Cerbera rear exhaust silencer
Discussion
PuffsBack said:
Anyone know how easy it is to remove the rear exhaust silencer and pipes. Looks easy - just two clamps holding it on to the middle pipes - but before I go to the effort of jacking it up etc thought I would check first
Yeah just the two clamps and the rubber mounts at the other end. Took a bit of waggling to get mine off but not too hard.PuffsBack said:
Anyone know how easy it is to remove the rear exhaust silencer and pipes. Looks easy - just two clamps holding it on to the middle pipes - but before I go to the effort of jacking it up etc thought I would check first
You may find it useful to spray both rubber hangers with silicone spray first to make them slip over exhaust brackets easier.Regards
Simon
You have to have the patience of God !
I only have the facility of Axle Stands but have done it several times.
Be careful where you place the stands at the back coz they can interfere with your own positioning when trying to get the silencer box off its rubbers.
I've found the rubbers are mounted on threaded mounts. If you turn the locknuts(that hold the mounts) through 180 degrees then the rubbers will come off more easily. I would recommend plastering he rubber mounts with rubber grease (or WD40) JUST before you take them off. There is only just enough room to pull one side off but then, with the silencer box hanging down on one side, the second side comes off more easily.
The box itself is not light but can be supported with one arm by a puny weakling like me.
I unbolted the centre-section pipes from the Cats and pulled the whole section out together as I had no facilities to separate the silender from the pipes under the car. If you follow this path then make sure that you've placed the car and the axle stands far enough away from each other and any nearby walls in order to facilitate the extraction.
Oh, and be prepared to swear a lot.
Replacing the items is straight-forward enough except that you have gravity working against you
Best of ....
I only have the facility of Axle Stands but have done it several times.
Be careful where you place the stands at the back coz they can interfere with your own positioning when trying to get the silencer box off its rubbers.
I've found the rubbers are mounted on threaded mounts. If you turn the locknuts(that hold the mounts) through 180 degrees then the rubbers will come off more easily. I would recommend plastering he rubber mounts with rubber grease (or WD40) JUST before you take them off. There is only just enough room to pull one side off but then, with the silencer box hanging down on one side, the second side comes off more easily.
The box itself is not light but can be supported with one arm by a puny weakling like me.
I unbolted the centre-section pipes from the Cats and pulled the whole section out together as I had no facilities to separate the silender from the pipes under the car. If you follow this path then make sure that you've placed the car and the axle stands far enough away from each other and any nearby walls in order to facilitate the extraction.
Oh, and be prepared to swear a lot.
Replacing the items is straight-forward enough except that you have gravity working against you
Best of ....
?Undo the joint between the manifold and the cat (or decat), then you lie underneath the back with your head towards the front of the car. You can undo the bolts that hold the rubbers to the chassis easily enough and lower the box onto your chest with the intermediate pipes attached. Just slide the box down your body and legs to save scraping it along the ground then ease it onto the floor. A quick and easy 15 minute job.
OK - I have a set of long ramps that are perfect for the Cerbera. So the plan is
1) Reverse car on Ramps
2) Undo clamps at centre to rear section (near diff)
3) Support rear box on trolley jack
4) Remove, undo, cut (whatever is easiest) rubber mounts (I have two new ones)
5) Slide exhaust box back on trolley jack and remove
6) Mount new sports exhausts on rubbers and clamp to mid section
7) Lower car and wake up everyone within a 10 mile radius
8) Have a cup of tea if doing job in morning, beer if doing job in afternoon
Sounds so easy!
PS: And before anyone asks, yes it was me that bought the one for sale on ebay last week
1) Reverse car on Ramps
2) Undo clamps at centre to rear section (near diff)
3) Support rear box on trolley jack
4) Remove, undo, cut (whatever is easiest) rubber mounts (I have two new ones)
5) Slide exhaust box back on trolley jack and remove
6) Mount new sports exhausts on rubbers and clamp to mid section
7) Lower car and wake up everyone within a 10 mile radius
8) Have a cup of tea if doing job in morning, beer if doing job in afternoon
Sounds so easy!
PS: And before anyone asks, yes it was me that bought the one for sale on ebay last week
Edited by PuffsBack on Wednesday 18th July 08:57
I really wouldn't use a trolley jack - the box will fall off it. Its much easier just to lower it and slide it out.
ETA And don't forget if you have the underslung rear ARB you need to lower that (2 nuts each side on the brackets - leave the drop links attached).
ETA And don't forget if you have the underslung rear ARB you need to lower that (2 nuts each side on the brackets - leave the drop links attached).
Edited by Tanguero on Wednesday 18th July 09:48
I'm with Peter on the "no trolley jack". You won't be able to get in to loosen the hanging rubbers with a Jack in place. 
. By the time you've loosened the rubbers you will be feeling like Samson and you'll have no probs wielding the box around.
Just a bit worried about your "2) Undo clamps at centre to rear section (near diff)". Unless you're unbelievably lucky, the box won't separate easily from the pipes and you don't want to be hitting either of them with a mallet whilst in the restricted space under the car - I broke the mid-pipe bracket on mine and had vibrating exhaust pipe against the chassis for 18 months
The only way I found of separating the two (given that I broken the joining bracket by now) was to use a pipe spanner (and the ubiquitous WD-40) and separate each one separately.
ETA
Of course that does meen removing the Chassis Brace
. By the time you've loosened the rubbers you will be feeling like Samson and you'll have no probs wielding the box around.Just a bit worried about your "2) Undo clamps at centre to rear section (near diff)". Unless you're unbelievably lucky, the box won't separate easily from the pipes and you don't want to be hitting either of them with a mallet whilst in the restricted space under the car - I broke the mid-pipe bracket on mine and had vibrating exhaust pipe against the chassis for 18 months
The only way I found of separating the two (given that I broken the joining bracket by now) was to use a pipe spanner (and the ubiquitous WD-40) and separate each one separately.
ETA
Of course that does meen removing the Chassis Brace
Edited by Mr Cerbera on Wednesday 18th July 10:27
PuffsBack said:
OK cool, I really wanted to avoid removing the whole exhaust as the car is a Speed6 so the join of the mid pipes the manifolds is a lot more tricky than on an AJP
Sorry TSC, didn't realise it was a SS.Ignore all my comments - no experience with those babies.
Best of ....
Will be interested to see how you resolve the problems I had of the rotational torque of the sports (individual ?) silencers.
Edited by Mr Cerbera on Wednesday 18th July 10:57
Mr Cerbera said:
Sorry TSC, didn't realise it was a SS.
Ignore all my comments - no experience with those babies.
Best of ....
Will be interested to see how you resolve the problems I had of the rotational torque of the sports (individual ?) silencers.
The back box looks identical to the V8s, the hangers are the same, the join to the mid pipes are in the exact same location and the pipe diameter is the same at the join. So it looks, and I am 99% certain, that the V8 and S6 backbox is the same. The mid pipes however must be different because of the manifolds in the S6 being on the nearside only, with the top one being a ****** ot get to.Ignore all my comments - no experience with those babies.
Best of ....
Will be interested to see how you resolve the problems I had of the rotational torque of the sports (individual ?) silencers.
Edited by Mr Cerbera on Wednesday 18th July 10:57
Hence my reason for wanting to seperate the mid pipes from the backbox on the car.
To be honest its booked in to the local exhaust place near me next Wed morning so of course on a lift with the right tools should be much easier - I just like the satisfaction of doing it myself.
[quote=FUBAR]Very easy. Drive to your local Quick Fit and chuck them a few pound notes. Job jobbed
quote]
Good advice, I changed the rear box on my Speed Six as the current one was rattling from inside I guess the baffles had come loose since I had de-catted and the poping and banging had loosened something inside.
I went to kwick fit with the replacement back box and they changed it for a £5, they saved me a lot of hassle and loved having a look around the Cerbera. Just don't leave them alone with it!!..
quote]
Good advice, I changed the rear box on my Speed Six as the current one was rattling from inside I guess the baffles had come loose since I had de-catted and the poping and banging had loosened something inside.
I went to kwick fit with the replacement back box and they changed it for a £5, they saved me a lot of hassle and loved having a look around the Cerbera. Just don't leave them alone with it!!..
Edited by natben on Wednesday 18th July 16:43
The sports pipes on my car always go wonky. The last time I couldn't be arsed to drive it to Austec again and instead opted for the exhaust garage 2 miles from home. Within 10 minutes they had straightened the pipes, replaced a broken clamp (which apparently is why it kept slipping) and sent me on my way for a total cost of £1.49 for the clamp and £2.50 labour 
I was magnanimous in tipping an extra £3
I was magnanimous in tipping an extra £3
FUBAR said:
The sports pipes on my car always go wonky. The last time I couldn't be arsed to drive it to Austec again and instead opted for the exhaust garage 2 miles from home. Within 10 minutes they had straightened the pipes, replaced a broken clamp (which apparently is why it kept slipping) and sent me on my way for a total cost of £1.49 for the clamp and £2.50 labour
I was magnanimous in tipping an extra £3
Yeah I agree, was going to drive 50 mile to my 'local' Indi to have them fitted but its 2 clamps and 2 rubber hangers (both of which I have bought a couple of spares anyway just in case they get broken when removing) so how hard can it be! Even arranged to be with them 30mins before they open so they can do it while I wait, drive it on the ramp etc. I was magnanimous in tipping an extra £3
Edited by PuffsBack on Wednesday 18th July 14:41
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