Help me take some awesome Red Arrows photos!
Discussion
Later this month we're hoping to go down to Dartmouth to see the Red Arrows.
I plan on getting up on the hill above Dartmouth which I think will put me close to the level they do some of their low level passes. I'll be using my Nikon D7000 and my new Nikon AF-S VR 70-300 f/4.5-5.6G IF-ED lens.
What I'd appreciate is some pointers to get the most out of a fairly short opportunity. Shutter speeds, aperture, should I leave the VR on? Spot metering or matrix? Spot focus?
And as well as the purely mechanical stuff, good techniques, hints, tips and so forth.
And if you would like to add a few aircraft shots of your own (especially, but not necessarily, Red Arrows) as examples or inspiration then I'd love to see them.
Appreciate all your help with this, really would love to try and get a few cracking shots.
I plan on getting up on the hill above Dartmouth which I think will put me close to the level they do some of their low level passes. I'll be using my Nikon D7000 and my new Nikon AF-S VR 70-300 f/4.5-5.6G IF-ED lens.
What I'd appreciate is some pointers to get the most out of a fairly short opportunity. Shutter speeds, aperture, should I leave the VR on? Spot metering or matrix? Spot focus?
And as well as the purely mechanical stuff, good techniques, hints, tips and so forth.
And if you would like to add a few aircraft shots of your own (especially, but not necessarily, Red Arrows) as examples or inspiration then I'd love to see them.
Appreciate all your help with this, really would love to try and get a few cracking shots.
I took a few pix in Falmouth and fowey last year just before the unfortunate accident.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/etclarke/sets/7215762...
I would say the key thing is to get your camera working at maximum, so turn off any image stabilisers etc. you may even want to reduce image quality so that there is less buffer time as well.
Other than that take as much as you can! Enjoy
http://www.flickr.com/photos/etclarke/sets/7215762...
I would say the key thing is to get your camera working at maximum, so turn off any image stabilisers etc. you may even want to reduce image quality so that there is less buffer time as well.
Other than that take as much as you can! Enjoy
You'll probably be doing panning shots as they fly past so there shouldn't be any neeed for VR. Just choose a shutter speed that allows you to keep the plane steady and motion blur the background. Work it like a golf swing or clay pigeon shooting.
The biggest issue is probably exposure, as often you have a relatively dark subject against a much brighter sky. If that's the case, remember you're after the aeroplane, so you could consider either +EV or spot metering (if you can keep the chosen focus spot on the subject).
The biggest issue is probably exposure, as often you have a relatively dark subject against a much brighter sky. If that's the case, remember you're after the aeroplane, so you could consider either +EV or spot metering (if you can keep the chosen focus spot on the subject).
ed1983 said:
I took a few pix in Falmouth and fowey last year just before the unfortunate accident.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/etclarke/sets/7215762...
I would say the key thing is to get your camera working at maximum, so turn off any image stabilisers etc. you may even want to reduce image quality so that there is less buffer time as well.
Other than that take as much as you can! Enjoy
Some great shots there, thank you! http://www.flickr.com/photos/etclarke/sets/7215762...
I would say the key thing is to get your camera working at maximum, so turn off any image stabilisers etc. you may even want to reduce image quality so that there is less buffer time as well.
Other than that take as much as you can! Enjoy
Looks like the seagulls were going nuts too!
Simpo Two said:
You'll probably be doing panning shots as they fly past so there shouldn't be any neeed for VR. Just choose a shutter speed that allows you to keep the plane steady and motion blur the background. Work it like a golf swing or clay pigeon shooting.
The biggest issue is probably exposure, as often you have a relatively dark subject against a much brighter sky. If that's the case, remember you're after the aeroplane, so you could consider either +EV or spot metering (if you can keep the chosen focus spot on the subject).
Yup, it's setting the camera up to focus and get the correct exposure that's most concerning me, especially as I won't have long to get it right. The biggest issue is probably exposure, as often you have a relatively dark subject against a much brighter sky. If that's the case, remember you're after the aeroplane, so you could consider either +EV or spot metering (if you can keep the chosen focus spot on the subject).
Ari said:
Wow, some great shots there, and useful advice too, thank you.
These were taken at Dunsfold back in 2008, first time I'd shot at an airshow so was pretty happy with the results.I seem to recall just firing away almost at random, no attempt to frame a specific shot, they move to quickly for my abilities
As has been said, set the camera up for quickness so think about dropping the quality, using your best memory card and perhaps shoot in JPG instead of RAW.
Take as many as you can and somewhere will within there will be the shot that makes us all go 'Ahhhh'.
First off, shoot in RAW. You'll be able to recovered an image much easier that way than you would with a JPEG. I'm not sure what the FPS is on a D7000 but on my D300s I limit it to 4-5 FPS any quicker than that and I find I don't get as many keepers.
Instead of explaining settings etc if you click on these images it will take you to my flickr page where you can see all the EXIF data and how the camera was set-up..
Red Arrows Singleton by lloydh.co.uk, on Flickr
Smoke On! by lloydh.co.uk, on Flickr
Reds With Streamers by lloydh.co.uk, on Flickr
Instead of explaining settings etc if you click on these images it will take you to my flickr page where you can see all the EXIF data and how the camera was set-up..
Red Arrows Singleton by lloydh.co.uk, on Flickr
Smoke On! by lloydh.co.uk, on Flickr
Reds With Streamers by lloydh.co.uk, on Flickr
There's some stunningly bad advice on this thread. Turn off your image stabiliser?! Use low quality rather than the best your camera can do? Photography isn't about "spray and pray" and picking the least crap shot out of acres and acres of crap. If you've got a fast camera then fine, use it, but "Remember, short controlled bursts" man...
RAW or JPEG is a personal choice - if you want to be able to have a little more exposure latitude to rescue an under/overexposed shot then go RAW, otherwise I wouldn't bother.
The D7000 is a fine camera, but doesn't have a great buffer, so don't try and use it like a machine gun - pick your opportunities instead. The Reds routine produces no end of good photo opportunities that will be obvious when they happen so the best bit of advice you can have is LOOK - don't spend your time playing back photos on the back of your camera like a chimp inspecting his own crap. The occasional check to make sure your settings aren't producing total disasters is all you need.
For the formation passes there's little point in slower shutter speeds so shoot aperture priority (wide open or stopped down a little), ISO to suit the conditions (200 should be fine on a sunny day, go higher if you need to) and let the camera handle exposure. The D7000 can overexpose in bright conditions so be prepared to dial in a little negative exposure compensation. Matrix or centre-weighted metering will work fine - I'd avoid spot as it'll be very hit and miss on the exposure as highlights come and go in its metering area. In terms of focusing I tend to use centre spot only though for zoomed out formation stuff it's better to use as many focus points as you can.
For the synchro pair, if you are positioned approximately crowd centre the classic crossing shot is worth trying for. In which case, a slower shutter speed (shutter priority mode and pick something low(ish) - say 1/200) will keep the one you follow sharp (if you can pan ok!) while the other jet is a streak in the background. The trick is shooting at the right moment, for which only practice will help, but you also need to pick the right jet - one is closer to the crowd and you want to follow that one. Lots of people spray and pray for this, and rarely get a good result. You probably can't react close enough to spot the cross happening in the viewfinder *and* get the shot off so one eye on the action and one eye through the viewfinder and just take a couple of shots (CH mode on the lower dial) in succession when you think they are about to cross.
RAW or JPEG is a personal choice - if you want to be able to have a little more exposure latitude to rescue an under/overexposed shot then go RAW, otherwise I wouldn't bother.
The D7000 is a fine camera, but doesn't have a great buffer, so don't try and use it like a machine gun - pick your opportunities instead. The Reds routine produces no end of good photo opportunities that will be obvious when they happen so the best bit of advice you can have is LOOK - don't spend your time playing back photos on the back of your camera like a chimp inspecting his own crap. The occasional check to make sure your settings aren't producing total disasters is all you need.
For the formation passes there's little point in slower shutter speeds so shoot aperture priority (wide open or stopped down a little), ISO to suit the conditions (200 should be fine on a sunny day, go higher if you need to) and let the camera handle exposure. The D7000 can overexpose in bright conditions so be prepared to dial in a little negative exposure compensation. Matrix or centre-weighted metering will work fine - I'd avoid spot as it'll be very hit and miss on the exposure as highlights come and go in its metering area. In terms of focusing I tend to use centre spot only though for zoomed out formation stuff it's better to use as many focus points as you can.
