Discussion
Hi, I just purchased my first TVR a couple of weeks back. It's a silver 1981 Tasmin 280i coupe. Really cool.
However, it has a tendancy to overheat - especially in stationary traffic in the recent heat. I flushed through the radiator and engine until the brown crud ran clear - all seems to be flowing OK. Even when driving normally the temp needle sits about 20% off the max - is this normal? Any ideas?
Cheers
However, it has a tendancy to overheat - especially in stationary traffic in the recent heat. I flushed through the radiator and engine until the brown crud ran clear - all seems to be flowing OK. Even when driving normally the temp needle sits about 20% off the max - is this normal? Any ideas?
Cheers
When you have a viscous coupling fan (mounted directly on the waterpump pulley), check that:
1. The fan is always running with a running engine. If not, viscous coupling is to be replaced (expensive and difficult to find).
2.With the engine temperature rising the fan should increase in speed. Because the viscous substance should become less fluid when the temperature rises, and increase the coupling internal friction to make the fan run faster. If not, see above.
Conversion to an electric fan could possible in theory, but on series I wedges the space is very limited. Perhaps it is possible, don't know myself as I have a 350i.
Rob
1. The fan is always running with a running engine. If not, viscous coupling is to be replaced (expensive and difficult to find).
2.With the engine temperature rising the fan should increase in speed. Because the viscous substance should become less fluid when the temperature rises, and increase the coupling internal friction to make the fan run faster. If not, see above.
Conversion to an electric fan could possible in theory, but on series I wedges the space is very limited. Perhaps it is possible, don't know myself as I have a 350i.
Rob
I wouldn't replace the viscous fan with an electric one. I'd possibly add an additional electric fan to the front of the radiator.
However this wouldn't be fixing the problem really just masking it, as 280i's don't suffer from cooling problem as much as the bigger V8 cars.
To check the viscous coupling you can try and stop or slow the fan by gently placing something (the handle end of a big screw driver for instance) against the fan when the engine is runing. Being sure theat it is with the direction of spin and not against it (like the clicky things kids put on their bicyle spokes). If you can stop the fan then the viscous coupling has given up the ghost and will not be spinning anything like it should be.
(Please note you do this test at your own risk - I will not replace any bodyparts lost.)
Another common thing missed on the cooling front is the insulation which is fixed to the top of the bonent.
If it is not glued properly it can hang down over the engine when the bonnet is shut and restrict the airflow. Make sure it's glued up - it looks better anyway!
It's worth checking these things first, but it could well be your radiator just need a re-core.
Hope this helps.
Bob.
However this wouldn't be fixing the problem really just masking it, as 280i's don't suffer from cooling problem as much as the bigger V8 cars.
To check the viscous coupling you can try and stop or slow the fan by gently placing something (the handle end of a big screw driver for instance) against the fan when the engine is runing. Being sure theat it is with the direction of spin and not against it (like the clicky things kids put on their bicyle spokes). If you can stop the fan then the viscous coupling has given up the ghost and will not be spinning anything like it should be.
(Please note you do this test at your own risk - I will not replace any bodyparts lost.)
Another common thing missed on the cooling front is the insulation which is fixed to the top of the bonent.
If it is not glued properly it can hang down over the engine when the bonnet is shut and restrict the airflow. Make sure it's glued up - it looks better anyway!
It's worth checking these things first, but it could well be your radiator just need a re-core.
Hope this helps.
Bob.
My series 1 280i came fitted with two small electric fans on a little frame- (plenty of space) - but one was u/s, so I retrofitted a viscous fan, which does a good job of cooling, and I KNOW it's always working.
As to yours:
Airlock ?
Water passages in engine itself might be gunged up.
Dicky thermostat/radcap?
Both cheap and easy to replace.
Final tip:
Try driving faster, and not stopping for traffic lights
As to yours:
Airlock ?
Water passages in engine itself might be gunged up.
Dicky thermostat/radcap?
Both cheap and easy to replace.
Final tip:
Try driving faster, and not stopping for traffic lights
On mine, the viscous fan wasn't very functional and she kept overheating. Since replaced the 2core rad with a 4core and attached an electric fan with thermostat to it. Much better now, even in traffic.
cheers
Dave
PS Doh, that's reminded me, I never put antifreeze in last time I filled her, must sort that b4 winter.....
>> Edited by york33 on Tuesday 10th August 22:57
cheers
Dave
PS Doh, that's reminded me, I never put antifreeze in last time I filled her, must sort that b4 winter.....
>> Edited by york33 on Tuesday 10th August 22:57
Thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated.
I'm pretty sure that the radiator and all other parts are OK...however the viscous fan unit has been replaced by an electric fan (from a Rover 600 according to the previous owner).
This is probably the root of the problem?!
What do you reckon Dave, should I look at putting a viscous fan back on it?
That's always a possibility...
I'm pretty sure that the radiator and all other parts are OK...however the viscous fan unit has been replaced by an electric fan (from a Rover 600 according to the previous owner).
This is probably the root of the problem?!
york33 said:
On mine, the viscous fan wasn't very functional and she kept overheating. Since replaced the 2core rad with a 4core and attached an electric fan with thermostat to it. Much better now, even in traffic.
What do you reckon Dave, should I look at putting a viscous fan back on it?
grahamw48 said:
Final tip:
Try driving faster, and not stopping for traffic lights
That's always a possibility...
Dave, put it in soon, plain water rots all alloy engines. Seriously.
ollieDavies said:
Thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated.
I'm pretty sure that the radiator and all other parts are OK...however the viscous fan unit has been replaced by an electric fan (from a Rover 600 according to the previous owner).
This is probably the root of the problem?!
york33 said:
On mine, the viscous fan wasn't very functional and she kept overheating. Since replaced the 2core rad with a 4core and attached an electric fan with thermostat to it. Much better now, even in traffic.
What do you reckon Dave, should I look at putting a viscous fan back on it?
Mine is fine with just the electric fan running. Depends if your Rover 600 one is pushing/pulling enough air through the rad? Is it a decent size? I wouldn't get rid of the electric one if it's working alright. Maybe replace it with another if it's feeble......
Think the best thing I did was replace the rad though, but the old one did have a hole in too.
Dave
I had a long term overheating problem with my 280 ever since I had it off the road for a couple of years. I seem to have cured it primarily by having the rad recored (Serck). I have also this week replaced the water pump owing to the gasket leaking and in the last couple of days it's running cooler than it has for years. I fitted a Pacet electric fan a couple a years ago and it seems fine although setting the operating point has always proved a bit hit and miss.
I thought my Mk1 was running to hot, gauge shows just 95 to 100, after testing the engine with a heat gauge it worked out the gauge was way out, engine runs about 80 to 85. but as it would involve dash out I will leave the old gauge in and just remember if it ever gets to 110, to worry.
degz said:
I thought my Mk1 was running to hot, gauge shows just 95 to 100, after testing the engine with a heat gauge it worked out the gauge was way out, engine runs about 80 to 85. but as it would involve dash out I will leave the old gauge in and just remember if it ever gets to 110, to worry.
What sort of heat gauge you using? if its one of those point and shoot jobbies,bear in mind its only reading surface temperature and it will be hotter inside especially in a pressurised system.
>> Edited by dickymint on Saturday 14th August 14:05
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