Converting to wasted spark. Where is the coil pack mounted?
Discussion
Alternatively the standard Rover coil packs are mounted either on the driver side of the block or directly on top of the cam cover (ie replace one ht lead each) http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_prod...
What pack are you using ?
What pack are you using ?
Incorrigible said:
Alternatively the standard Rover coil packs are mounted either on the driver side of the block or directly on top of the cam cover (ie replace one ht lead each) http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_prod...
What pack are you using ?
BenWhat pack are you using ?
Hi. Ford gen 1 (the one with the non flat base!)
DVandrews said:
The standard place for a non-OE coilpack is on the rear of the head. On the inlet side the bolts are only M5 so you may want to consider mounting on the rear of the exhaust cam if clearance is available as the holes are M8.
Dave
DaveDave
Sounds like a plan. If I recall correctly, I would need to make up a plate to bolt the coil pack to as there are only 2 (pre drilled) holes in the plate which cover the end of the exhaust cam?
Regarding the spigot in the end of the inlet cam which drives the rotor arm, is this just an interference fit? i.e. if I go wasted spark and remove the dizzy, I don't fancy a spigot whizzing round in the open air. How would you remove this in situ?
I mounted mine on the bulkhead for the following reasons:
1) I believe that heat and/or vibration is what killed the standard coil (I went through at least 3 before swapping to wasted spark)
2) some friends had brackets made up in aluminium to mount on the back of the head and over time these cracked and failed
3) all I had to do was drill 4 holes and fit 4 rivnuts
I had a set of custom leads made up by Magnecor (which you would probably have to do anyway).
I can post a picture this evening if it would help.
The spigot is an interference fit (but very tight on some) so shoudl be straightforward to remove.
1) I believe that heat and/or vibration is what killed the standard coil (I went through at least 3 before swapping to wasted spark)
2) some friends had brackets made up in aluminium to mount on the back of the head and over time these cracked and failed
3) all I had to do was drill 4 holes and fit 4 rivnuts
I had a set of custom leads made up by Magnecor (which you would probably have to do anyway).
I can post a picture this evening if it would help.
The spigot is an interference fit (but very tight on some) so shoudl be straightforward to remove.
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