For the synchro pair, if you are positioned approximately crowd centre the classic crossing shot is worth trying for. In which case, a slower shutter speed (shutter priority mode and pick something low(ish) - say 1/200) will keep the one you follow sharp (if you can pan ok!) while the other jet is a streak in the background. The trick is shooting at the right moment, for which only practice will help, but you also need to pick the right jet - one is closer to the crowd and you want to follow that one. Lots of people spray and pray for this, and rarely get a good result. You probably can't react close enough to spot the cross happening in the viewfinder *and* get the shot off so one eye on the action and one eye through the viewfinder and just take a couple of shots (CH mode on the lower dial) in succession when you think they are about to cross.
DamienB said:
There's some stunningly bad advice on this thread. Turn off your image stabiliser?! Use low quality rather than the best your camera can do? Photography isn't about "spray and pray" and picking the least crap shot out of acres and acres of crap. If you've got a fast camera then fine, use it, but "Remember, short controlled bursts" man...
RAW or JPEG is a personal choice - if you want to be able to have a little more exposure latitude to rescue an under/overexposed shot then go RAW, otherwise I wouldn't bother.
The D7000 is a fine camera, but doesn't have a great buffer, so don't try and use it like a machine gun - pick your opportunities instead. The Reds routine produces no end of good photo opportunities that will be obvious when they happen so the best bit of advice you can have is LOOK - don't spend your time playing back photos on the back of your camera like a chimp inspecting his own crap. The occasional check to make sure your settings aren't producing total disasters is all you need.
For the formation passes there's little point in slower shutter speeds so shoot aperture priority (wide open or stopped down a little), ISO to suit the conditions (200 should be fine on a sunny day, go higher if you need to) and let the camera handle exposure. The D7000 can overexpose in bright conditions so be prepared to dial in a little negative exposure compensation. Matrix or centre-weighted metering will work fine - I'd avoid spot as it'll be very hit and miss on the exposure as highlights come and go in its metering area. In terms of focusing I tend to use centre spot only though for zoomed out formation stuff it's better to use as many focus points as you can.
For the synchro pair, if you are positioned approximately crowd centre the classic crossing shot is worth trying for. In which case, a slower shutter speed (shutter priority mode and pick something low(ish) - say 1/200) will keep the one you follow sharp (if you can pan ok!) while the other jet is a streak in the background. The trick is shooting at the right moment, for which only practice will help, but you also need to pick the right jet - one is closer to the crowd and you want to follow that one. Lots of people spray and pray for this, and rarely get a good result. You probably can't react close enough to spot the cross happening in the viewfinder *and* get the shot off so one eye on the action and one eye through the viewfinder and just take a couple of shots (CH mode on the lower dial) in succession when you think they are about to cross.
Some great advice there, many thanks! RAW or JPEG is a personal choice - if you want to be able to have a little more exposure latitude to rescue an under/overexposed shot then go RAW, otherwise I wouldn't bother.
The D7000 is a fine camera, but doesn't have a great buffer, so don't try and use it like a machine gun - pick your opportunities instead. The Reds routine produces no end of good photo opportunities that will be obvious when they happen so the best bit of advice you can have is LOOK - don't spend your time playing back photos on the back of your camera like a chimp inspecting his own crap. The occasional check to make sure your settings aren't producing total disasters is all you need.
For the formation passes there's little point in slower shutter speeds so shoot aperture priority (wide open or stopped down a little), ISO to suit the conditions (200 should be fine on a sunny day, go higher if you need to) and let the camera handle exposure. The D7000 can overexpose in bright conditions so be prepared to dial in a little negative exposure compensation. Matrix or centre-weighted metering will work fine - I'd avoid spot as it'll be very hit and miss on the exposure as highlights come and go in its metering area. In terms of focusing I tend to use centre spot only though for zoomed out formation stuff it's better to use as many focus points as you can.
For the synchro pair, if you are positioned approximately crowd centre the classic crossing shot is worth trying for. In which case, a slower shutter speed (shutter priority mode and pick something low(ish) - say 1/200) will keep the one you follow sharp (if you can pan ok!) while the other jet is a streak in the background. The trick is shooting at the right moment, for which only practice will help, but you also need to pick the right jet - one is closer to the crowd and you want to follow that one. Lots of people spray and pray for this, and rarely get a good result. You probably can't react close enough to spot the cross happening in the viewfinder *and* get the shot off so one eye on the action and one eye through the viewfinder and just take a couple of shots (CH mode on the lower dial) in succession when you think they are about to cross.
Ari said:
DamienB said:
There's some stunningly bad advice on this thread. Turn off your image stabiliser?! Use low quality rather than the best your camera can do? Photography isn't about "spray and pray" and picking the least crap shot out of acres and acres of crap. If you've got a fast camera then fine, use it, but "Remember, short controlled bursts" man...
RAW or JPEG is a personal choice - if you want to be able to have a little more exposure latitude to rescue an under/overexposed shot then go RAW, otherwise I wouldn't bother.
The D7000 is a fine camera, but doesn't have a great buffer, so don't try and use it like a machine gun - pick your opportunities instead. The Reds routine produces no end of good photo opportunities that will be obvious when they happen so the best bit of advice you can have is LOOK - don't spend your time playing back photos on the back of your camera like a chimp inspecting his own crap. The occasional check to make sure your settings aren't producing total disasters is all you need.
For the formation passes there's little point in slower shutter speeds so shoot aperture priority (wide open or stopped down a little), ISO to suit the conditions (200 should be fine on a sunny day, go higher if you need to) and let the camera handle exposure. The D7000 can overexpose in bright conditions so be prepared to dial in a little negative exposure compensation. Matrix or centre-weighted metering will work fine - I'd avoid spot as it'll be very hit and miss on the exposure as highlights come and go in its metering area. In terms of focusing I tend to use centre spot only though for zoomed out formation stuff it's better to use as many focus points as you can.
For the synchro pair, if you are positioned approximately crowd centre the classic crossing shot is worth trying for. In which case, a slower shutter speed (shutter priority mode and pick something low(ish) - say 1/200) will keep the one you follow sharp (if you can pan ok!) while the other jet is a streak in the background. The trick is shooting at the right moment, for which only practice will help, but you also need to pick the right jet - one is closer to the crowd and you want to follow that one. Lots of people spray and pray for this, and rarely get a good result. You probably can't react close enough to spot the cross happening in the viewfinder *and* get the shot off so one eye on the action and one eye through the viewfinder and just take a couple of shots (CH mode on the lower dial) in succession when you think they are about to cross.
Some great advice there, many thanks! RAW or JPEG is a personal choice - if you want to be able to have a little more exposure latitude to rescue an under/overexposed shot then go RAW, otherwise I wouldn't bother.
The D7000 is a fine camera, but doesn't have a great buffer, so don't try and use it like a machine gun - pick your opportunities instead. The Reds routine produces no end of good photo opportunities that will be obvious when they happen so the best bit of advice you can have is LOOK - don't spend your time playing back photos on the back of your camera like a chimp inspecting his own crap. The occasional check to make sure your settings aren't producing total disasters is all you need.
For the formation passes there's little point in slower shutter speeds so shoot aperture priority (wide open or stopped down a little), ISO to suit the conditions (200 should be fine on a sunny day, go higher if you need to) and let the camera handle exposure. The D7000 can overexpose in bright conditions so be prepared to dial in a little negative exposure compensation. Matrix or centre-weighted metering will work fine - I'd avoid spot as it'll be very hit and miss on the exposure as highlights come and go in its metering area. In terms of focusing I tend to use centre spot only though for zoomed out formation stuff it's better to use as many focus points as you can.
For the synchro pair, if you are positioned approximately crowd centre the classic crossing shot is worth trying for. In which case, a slower shutter speed (shutter priority mode and pick something low(ish) - say 1/200) will keep the one you follow sharp (if you can pan ok!) while the other jet is a streak in the background. The trick is shooting at the right moment, for which only practice will help, but you also need to pick the right jet - one is closer to the crowd and you want to follow that one. Lots of people spray and pray for this, and rarely get a good result. You probably can't react close enough to spot the cross happening in the viewfinder *and* get the shot off so one eye on the action and one eye through the viewfinder and just take a couple of shots (CH mode on the lower dial) in succession when you think they are about to cross.
For the synchro I'd use a shutter of 1/800th if possible with the light.
Good advise from Damien - and lets face it we all know how good (and profitable) he is.
Regarding the shutter speed for the syncrho pair, this is more a matter of personal choice with respect to the final image you want. If your happy to have one in focus and the other a blur, then fine use a slow shutter speed. My personal choice for the image I want is for both aircraft to be in as good a focus as possible which is why I choose to use a high shutter speed - anything up to 1/4000th.
Regarding the shutter speed for the syncrho pair, this is more a matter of personal choice with respect to the final image you want. If your happy to have one in focus and the other a blur, then fine use a slow shutter speed. My personal choice for the image I want is for both aircraft to be in as good a focus as possible which is why I choose to use a high shutter speed - anything up to 1/4000th.
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