Will clipless pedals make me faster?
Discussion
I'm doing the London Tri next month and wondering whether I'll get a significant performance improvement in using clipless pedals over the standard pedals I have now.
Points to note, are that the course is almost totally flat and using regular pedals would mean I'd have a quicker 2nd Transition as I'd be wearing my running trainers on the bike.
If I do decide to get clipless pedals, obviously I need to buy shoes and pedals, but do cleats come with the shoes or the pedals or separately?
Points to note, are that the course is almost totally flat and using regular pedals would mean I'd have a quicker 2nd Transition as I'd be wearing my running trainers on the bike.
If I do decide to get clipless pedals, obviously I need to buy shoes and pedals, but do cleats come with the shoes or the pedals or separately?
oyster said:
If I do decide to get clipless pedals, obviously I need to buy shoes and pedals, but do cleats come with the shoes or the pedals or separately?
Why would you need shoes if you buy clipless? If you want to go this route look at cages - that way you can cycle in yyour run shoes and still get the benefit.
Cleats come with the pedals usually, you could look at whether you could get mtb type shoes where the cleat is recessed, which may allow you to run in them.
As to whether they make you faster, that I can't answer, but the theory is that more power goes through the pedal which may mean you are less tired at the end of the ride.
As to whether they make you faster, that I can't answer, but the theory is that more power goes through the pedal which may mean you are less tired at the end of the ride.
I use a pair of tri orientated cycling shoes - very simple clip which mounts onto the sole (comes with the pedals) and the shoes have no laces just a single velcro strap.
Leave the shoes clipped into the bike at transition, slide your feet into them as you get on the bike outside of transition and tighten the velcro on the move - often it will stick itself on the first pedal cycle.
When finished cycling un-velcro on the move and put feet ontop of the shoes to continue cycling (not as efficient) but your ready to get off easily, can then slide into open running shoes in transition (maybe some with the twist cable tighenting system at the back?) for the run...
Leave the shoes clipped into the bike at transition, slide your feet into them as you get on the bike outside of transition and tighten the velcro on the move - often it will stick itself on the first pedal cycle.
When finished cycling un-velcro on the move and put feet ontop of the shoes to continue cycling (not as efficient) but your ready to get off easily, can then slide into open running shoes in transition (maybe some with the twist cable tighenting system at the back?) for the run...
Gargamel said:
Why would you need shoes if you buy clipless?
If you want to go this route look at cages - that way you can cycle in yyour run shoes and still get the benefit.
Shoes will be needed ("clipless" involves cleats on the shoes).If you want to go this route look at cages - that way you can cycle in yyour run shoes and still get the benefit.
Having cages will only get you half the benefit. Cycling shoes have much stiffer soles, so less energy lost flexing the shoe, not something you can really run in.
In my experience then yes, going to clipless saw an improvement in my average speed.
When I first went to clipless I was an unfit pie eater but my average went from 15mpg to just over 16mph almost immediately. Yes there's a new pedalling technique, mainly I found you have to make a deliberate, intentional effort to pull up on each legs upstroke until the new rotation style becomes second nature. My average is now almost at the magical 20 and I do believe a good portion of that is down to the fact that I am getting power from the full rotation of the cranks.
Have fitted spd's to my MTB now as well and to be honest I now absolutely hate cycling without clipless. And cages... don't get me started on how hateful cages are...
But then I'm not a Tri rider so the whole running/transition thing is a mystery to me. But as Keithon points out leaving the shoes clipped into the pedal prior to the ride potion of the event does seem to be the way to go.
When I first went to clipless I was an unfit pie eater but my average went from 15mpg to just over 16mph almost immediately. Yes there's a new pedalling technique, mainly I found you have to make a deliberate, intentional effort to pull up on each legs upstroke until the new rotation style becomes second nature. My average is now almost at the magical 20 and I do believe a good portion of that is down to the fact that I am getting power from the full rotation of the cranks.
Have fitted spd's to my MTB now as well and to be honest I now absolutely hate cycling without clipless. And cages... don't get me started on how hateful cages are...
But then I'm not a Tri rider so the whole running/transition thing is a mystery to me. But as Keithon points out leaving the shoes clipped into the pedal prior to the ride potion of the event does seem to be the way to go.
Edited by oj113 on Thursday 9th August 13:56
Clipless will most certainly give you a benefit eventually and you'll wonder why you didn't do it earlier, but you'll have to learn to pedal in a way to make them work since the main difference will be that you can pull and push on the pedals rather than just pushing but you'll need to develop your muscles to do this - do you have time to do this? I imagine the time and effort saved on the bike will more than negate the changeover time, otherwise the pros would all be wearing trainers on the bike.
Clips come with pedals usually.
Clips come with pedals usually.
Like another poster I leave my shoes clipped into my pedals, and rest my feet on top of them leaving and coming into transition. That way you're actually rolling when putting the shoes on/taking them off, which is better than doing it stationary in the transition. It also allows you to run bare foot in transition, which is quicker and safer than trying to run with cleats on your feet. Use elastic laces in your runners so they just slip on.
Problem at London is you go up a very steep incline to T2, so it's not wise to be stood on the shoes.
To answer your actual question, yes, I think clipless pedals will be faster whilst riding. But you need to judge your overall time of changing footwear.
Problem at London is you go up a very steep incline to T2, so it's not wise to be stood on the shoes.
To answer your actual question, yes, I think clipless pedals will be faster whilst riding. But you need to judge your overall time of changing footwear.
Clipless all the way but you will need time to get used to them and expect to fall off....several times without warning until you do.
Not only do clipless allow you to cycle more efficiently, you also have the added benefit of an upward stroke motion when you need more power. And as already mentioned you have shoes which are very stiff thus allowing you to transfer more energy from your legs to the crank.
