Discussion
Loads of threads on here, buyers guide on www.tipec.net under 944
tr7v8 said:
Loads of threads on here, buyers guide on www.tipec.net under 944
+1 - huge number of threads on here.In summary, check the usual maintenance record for belt replacements; check the sills for rust, can be expensive to fix properly; try and get one with a recent hood, again can be expensive to fix; watch for milky rear windows, could potentially crack when folding; as with all convertible, make sure it doesn't leak.
Beyond that, it's standard 944.
delays said:
+1 - huge number of threads on here.
In summary, check the usual maintenance record for belt replacements; check the sills for rust, can be expensive to fix properly; try and get one with a recent hood, again can be expensive to fix; watch for milky rear windows, could potentially crack when folding; as with all convertible, make sure it doesn't leak.
Beyond that, it's standard 944.
Again +1 - Dad used to have one before moving onto the Boxster S - I you have any questions message us In summary, check the usual maintenance record for belt replacements; check the sills for rust, can be expensive to fix properly; try and get one with a recent hood, again can be expensive to fix; watch for milky rear windows, could potentially crack when folding; as with all convertible, make sure it doesn't leak.
Beyond that, it's standard 944.

There's also the PCGB forum as well, with around a thousand 944 owners. We used to recommend both Tipec and PCGB forums jointly, but Tipec don't seem to do that any more?
Maybe I'm just being grumpy tonight. Join both forums, they are both free to non-members and both have a wealth of advice.
Maybe I'm just being grumpy tonight. Join both forums, they are both free to non-members and both have a wealth of advice.
G P If you never driven a 944 cab you may find that scuttle shake can be a bit annoying, especially over rough B roads.
I owned one for 3 years having bought it from Hartech and it is a great car.
It does not handle as well as the 944 coupe but it's enough to give you a smile on your face.
I traded up to a 993 but I still miss the 944.
You will not be disapointed with the cabby, but make sure you buy on condition, and remember an extra thousand pounds paid for a good car now will save you thousands in the future.
I hope this helps
Steady Eddie
I owned one for 3 years having bought it from Hartech and it is a great car.
It does not handle as well as the 944 coupe but it's enough to give you a smile on your face.
I traded up to a 993 but I still miss the 944.
You will not be disapointed with the cabby, but make sure you buy on condition, and remember an extra thousand pounds paid for a good car now will save you thousands in the future.
I hope this helps
Steady Eddie
blade7 said:
I like to wind up S2 fanciers by telling how the turbo is the ultimate 944, and although a turbo cab has the straightline grunt, in real terms an S2 cab for half the price makes more sense to me, so I'd pick an S2 over a turbo. Just this once
.
It's a lovely engine though, the 3.0, and lovely balance means it's very, very nice to drive and slide around. I had one for a couple of years back in 1996/7 - I remember it had the original invoice, where someone had paid £42K in 1989 for it - unbelievable.
.I really liked mine, even if it was a bit hairdresser - white w/ white leather seats. Then it leaked water through a vent onto the future MrsRacer's handbag and it's days were numbered. I've had to wait for 15 years, 1 marriage, 2 kids and two house moves to get another piece of Pork.
I went and drove one today that I have been offered through a friend and I need some help to make a descion.
Good Points;
Just had the head gasket and belts done.
Full Service History and lots of it.
85k miles.
MOT May.
Roof has no leaks or tears.
It is cheap!
Bad Points;
Body work is tatty with small surface rust on one sill.
It has not been polished for a long time.
The electric roof is not working but it’s not a big issue as I can put it down manually.
Fuel lines are rusty near rear axle.
Inside is a little tatty.
THE BIG CONCERN is when you come off the throttle it feels like the gearbox/drive train has some slack and there is some noise at this point. Any Ideas?
Good Points;
Just had the head gasket and belts done.
Full Service History and lots of it.
85k miles.
MOT May.
Roof has no leaks or tears.
It is cheap!
Bad Points;
Body work is tatty with small surface rust on one sill.
It has not been polished for a long time.
The electric roof is not working but it’s not a big issue as I can put it down manually.
Fuel lines are rusty near rear axle.
Inside is a little tatty.
THE BIG CONCERN is when you come off the throttle it feels like the gearbox/drive train has some slack and there is some noise at this point. Any Ideas?
G-P said:
I went and drove one today that I have been offered through a friend and I need some help to make a descion.
Good Points;
Just had the head gasket and belts done.
Full Service History and lots of it.
85k miles.
MOT May.
Roof has no leaks or tears.
It is cheap!
Bad Points;
Body work is tatty with small surface rust on one sill.
It has not been polished for a long time.
The electric roof is not working but it’s not a big issue as I can put it down manually.
Fuel lines are rusty near rear axle.
Inside is a little tatty.
THE BIG CONCERN is when you come off the throttle it feels like the gearbox/drive train has some slack and there is some noise at this point. Any Ideas?
