Need a replacement clutch fork! I think?

[MarkWebb]

This is my current fork which seems very worn at the contact points. Can anybody comment as to whether I am correct? I have old style fork with 16mm captive shaft and needle rollers in actual fork pivot shaft is also worn.
Can I replace this with a new one and which type as my pivot shaft is captive and does not rotate so the new type with bearings installed in the bell housing would be a waste of time????

[ROWDYRENAULT]

automotion.com/g50-g64-transmission-clutch-shaft.......... Mark take a look at this web site, this part was suggested to me and so far so good. Lee

[spatz]

I have a new shaft and needle bearings sitting on a shelf, and I would still check your clutch disc has the right thickness.

[F.C.]

sound like the play at the pivot is taking up the throw of the fork, I would get the fork pivot machined out to true with clearance for a P.B. bushing back to a new std pivot shaft.
a bit of a hassle but any competant machine shop could do this for very little outlay.
ETS replace or repair fork accordingly

[MarkWebb]

EWE can you confirm it is 16mm shaft? I still need new fork though I think as the above picture seems to show a lot of wear to the tips. Its not a good picture but the calipers are trying to measure the thickness of the tip for comparison against a new one. Here is another pic

[spatz]

Dear Mark

do not think that the wear on the fork is the source of your problems, the marks on the shaft are typical for G50 boxes
and since porsche has no spare parts anymore but a conversion kit for 400 euro the porsche folks usually put the old shaft back since the
marks do not make much of a difference.
I have been replacing the shaft on mine with an improved hardened version since I do not like taking gear boxes on and off.

[MarkWebb]

EWE
What do you think about the wear on the 2 ends of the fork? I am told that they should be rounded and mine are basically flat.

[Steve_D]

The ends of the forks should be rounded...checked mine last night since it was laying there on the garage floor.

Steve

[spatz]

i checked 3 forks that I have laying around and one looks like yours, the other two have less wear but still the difference is merely 1 mm, cannot be the reason for your problem

[3Dee]

Mark,

Did you measure the length of 'throw' when in situ? i.e. the distance the plunger travels out of the slave between when the fork was at rest with no slack, and when the fork hits the plate?

What was that measurement?

I might have a similar problem...

cheers

keith

[MarkWebb]

New fork and pin ordered. Now to suss out whether the flywheel/clutch pack is in the right place.

[spatz]

did you buy adaptor plate, clutch pressure plate and disc in one package selected to go for a G50 ? Since there is no room for mistakes in a clutch setup, it is important to have matching components.

[MarkWebb]

Car had working clutch but slipping. Changed friction disc and pressure plate for KEP stage 1 supplied by factory. New pressure plate has same dimensions as old one.

[spatz]

ok is the friction disc the same thickness as the old one ? as mentioned earlier if this is thicker, that could lead to the problem that is not fully disengaging.

[Steve_D]

spatz said:

ok is the friction disc the same thickness as the old one ? as mentioned earlier if this is thicker, that could lead to the problem that is not fully disengaging.

If that were the case I would expect there to be problems from day one. As all seemed OK for first 200miles I have to suspect something else.

Steve

[spatz]

MarkWebb said:

Car had working clutch but slipping. Changed friction disc and pressure plate for KEP stage 1 supplied by factory. New pressure plate has same dimensions as old one.

IF I read this post correctly you had a slipping clutch and you have replaced it with above quoted parts and since then cannot disengage correct ?

[MarkWebb]

Yes EWE nearly.
New clutch did work but only just for 200miles Then stopped disengaging. Again only just. I could not get a gear when stationary but was ok when driving and would stop and idle once gear was selected. 1mm of movement on pedal and you go! Does not seem to be a problem with hydraulics ie when clutch is depressed it stays in the same position.

[pilbeam_mp62]

Is it possible that the spring fingers are being pressed TOO far and the plates are coming back together again - I had this issue on a racing car once... the plates disengage as the clutch pedal is depressed...but then the spring fingers go past their optimum point and therefore the plates start to re-engage.... just a thought because you say it's ok when you are driving the car (when you are unlikely to use the FULL travel) but no good when you are stationary (when you will be more deliberate with the pedal and probably use full travel)

Regards

[MarkWebb]

SO many measurements later I am able to confirm that every dimension of the new assembled package is identical to the old. Ie the ears on the release bearing are in the same position as with the old. New fork, Bushings and shaft on order to eliminate play and wear. Lets hope it works when re assembled.

[Steve_D]

MarkWebb said:

SO, many measurements later.......

Did that include crankshaft end float?

Steve