriously you probably have reached the limit or are close to it. You have reached the point where nothing is cheap except weight loss.
I chucked my spacesaver and got a can of tyreweld. Should loose you about 10-15KG, although some people say "what will happen if you have a blowout".
The seats also weigh a fair amount, must be over 10Kg each. Perhaps some secondhand carbonfiber rally ones will loose you another 20KG.
Theres 6-8 bhp already, a trip to the gym should get you the last couple
I have heard a few people go on about carbonfiber roof sections, but after talking to a friend at Jaguar F1 DIY carbonfiber seems expensive and difficult.
If you are feeling brave loose the roof altogether
Mine feels like at least 50 KG/ section, should be good for another 50 BHP. Z
loose the roof and it will add about 0.5s to 0-60 time and klnock about 15-20 off the top speed at circuits. It also makes the car very suspectible to cross winds. Been there done that.
Screws up the aerodynamics pretty badly.
The roof section is CF anyway.
>> Edited by shpub on Wednesday 11th August 18:23
Screws up the aerodynamics pretty badly.
The roof section is CF anyway.
>> Edited by shpub on Wednesday 11th August 18:23
shpub said:
The roof section is CF anyway.
>> Edited by shpub on Wednesday 11th August 18:23
Are you sure?
When I dropped mine a few weeks ago
and the corner chipped it revealed what looked like yellow resin and fibreglass. I assumed the carbon sheet on the inside surface was decorative only.Well I dont believe aerodynamics significantly affects 0-60, certainly not 0.5 sec. I also dont think the relation between weight loss and "equivalent" power is linear or constant, at top speed the power is fighting the air much more than the weight.
I suspect you have proved the Porsche has better aerodynamics than the Griffith, in which case even if you found your extra 30hp the Porsche might still pull away in the end, albeit at a higher speed.
Maybe the question should be: how to improve the TVR aerodynamics? Anyone put one in a wind tunnel?
I suspect you have proved the Porsche has better aerodynamics than the Griffith, in which case even if you found your extra 30hp the Porsche might still pull away in the end, albeit at a higher speed.
Maybe the question should be: how to improve the TVR aerodynamics? Anyone put one in a wind tunnel?
I guess a wind tunnel is the only way to be sure. I would guess the Porsche roof has less drag. I would also guess Porsche put theirs in a wind tunnel and TVR didnt... sometimes little details like wing mirrors can have a disproportionate impact on drag. And Porsche may manage the flow of air under the car.
I would guess that the TVR would have the lower frontal area, though, which should help it.
I would guess that the TVR would have the lower frontal area, though, which should help it.
RichB said:
I would guess the Porsche roof has less drag.
Why would you guess that? Rich...
Because the Porsche tapers smoothly towards the back, I would guess it keeps a smoother airflow attatched for longer. I would guess the fairly sharp cutoff of the TVR roof and the flappy sides generate turbulence.
There must be cdA figures for them somewhere... ?
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