Headlamps etc

[bens2]

Picked up a 420se last week. Its been my dream car for a long time and finaly i have one
Just wondering if anyone has any ideas on a couple of bits i have found?

1. When i pull the headlamp flash column stalk neither the headlamps of fogs flash. I believe that most wedges i have seen in the past flash the front fogs to save popping the headlamps up etc but i get nothing. The fogs work if the headlamps are on and i flick the switch on the dash for fogs. Does this mean that it could be the column stalk. (Bad connecting etc)

2. I have noticed that the heaters only blow warm air and not hot. I did notice that after it had cooled down from a run and i took the cap off the expansion tank that it "Burped" like mad. Guessing that i have a massive air lock somewhere, probably in the heater matrix. Any ideas on the best way to "burp" a wedge?

3. A very strange one. In my attempt to find the fault for the flashing lights i checked the fuse box which was eventually found at the back of the glove box. There was a 20amp fuse blown which according to the diagram was for the ignition coil? Can this be right if she starts and runs fine?

Thanks in advance, any info would be great

[Mr Tank]

Hi

So did you purchased Wyn car?

Did trying replacing the blown fuse?

If so did it blown again if not then try the headlights again! If it then blows the fuse then you have a short, which could be a simple problem like incorrect relay or a earth problem!

Andy

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Mate..I do believe only the fog/driving lamps flash and only when the light switch is in the off position..When the switch is in the first position the side lights and head lights come on although the headlights will be dimmed/low beam..Second position on the switch gives main beam..There are two white block resistors that control the dimming of the headlights which are normally placed front N/S in between the block and rad..they are bolted to the chassis..The bolt in the middle acts as an earth..Hopefully someone will be able to put a pic up as i have a 280...Making sure the contacts and earths are clean is a good start..Check fuses in the fuse board..
As far as bleeding the cooling system first make sure that everything is getting hot...The rad..The bottom hose coming from the water pump to the lower O/S fitting of rad..Do you have a thermostatically operated fan or is it on constant?..It could be a sticking thermostat if there is any cold spots on the hoses or rad..The thermostat could be a high opening setting like an 88 degree which ideally is better suited for winter which could make the water hotter than it needs to be..If everything is getting hot then wait until the system has cooled sufficiently and on level ground top up the swan neck and expansion tank..Turn on the heater to the hot position and on full speed then warm the car up and keep an eye on the temperature gauge and occaisionally feel if the heater is out-putting hotter air..Normally though if the coolant is being forced out then it is not pressurising but boiling which could indicate a leak somewhere in the system..Check for leaks..Hope this helps..Sorry dont know about the 20amp fuse....Ziga

[bens2]

Cheers for the replies.

Managed to fix the flashing fog lamps tonight It was a bad earth as suggested

Tried another fuse in the one that had blown (Marked up ignition coil) when i turned the ignition off the fuel pump and ignition stayed on Pulled the fuse and back to normal. Guess this one should be left out Strange thing i found from that is that the fuel pump is always on when the ignition is switched on so i guess this has been wired as a permanent live

Will try and burp it tomorrow to get heater matrix clear.

[Jack Valiant]

I have found the best way is to run the car to warm. Turn on heater blower and ensure that it is in the hot position. Check physical operation of the the water switch usually close the the engine side bulkhead. Run the car up onto ramps or jack up the front of the car as high as possible. Run the car on fast idle with the tank cap off. Check the top and bottom rad hoses for hot pipes and do the same for the two pipes going thru the bulkhead to the heater matrix and check the same action. Top up with coolant and repeat a couple of times if needed. Do not over fill as the RV8 likes to find its own level once all the air is out.

Good luck

Chris

[jmorgan]

I fitted a bleed valve for the heater matrix that seems to work. At your own risk and all that, but on the 400 the water pipes do this rise over the height (ish) of the engine and down to the heater. When I made the valve, it came to £1.20 in parts or thereabouts. Not sure if its suitable for other engine layouts and pipe feeds.