Cerbera cooling system issue and bleeding
Discussion
Hi All,
I had a cooling issue on my cerb caused by leaky silicon hoses at the joins I am assuming leaking air into the system (now fixed and pressure hold up on a tester).
I have tested for head gasket issue using block tester.
I have read a couple of posts on bleedi methods and have tried Jacking front right and filling via rad through a pipe.
The car runs fine and the temp sits around 80 ish.
However, when I lower the car and run with the rad cap off level in the header tank rises as the engine gets warm and if left chucks coolant out (in a small fountain over heating type way rather than a slow overflow).
The water pump works as the outlet into the header tank is pushing out fluid fine.
So am I being an idiot and the cooling system is fine and requires the pressure with e cap on to enable the system to work efficiently enough? This would explain the fact that the temp on the gauge is fine but I get overheating syptoms if water flow In the block is reducedand the boiling point is lower with no pressure.
If not I guess I either have a duff thermostat (although since the car warms up fine and runs at e correct temp I believe this to be OK), or an airlock somewhere, or a blockage somewhere.
Any thoughts much appreciated,
Matt
I had a cooling issue on my cerb caused by leaky silicon hoses at the joins I am assuming leaking air into the system (now fixed and pressure hold up on a tester).
I have tested for head gasket issue using block tester.
I have read a couple of posts on bleedi methods and have tried Jacking front right and filling via rad through a pipe.
The car runs fine and the temp sits around 80 ish.
However, when I lower the car and run with the rad cap off level in the header tank rises as the engine gets warm and if left chucks coolant out (in a small fountain over heating type way rather than a slow overflow).
The water pump works as the outlet into the header tank is pushing out fluid fine.
So am I being an idiot and the cooling system is fine and requires the pressure with e cap on to enable the system to work efficiently enough? This would explain the fact that the temp on the gauge is fine but I get overheating syptoms if water flow In the block is reducedand the boiling point is lower with no pressure.
If not I guess I either have a duff thermostat (although since the car warms up fine and runs at e correct temp I believe this to be OK), or an airlock somewhere, or a blockage somewhere.
Any thoughts much appreciated,
Matt
Run it with the cap on. I found run it for a whole. Get some heat into it. Turn engine off. Bleed rad, passenger side rail then drivers side. Cool down. Top up if needed. Run up to temp and bleed again
I found bleeding it cold using a pressure tested worked great getting most of the air out.
I found bleeding it cold using a pressure tested worked great getting most of the air out.
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