S2 Clutch change

[winstong]

I've got the box to slide off the engine by about an inch, it's not keen on going any further. Plus, how do I get the Prop shaft off? I've downed tools for today after considering grinding off the fixed cross member under the back end of the prop shaft to let it fall out. There must be a way to do this job properly. Please advise before I cry or start chopping up the chassis! I've just done a body-off rebuild too! It'll be for sale when it's done too, need to get a deposit together for a house! The Mrs insists that a home is more important than toys! What does she know.

[Barry S1]

when i had mine done they had to drop the diff a bit to
get the prop out its a S1 but should be the same as yours i think
good luck

[Elfit]

When you get the prop shaft out add your photo to the gallery!

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...


Cheers

Tim

[phillpot]

Propshaft : remove the two front diff mounting bolts (the big vertical ones). front of diff will drop enough to let propshaft slide up past it until spline drops out of gearbox.

Gearbox: have a look around some of the websites/blogs on the useful links pages.

It's basically distributor cap and n/s rocker cover off, this allows engine to fall further back, gearbox should, just about, come out.
Re-fitting may be a little easier if you grind a little off some of the "webs" on the tail housing, this gives a bit more clearance around the cross member lugs on the chassis.

This is all information I gained from this forum after struggling my boks off (If you have Steve Heaths book ignore any info on gearbox removal, somehow he got it totally wrong) !

HTH

[winstong]

I dropped the front of the Diff and while hanging off it, the prop shaft squeezed over and is now out of the way. The removable crossmember mounts were still in the way. I had to grind them off, looks like someones had them off before! The box is out, the clutch is like new. I'm changing it all anyway, but this doesn't seem to be the problem. Is there anything else to check whilst its in bits?

[phillpot]

winstong said:

but this doesn't seem to be the problem.

You've not said what the problem was, clutch slip presumably?

If the disc looks ok perhaps the cover plate has lost its tension?

[Mintman]

TOP TIP,
Change the spigot bearing,it can be found in the center of the fly wheel.
If engageing reverse is your problem? it cured mine.

[winstong]

With the Clutch pedal to the floor, I still couldn't quite change gear. The piston was moving the arm through the whole of the length of the slot on the side of the Bellhousing. I then assumed the clutch assembly was playing up. The old looks different to the one I sourced from a TVR specialist, so I may have some luck. And the roller bearing in the middle of the flywheel appears to be spinning free and easy! I'll put it mostly back together and see if I have a bite point!

Thanks for the replies chaps, I've been taking pictures anyway and will try to upload them on to this site somewhere. I want to use this car before I have to sell it, I hope this fixes it!

[phillpot]

winstong said:

With the Clutch pedal to the floor, I still couldn't quite change gear. The piston was moving the arm through the whole of the length of the slot on the side of the Bellhousing.

Despite that still sounds like an issue with hydraulics or operating mechanism rather than the clutch itself (imho)

[Griffinr]

phillpot said:

Despite that still sounds like an issue with hydraulics or operating mechanism rather than the clutch itself (imho)

Where is the slave cylinder push rod located in the keyhole slot in the release arm? it should run in the inner large hole, but due to wear they often slide out to the outer end of the slot. This reduces the throw of the release arm and could lead to clutch drag.
Appologies if you have covered this already.

Rob.

Edited by Griffinr on Monday 23 July 09:57

[winstong]

I've reassembled it all and it has improved it. Rob, I'll have a look at that, see where it's sat. I'll quadruple check that it is moving the full distance of the bellhousing slot while it is on a ramp, I've re-bled it and I'll play with the adjustments tomorrow. I want a further improvement before I weld the chassis crossmember mounts back on!