Diff bush removal tool
Discussion
It's diff bush time and having read the threads various it would seem people have had some success with a Cortina void diff puller such as
http://tvrcerbera.co.uk/Gallery/displayimage.php?a...
I have done a search for both the Britool SVB1 and Sykes Pickavant 660820 but no one seems to be selling them at the moment.
Can anyone suggest an alternative tool or does anyone have one I could borrow? I would like to keep the air chisel/big hammer option in reserve.
Cheers
Ed
http://tvrcerbera.co.uk/Gallery/displayimage.php?a...
I have done a search for both the Britool SVB1 and Sykes Pickavant 660820 but no one seems to be selling them at the moment.
Can anyone suggest an alternative tool or does anyone have one I could borrow? I would like to keep the air chisel/big hammer option in reserve.
Cheers
Ed
Don't bother with the puller - I snapped the M14 bolt on the Sykes Pickavant one without shifting the bush at all. Some people report success but all mine did was mangle the edge of the bush housing.
If I were doing it again I would go straight for a very long bar (with the end ground into a triangular chisel point) out through the wheel arch. Get the chisel point on the join between the bush and the housing, so the flat side of the triangle is against the housing and bray the other end with a sledgehammer. That will shift it in under 10 minutes, any other way you will be struggling for hours!
If I were doing it again I would go straight for a very long bar (with the end ground into a triangular chisel point) out through the wheel arch. Get the chisel point on the join between the bush and the housing, so the flat side of the triangle is against the housing and bray the other end with a sledgehammer. That will shift it in under 10 minutes, any other way you will be struggling for hours!
I did write up a 'how to' guide on changing the rear diff bush but never posted it up anywhere as it was not entirely completed.
Don't bother with the diff bush tool its more agro than its worth.
Here is an extract of what I wrote. It makes more sense with pics attached but hope this helps.
The GBH Method
1. Remove the wheel that is on the opposite side to the Brake line ‘T’ piece. (situated near the diff bush)
2. Lower the brake hub to its lowest point. You should now be able to see a clear line of sight to the Diff bush through the wheel arch.
3. Get a socket with a slightly smaller outside diameter as the bush to be removed. (I used part of my bush tool but a socket is just as good)
4. Place the socket over the bush on the same side as the wheel was removed and hold in place by use of a nut and bolt.
5. Using a length of hollow tube poke it through the wheel arch and over the nut and therefore onto the socket. (I used a piece of tubing from B&Q 20mm in diameter and 1mtr long with a 15mm nut over some studding also available from B&Q)
6. With the tube located now central over the socket and bush use a club hammer and strike the end of the tubing. The bush will start to move and fall out the other side. Be careful not to get carried away as the brake line ‘T’ piece is in a vulnerable position and could be damaged by the bush exiting through the chassis, so as the bush starts to move take more care.
Don't bother with the diff bush tool its more agro than its worth.
Here is an extract of what I wrote. It makes more sense with pics attached but hope this helps.
The GBH Method
1. Remove the wheel that is on the opposite side to the Brake line ‘T’ piece. (situated near the diff bush)
2. Lower the brake hub to its lowest point. You should now be able to see a clear line of sight to the Diff bush through the wheel arch.
3. Get a socket with a slightly smaller outside diameter as the bush to be removed. (I used part of my bush tool but a socket is just as good)
4. Place the socket over the bush on the same side as the wheel was removed and hold in place by use of a nut and bolt.
5. Using a length of hollow tube poke it through the wheel arch and over the nut and therefore onto the socket. (I used a piece of tubing from B&Q 20mm in diameter and 1mtr long with a 15mm nut over some studding also available from B&Q)
6. With the tube located now central over the socket and bush use a club hammer and strike the end of the tubing. The bush will start to move and fall out the other side. Be careful not to get carried away as the brake line ‘T’ piece is in a vulnerable position and could be damaged by the bush exiting through the chassis, so as the bush starts to move take more care.
h to shift!!!
Having done this job recently, I can confirm that the top bush is a real pig to remove. In the end I borrowed a tool from Colin at TVRSSW, which consisted of a couple of long extension bars with a socket the same diameter as the bush outer and a locating pin which goes through the bush centre. Similar to the tool Peter has made pictured above.
Lots of whacking with a sledge hammer shifted it in the end.
I did buy a secondhand Cortina void bush tool from eBay, but managed with the above method before it arrived, so never got the chance to try it.
You're welcome to try the void bush tool, I'm in Taunton, so not too far away, will happily post to you if you want.
When it comes to replacing with new, speak to Neil at ML performance parts, he sourced me powerflex bushes and the top one is split, which makes it a piece of cake to fit.
Lots of whacking with a sledge hammer shifted it in the end.
I did buy a secondhand Cortina void bush tool from eBay, but managed with the above method before it arrived, so never got the chance to try it.
You're welcome to try the void bush tool, I'm in Taunton, so not too far away, will happily post to you if you want.
When it comes to replacing with new, speak to Neil at ML performance parts, he sourced me powerflex bushes and the top one is split, which makes it a piece of cake to fit.
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