Sag oil pressure at idle when really hot
Discussion
Just interested if anyone else gets an occasional flashed up 4psi warning of low oil pressure on days like today when idling stuck in traffic with air con etc. adding load. Tried changing the pressure relief valve spring but no difference. The oil is topped up to the max mark and can up the idle rpm a bit to stop it, but any ideas of the cause?
I get the same in my T350c.
I have a new alloy radiator and fan thermostats, but when stuck in a queue the water nudges 98C plus, the oil 85C plus. The oil pressure floats below 10psi when stationary.
Once moving, it quickly rises.
I checked with my dealer and all is OK.
I am pretty sure that your Sag is likely to be the same.
I have a new alloy radiator and fan thermostats, but when stuck in a queue the water nudges 98C plus, the oil 85C plus. The oil pressure floats below 10psi when stationary.
Once moving, it quickly rises.
I checked with my dealer and all is OK.
I am pretty sure that your Sag is likely to be the same.
Yup. My 3.6 would dip to 4.
Pressure is really low on idle. It's not great as a design but it is normal for these engines.
I believe the ones with the reworked oil ways have better pressure.
Mine on the new 4L engine never goes below 40 at idle now and is very constant when in use without the big swings.
Pressure is really low on idle. It's not great as a design but it is normal for these engines.
I believe the ones with the reworked oil ways have better pressure.
Mine on the new 4L engine never goes below 40 at idle now and is very constant when in use without the big swings.
DonkeyApple said:
Yup. My 3.6 would dip to 4.
Pressure is really low on idle. It's not great as a design but it is normal for these engines.
I believe the ones with the reworked oil ways have better pressure.
Mine on the new 4L engine never goes below 40 at idle now and is very constant when in use without the big swings.
I'm finding exactly the same.Pressure is really low on idle. It's not great as a design but it is normal for these engines.
I believe the ones with the reworked oil ways have better pressure.
Mine on the new 4L engine never goes below 40 at idle now and is very constant when in use without the big swings.
I'd be concerned that...
a) The car was idling to slowly.
b) The Sensor was reading incorrectly.
c) There was something wrong with the engine.
d) I had the wrong oil in it.
4 psi is not enough and will lead to long term damage unless the cause is b).
b) is most likely, d) is one that will bring an opinion from everyone that thinks they undertsand oil grades, but possibly dont.
a) The car was idling to slowly.
b) The Sensor was reading incorrectly.
c) There was something wrong with the engine.
d) I had the wrong oil in it.
4 psi is not enough and will lead to long term damage unless the cause is b).
b) is most likely, d) is one that will bring an opinion from everyone that thinks they undertsand oil grades, but possibly dont.
I agree with above - 4psi is too low.
I had similar on my T350 4 years ago and the cause was a worn bottom end bearing causing the low pressure - remedy a bottom end rebuild (fortunately under warranty from initial purchase of the car) so please get it checked out. It may well turn out to just be a sensor but play safe.
I had similar on my T350 4 years ago and the cause was a worn bottom end bearing causing the low pressure - remedy a bottom end rebuild (fortunately under warranty from initial purchase of the car) so please get it checked out. It may well turn out to just be a sensor but play safe.
Zippee said:
I agree with above - 4psi is too low.
I had similar on my T350 4 years ago and the cause was a worn bottom end bearing causing the low pressure - remedy a bottom end rebuild (fortunately under warranty from initial purchase of the car) so please get it checked out. It may well turn out to just be a sensor but play safe.
What is your engine rpm and oil pressure at really hot idle now? Thanks!I had similar on my T350 4 years ago and the cause was a worn bottom end bearing causing the low pressure - remedy a bottom end rebuild (fortunately under warranty from initial purchase of the car) so please get it checked out. It may well turn out to just be a sensor but play safe.
Interesting. Guessing idle without load would be about 1000rpm then for you? Not sure what the recommended idle rpm is, but my dealer sets it to ~850rpm which means with ACU and cooling fans on it can drop to 650/700 rpm.
Without wishing to start another debate on oil, just for the record what is everyone else using? Mine has Shell Helix Ultra 5W40.
Without wishing to start another debate on oil, just for the record what is everyone else using? Mine has Shell Helix Ultra 5W40.
Edited by Englishman on Thursday 26th July 09:59
Englishman said:
Interesting. Guessing idle without load would be about 1000rpm then for you? Not sure what the recommended idle rpm is, but my dealer sets it to ~850rpm which means with ACU and cooling fans on it can drop to 650/700 rpm.
Without wishing to start another debate on oil, just for the record what is everyone else using? Mine has Shell Helix Ultra 5W40.
I was using Shell Helix 10/40Without wishing to start another debate on oil, just for the record what is everyone else using? Mine has Shell Helix Ultra 5W40.
Edited by Englishman on Thursday 26th July 09:59
Cockey said:
I've been told not to be overly concerned at low figures at high temp as the sensor is not very accurate at low pressures.
Sensors have been known to be a tad fragile. In 8 years and 7 S6 engined cars, we have had to change 1, so they aren't "that" bad. 
I would be concerned enough to either change it or at least have a master gauge on the engine to check the actual pressure.
Suspect the person that advised not to be overly concerned at the low figs at high temps would not be overly concerned if you finished up with a 10K bill for a premature rebuild?

TVR_owner said:
Cockey said:
I've been told not to be overly concerned at low figures at high temp as the sensor is not very accurate at low pressures.
Sensors have been known to be a tad fragile. In 8 years and 7 S6 engined cars, we have had to change 1, so they aren't "that" bad. 
I would be concerned enough to either change it or at least have a master gauge on the engine to check the actual pressure.
Suspect the person that advised not to be overly concerned at the low figs at high temps would not be overly concerned if you finished up with a 10K bill for a premature rebuild?


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