Its NOT going to be cheap with all of that to remedy. Plenty out there - discard and move on.Good Points;
Just had the head gasket and belts done.
Full Service History and lots of it.
85k miles.
MOT May.
Roof has no leaks or tears.
It is cheap!
Bad Points;
Body work is tatty with small surface rust on one sill.
It has not been polished for a long time.
The electric roof is not working but it’s not a big issue as I can put it down manually.
Fuel lines are rusty near rear axle.
Inside is a little tatty.
THE BIG CONCERN is when you come off the throttle it feels like the gearbox/drive train has some slack and there is some noise at this point. Any Ideas?
xftdr said:
Its NOT going to be cheap with all of that to remedy. Plenty out there - discard and move on.
Two points of view to this - and I've had both whilst looking for a Lux 2.5.One - you can't "polish" or "replace" service history off the shelf. If its a solid, tight history and shows its been looked after, then it's a huge weight off your mind.
However, the sills would worry me - are you sure it's just surface rust?
And the drive issue could be anything in the drive train - bearings, a loose torque tube etc. Someone more mech minded will be better placed to answer this!
delays said:
..you can't "polish" or "replace" service history off the shelf. If its a solid, tight history and shows its been looked after, then it's a huge weight off your mind.
Unless one's paying a huge premium for the "provenance", all the paperwork in the world won't solve these issues:delays said:
However, the sills would worry me - are you sure it's just surface rust?
And the drive issue could be anything in the drive train - bearings, a loose torque tube etc. Someone more mech minded will be better placed to answer this!
To the OP - the issues you mention aren't insurmountable but they may make a dearer car look like a better proposition. Hard to tell without a bit more information regarding price (and to a limited extent, mileage and owners, as sadly the market values these higher than it should for such old cars).And the drive issue could be anything in the drive train - bearings, a loose torque tube etc. Someone more mech minded will be better placed to answer this!
xftdr said:
G-P said:
I went and drove one today that I have been offered through a friend and I need some help to make a descion.
Good Points;
Just had the head gasket and belts done.
Full Service History and lots of it.
85k miles.
MOT May.
Roof has no leaks or tears.
It is cheap!
Bad Points;
Body work is tatty with small surface rust on one sill.
It has not been polished for a long time.
The electric roof is not working but it’s not a big issue as I can put it down manually.
Fuel lines are rusty near rear axle.
Inside is a little tatty.
THE BIG CONCERN is when you come off the throttle it feels like the gearbox/drive train has some slack and there is some noise at this point. Any Ideas?
Its NOT going to be cheap with all of that to remedy. Plenty out there - discard and move on.Good Points;
Just had the head gasket and belts done.
Full Service History and lots of it.
85k miles.
MOT May.
Roof has no leaks or tears.
It is cheap!
Bad Points;
Body work is tatty with small surface rust on one sill.
It has not been polished for a long time.
The electric roof is not working but it’s not a big issue as I can put it down manually.
Fuel lines are rusty near rear axle.
Inside is a little tatty.
THE BIG CONCERN is when you come off the throttle it feels like the gearbox/drive train has some slack and there is some noise at this point. Any Ideas?
Fuel lines can be fixed relatively cheaply, few pices of hose & clipe up to proper flex all the way through.
Roof is a PITA but probably gears or maybe interlock switch.
The sills are the biggest concern a little rust spot could turn out to be a lot worse if probed!
This is what I am thinking.
I dont need the bodywork/interior to be perfect as I want to use it at weekends and not worry about it.
The roof is no issue as it can be done very quickly by hand.
Rust is rust unless I spend 8k+ they are all going to have some.
The gearbox/drive train is the biggest worry.
I dont need the bodywork/interior to be perfect as I want to use it at weekends and not worry about it.
The roof is no issue as it can be done very quickly by hand.
Rust is rust unless I spend 8k+ they are all going to have some.
The gearbox/drive train is the biggest worry.
The rubber cush drive on the back of the clutch disc can shear giving backlash in the drive train. New clutch needed but also can be diff wear or cv joint wear although my monies on the former. If you can get under it remove the inspection cover in front of the gearbox, grab the shaft which should be solid and not rotate. If it does then rubber broke. Too many innuendoes !
Grant
Grant
If it was a rubber centred clutch failure then Id expect it to clonk. If it simply becomes noisier when you back off the throttle then itll be differential bearing wear.
Not uncommon and some cars sufffer moe than others and earlier than others. This doesnt make it any easier to live with though.
Not uncommon and some cars sufffer moe than others and earlier than others. This doesnt make it any easier to live with though.
I managed to get the chance to have a good look under the car and to my suprise its not too bad at all. Had a mechanic friend look at it and he thinks the noise is more like a gearbox mount. Anyway had a good feeling about the car so I bought it, picking it up tomorrow. Wish me luck!
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