However, having said all that, be very careful with the type of pedal you choose. If you have slightly dodgy knees, go for pedals that offer a little lateral movement.
I found Shimano SPD's hurt my knees badly and I did away with them fairly quickly.
I now use Crank Brother Eggbeaters on both my mountain bike (Mallet version), and my roadie. Some people ask me why but they are very comfortable and they are lighter than other roadie clipless pedals and they offer more movement making them more comfortable.
Whatever you choose, make sure you practice with them. I guarantee they'll catch you out at some point...normally at the traffic lights when you come to a stop.
And on a more amusing note, don't over-tighten the Shimano SPD pedals if you get them. My friend got totally stuck in them once during a ride and ended up having to remove his shoes to get the pedals off much to our amusement. In hindsight, he could have wrecked his knees had he come off!!
Not only do clipless allow you to cycle more efficiently, you also have the added benefit of an upward stroke motion when you need more power. And as already mentioned you have shoes which are very stiff thus allowing you to transfer more energy from your legs to the crank.
However, having said all that, be very careful with the type of pedal you choose. If you have slightly dodgy knees, go for pedals that offer a little lateral movement.
I found Shimano SPD's hurt my knees badly and I did away with them fairly quickly.
I now use Crank Brother Eggbeaters on both my mountain bike (Mallet version), and my roadie. Some people ask me why but they are very comfortable and they are lighter than other roadie clipless pedals and they offer more movement making them more comfortable.
Whatever you choose, make sure you practice with them. I guarantee they'll catch you out at some point...normally at the traffic lights when you come to a stop.
And on a more amusing note, don't over-tighten the Shimano SPD pedals if you get them. My friend got totally stuck in them once during a ride and ended up having to remove his shoes to get the pedals off much to our amusement. In hindsight, he could have wrecked his knees had he come off!!
clipless pedals wont make you any faster, they will make you more efficient. from that efficiency saving, you can improve your speed but you will need to reassess your pedal stroke to get those efficiencies. Wihtout them you rely on the downstroke, with them, you need to get the downstroke working with the "scrape" backwards and then the uplift phase of the poedal stroke. If your objective is to go faster then yes, clipless pedals are a useful addition.
However they can be a faff in transitions.
1 - you are a brave man to run fast in stiff soles with cleats on, dependant upon where your bike is racked, this could take a while to reach the mounting line
2 - the alternative is to attach them to the bike before the race, leave them open with the intention of jumping on the bike straight into the shoes like the pros. I tried this once. It was a disaster. you will wobble around for a few metres straight out of the tranistion causing carnage. It will take about 15 seconds to get both feet secure in the shoes.
Toe clips and running shoes are a good compromise and mean you can be in and out of tranistion very quickly. Also you can not run in mtb clipless shoes, the sole is way too stiff and your feet will be in agony.
I am sceptical that clipless pedals alone will save anyone 4-5 minutes over a 10km course, thats a huge saving!
However they can be a faff in transitions.
1 - you are a brave man to run fast in stiff soles with cleats on, dependant upon where your bike is racked, this could take a while to reach the mounting line
2 - the alternative is to attach them to the bike before the race, leave them open with the intention of jumping on the bike straight into the shoes like the pros. I tried this once. It was a disaster. you will wobble around for a few metres straight out of the tranistion causing carnage. It will take about 15 seconds to get both feet secure in the shoes.
Toe clips and running shoes are a good compromise and mean you can be in and out of tranistion very quickly. Also you can not run in mtb clipless shoes, the sole is way too stiff and your feet will be in agony.
I am sceptical that clipless pedals alone will save anyone 4-5 minutes over a 10km course, thats a huge saving!
beanbag said:
Whatever you choose, make sure you practice with them. I guarantee they'll catch you out at some point...normally at the traffic lights when you come to a stop.
Yes, I don't know of any of my cycling chums who hasn't had this happen...I my case I was cycling home from work on a sunny summers eve, at the traffic lights on Store Street about to pull onto Goodge Street in London. Pulled lazily up to the red lights, stopped... and too late realised I was in my clipless and slowly tipped over onto my side...
Worst was that the only person who decided to check if I was ok and wanted help up was a lovely old dear in her 80's, embarrassing doesn't quite describe it.
yes to SPD's - marked difference in power transfer to the bike and less knackering.
Having ridden for 2 decades in toe clips I can tell you that SPD is sooooooooo much better.
Just leave the pedals on the slackest tension until you get the "twist out" technique sorted - that way you can still pull out of them in an emergency, but you will find you come uncleated on a powerful upstroke once you get used to them. This is the time to start winding the tension on.
You wont fall over at the lights - especially if you just ride through them like every other cyclist in town lol!
Having ridden for 2 decades in toe clips I can tell you that SPD is sooooooooo much better.
Just leave the pedals on the slackest tension until you get the "twist out" technique sorted - that way you can still pull out of them in an emergency, but you will find you come uncleated on a powerful upstroke once you get used to them. This is the time to start winding the tension on.
You wont fall over at the lights - especially if you just ride through them like every other cyclist in town lol!
I used one-strap velcro ones but just hobbled from transition to the mounting line and vice-versa.
In fact if you are size 9-10 you can have mine for free. They are utterly hideous.
Do NOT run in any sort of SPD shoe.
If you aren't a pro then you will probably lose some time in the transition changing shoes.
BUT in the longer term PROPER cycling requires clipless so you might as well bite the bullet now.
In fact if you are size 9-10 you can have mine for free. They are utterly hideous.
Do NOT run in any sort of SPD shoe.
If you aren't a pro then you will probably lose some time in the transition changing shoes.
BUT in the longer term PROPER cycling requires clipless so you might as well bite the bullet now.
Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff