Changing Brake Pads - advice please
Discussion
Right, after recent woes, I'm going to bite the bullet and change my Cayman's brake pads myself. I haven't done any car mechanics stuff before, so I have a few questions and I'd appreciate some forum advice.
1) Where is the best place to buy OEM parts ?
2) Where can I find a reliable description of process ?
3) I have seen some vids but they seem to leave out some parts e.g. Anti squeal pads and pad sensors (which I understand can be fragile)
4) General tips
Appreciate thoughts from those in the know
Regards
Guy
1) Where is the best place to buy OEM parts ?
2) Where can I find a reliable description of process ?
3) I have seen some vids but they seem to leave out some parts e.g. Anti squeal pads and pad sensors (which I understand can be fragile)
4) General tips
Appreciate thoughts from those in the know
Regards
Guy
1: Design911 or PorscheShop, buy the cheapest ones you can get from these ources as they are all at least OEM quality or better
2: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/brak...
3: anti squeel pads come in the kit if you buy them from Porsche shop. They are essential but there really is only one way to fit them it's obvious - they have little cylinders that come out of them that fit into the calipers, you remove the sticky back plastic backing and the brake pads stic to them - it's 100% obvious as you do the job. You can reuse the old wear sensors if they havn't been set off but you're better off with new ones as the old ones often fall apart as you take them off, they are not a robust part and you wouldn't want to change the brakes & then for a sensor to fail later
4: you'll almost certainly need an impact driver (c. £15 from Halfords) to get the brake disc screws off, and obviously a torque wrench so you can torque the nuts up to the right tightness. If it's your only car, make sure u have the right tools before you take the wheels off!!! Take your time and enjoy doing it, it is not difficult and is a rewarding job, that saves a few £100
2: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/brak...
3: anti squeel pads come in the kit if you buy them from Porsche shop. They are essential but there really is only one way to fit them it's obvious - they have little cylinders that come out of them that fit into the calipers, you remove the sticky back plastic backing and the brake pads stic to them - it's 100% obvious as you do the job. You can reuse the old wear sensors if they havn't been set off but you're better off with new ones as the old ones often fall apart as you take them off, they are not a robust part and you wouldn't want to change the brakes & then for a sensor to fail later
4: you'll almost certainly need an impact driver (c. £15 from Halfords) to get the brake disc screws off, and obviously a torque wrench so you can torque the nuts up to the right tightness. If it's your only car, make sure u have the right tools before you take the wheels off!!! Take your time and enjoy doing it, it is not difficult and is a rewarding job, that saves a few £100
I changed my pads and discs all round on my 996. It's a straight forward job. To get the caliper bolts undone it's a hexagon allen key type tool you'll need. You should replace these bolts rather than use them again and the replacements will probably require a star bolt type tool. Top tip, there are several step by step videos on you tube which are well worth watching. You only need an impact jobbie if you are removing discs - in fact the screws on mine undid without drama. Check to see what wear there is on your discs. If there's a biggish lip you might want to change the discs while you are down there. Don't forgtet, the rear discs have drums withinh them to accomodate the handbrake shoes. You wll need to de-adjust (is that a word) the shoes to get the rear discs off, but if you watch the you tube clipsit showsit all. Good luck it is a satisfying job
If you have a good OPC they can sometimes offer decent discounts. Alternatively try Eurocarparts as they can have upto 25% discount off brake parts if you time it right & also do free delivery as well. A friend bought new OEM discs & pads for under £200 last year as an example for his 996. They also sell Pagid stuff as well if you want to upgrade 
You won't need to touch the caliper bolts if just doing the pads. I have to say for a 30-40 minute job I'd use a specialist (who should be able to match the best price you can buy the parts for and still make himself a margin on them), especially as you're not to mechanically experienced. They're not difficult to do, but think of the risk you're taking if you don't get it right and all for what, £30-£40 labour.
It's a job I'm quite capable of doing myself and used to remove, check and replace the pads after every 20-30 minutes or so on track in my race car, but as a one-off job on a road car I'd rather pay a specialist - if they supply the parts too then the job's guaranteed, and there's the added benefit their experienced eye will check or notice anything else amiss (e.g. worn flexi's etc), you'll also gain some goodwill should you need a favour in future.... and you get to keep your hands clean.
It's a job I'm quite capable of doing myself and used to remove, check and replace the pads after every 20-30 minutes or so on track in my race car, but as a one-off job on a road car I'd rather pay a specialist - if they supply the parts too then the job's guaranteed, and there's the added benefit their experienced eye will check or notice anything else amiss (e.g. worn flexi's etc), you'll also gain some goodwill should you need a favour in future.... and you get to keep your hands clean.
mollytherocker said:
You say that you 'have not done any car mechanics before'?
Do you have a 'handy' friend who could help you? I think this is the way forward if you are keen.
This is a high speed car and you are messing with the brakes.....
MTR
High speed or not, any car with no brakes is bad news!Do you have a 'handy' friend who could help you? I think this is the way forward if you are keen.
This is a high speed car and you are messing with the brakes.....
MTR
Mine were changed, last week in an hour (rear pads).
No drama, no surprises and surprisingly easy. Wear sensors were in good condition so were not replaced.
I bought some pagid pads from ECP during their 31% off offer. £38 all in compared to £156 from OPC or £240 fitted!
There is a lot of people on here who either haven't read the OPs post or shouldn't be giving advice as they haven't the foggiest.
It's not a hard job on any Porsche, you will only need basic tools and some means of pushing the pistons back in to the caliper, I make that point as you may not have a g clamp or similar but a crowbar or big screwdriver works fine with care.
You don't need to remove the caliper or need an impact driver to remove the disc as you won't be removing the disc.
Before starting check your brake fluid level, if you have topped it right up and have badly worn pads then pushing the pistons back in may make it overflow. If this is the case suck some out with a syringe or similar. I find a rag round the reservoir worthwhile if you think it may overflow.
Quite simply knock the pins out (or on some Porsche calipers squeeze the pad retaining clip together) and lever the old pads out. You can make do with the old anti squeal shims but I'm tight and don't mind squealing brakes if they don't work again, for the cost you would be daft not spend the money. Peel the shims and fit in to the pistons.
The Pad wear sensors are fragile and break easily, but if you get it out in one piece it won't break later, they are either broken or not. Even if by some freak it did they are easy to change without removing the pads. Fit the sensors to the new pads, then fit the pads.
Put the pins/clamp back in place and then bed the pads in.
It's not a hard job on any Porsche, you will only need basic tools and some means of pushing the pistons back in to the caliper, I make that point as you may not have a g clamp or similar but a crowbar or big screwdriver works fine with care.
You don't need to remove the caliper or need an impact driver to remove the disc as you won't be removing the disc.
Before starting check your brake fluid level, if you have topped it right up and have badly worn pads then pushing the pistons back in may make it overflow. If this is the case suck some out with a syringe or similar. I find a rag round the reservoir worthwhile if you think it may overflow.
Quite simply knock the pins out (or on some Porsche calipers squeeze the pad retaining clip together) and lever the old pads out. You can make do with the old anti squeal shims but I'm tight and don't mind squealing brakes if they don't work again, for the cost you would be daft not spend the money. Peel the shims and fit in to the pistons.
The Pad wear sensors are fragile and break easily, but if you get it out in one piece it won't break later, they are either broken or not. Even if by some freak it did they are easy to change without removing the pads. Fit the sensors to the new pads, then fit the pads.
Put the pins/clamp back in place and then bed the pads in.
wildoliver said:
Quite simply knock the pins out (or on some Porsche calipers squeeze the pad retaining clip together) and lever the old pads out. You can make do with the old anti squeal shims but I'm tight and don't mind squealing brakes if they don't work again, for the cost you would be daft not spend the money. Peel the shims and fit in to the pistons.
also make sure you take the little clip out of the pin before you knock it out This is how it went for me.......
Start to remove caliper bolts but they gradually tighten up (Ali seized onto Steel threads)
When bolt removed with massive effort, internal Ali threads are seen to be damaged.
Scenario happened on 75% of bolts.
Only safe option is to drill out and put in TimeSert thread repairers or helicoils. Usually 50 pounds cost per bolt, so 8 at risk.
Of course you could clean off the bolt and rebuild but that's not going to be safe, especially if you can't get up to full torque without the feel going plastic.
!!! Leave the caliper on and sever the bonds between the shims and pads!
Start to remove caliper bolts but they gradually tighten up (Ali seized onto Steel threads)
When bolt removed with massive effort, internal Ali threads are seen to be damaged.
Scenario happened on 75% of bolts.
Only safe option is to drill out and put in TimeSert thread repairers or helicoils. Usually 50 pounds cost per bolt, so 8 at risk.
Of course you could clean off the bolt and rebuild but that's not going to be safe, especially if you can't get up to full torque without the feel going plastic.
!!! Leave the caliper on and sever the bonds between the shims and pads!
Gassing Station | Porsche General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff