Car shuddering
Discussion
Dear all, looking for some help on a ‘type of vibration’.
At 80mph the car seems to shudder for a few seconds, stops then shudders again then stops, it happens every few seconds, the internal mirror is a blurr while this happens, when I drop to 70mph the shudder goes.
All the suspension arms have been refurbished with polybushes and new bolts, I have replaced the front top and bottom ball joints, new track rod ends, replaced all the rear wheel bearings, new CV joints and boots, the geometry has been setup to the factory spec, all wheels are balanced got those done a few months ago, engine mounts are new, the gearbox ones are original, so are the rear diff. The oils have been changed in the gearbox and rear diff last year (4000 miles ago)
If the shuddering was continuous then I would suspect wheels, drive shafts, propshaft. When stationary the engine revs up no vibration maybe this means nothing.
Can any shed some light on the problem – thanks in advance?
At 80mph the car seems to shudder for a few seconds, stops then shudders again then stops, it happens every few seconds, the internal mirror is a blurr while this happens, when I drop to 70mph the shudder goes.
All the suspension arms have been refurbished with polybushes and new bolts, I have replaced the front top and bottom ball joints, new track rod ends, replaced all the rear wheel bearings, new CV joints and boots, the geometry has been setup to the factory spec, all wheels are balanced got those done a few months ago, engine mounts are new, the gearbox ones are original, so are the rear diff. The oils have been changed in the gearbox and rear diff last year (4000 miles ago)
If the shuddering was continuous then I would suspect wheels, drive shafts, propshaft. When stationary the engine revs up no vibration maybe this means nothing.
Can any shed some light on the problem – thanks in advance?
Assuming this happens on all sorts of different roads?
I would try going up to say 85mph on a decent road, lift off and see how the shuddering comes in. Then repeat but knock it out of gear and see if anything changes as it slows down. It could be some sort of resonance, taking the engine out of the equation would be a start.
Appologies in advance for saying this, leave the engine running and don't take the key out
I would try going up to say 85mph on a decent road, lift off and see how the shuddering comes in. Then repeat but knock it out of gear and see if anything changes as it slows down. It could be some sort of resonance, taking the engine out of the equation would be a start.
Appologies in advance for saying this, leave the engine running and don't take the key out
I had something similar with my chim when I first bought it. Felt like a wheel balance issue but it had a 2-3 second cycle at speed and wasnt continuous.
Turned out that the propshaft UJ was dry. Once it had been dismantled, packed with fresh grease and re-assembled the vibration vanished.
I now make sure its greased at every service.
Turned out that the propshaft UJ was dry. Once it had been dismantled, packed with fresh grease and re-assembled the vibration vanished.
I now make sure its greased at every service.
Dodsy - -you could have something, maybe a joint is worn and under a gently pressure ie high speed it could be oscillating or a joint binding I have never greased the shaft since buying the car 2 years ago and before that I think ADAM was the last person to have this car, it’s my fault with all the jobs that needed doing this one slipped through the net. I have a T5 G/box suppose I will have to pull the whole sleeved part out of the g/box to take the prop off…
When changing the CV joints I noticed that there was a small amount of play on the output shafts from the rear diff could this be a source of the shuddering?
I will continue to try the method of Flipflopgriff and Ribol if this leads to nothing then I will drop the propshaft and change the joints.
When changing the CV joints I noticed that there was a small amount of play on the output shafts from the rear diff could this be a source of the shuddering?
I will continue to try the method of Flipflopgriff and Ribol if this leads to nothing then I will drop the propshaft and change the joints.
Ribol thanks for the picture (wish I still had my 4 post lift)looks like I need to buy some PAS fluid 'just in case'….
Sgrimshaw getting a prop balanced in the UK no probs i knew loads of places, here in France finding someone = difficult, the cost will be stupid, but if I have lost a weight I will have to pay, lets hope not..
Tonight I will try all the previous suggestions on the auto route, (lets hope there are no police)… after that her ass will be up in the air and check the prop
Sgrimshaw getting a prop balanced in the UK no probs i knew loads of places, here in France finding someone = difficult, the cost will be stupid, but if I have lost a weight I will have to pay, lets hope not..
Tonight I will try all the previous suggestions on the auto route, (lets hope there are no police)… after that her ass will be up in the air and check the prop
Ok Guys now you think I being strange when I say I had no shuddering tonight – Went all the way to 125mph kept it there for 3 miles 
on the auto route changing from 5th to 4th dipping the clutch, but nothing, there was a little constant vibration from the front through the steering wheel at 125 but nothing like yesterday – 
so now i am all 
to suggestions.
I have had some vacuum issues with the fuel tank over the last few weeks, would this have anything to do with fuelling to cause the shuddering?
Ribol mentioned the propshaft, I now want to eliminate this from the list of possible’s, does anyone have the part numbers for the UJ’s, are they Land Rover or another, any help please.
Sgrimshaw great suggestion for the tyre weight
but I can not work out the amount of weight or the extra of the metal zip-tie to hold it- 
on the auto route changing from 5th to 4th dipping the clutch, but nothing, there was a little constant vibration from the front through the steering wheel at 125 but nothing like yesterday – so now i am all to suggestions.I have had some vacuum issues with the fuel tank over the last few weeks, would this have anything to do with fuelling to cause the shuddering?
Ribol mentioned the propshaft, I now want to eliminate this from the list of possible’s, does anyone have the part numbers for the UJ’s, are they Land Rover or another, any help please.
Sgrimshaw great suggestion for the tyre weight
but I can not work out the amount of weight or the extra of the metal zip-tie to hold it- Hi DonkeyApple - I filled up 1 hour before the shuddering started, last night when I returned I went to loosen the filler cap and there was a hiss from the air entering the tank, think I need to check the one way valve and pipes too and from the tank, you think this could be the problem?
pbaker43 said:
Hi DonkeyApple - I filled up 1 hour before the shuddering started, last night when I returned I went to loosen the filler cap and there was a hiss from the air entering the tank, think I need to check the one way valve and pipes too and from the tank, you think this could be the problem?
I'm not sure.What I was thinking of was the fact that the shudder seems to happen at the kind of RPM level that is roughly where the engine will be coming on to the cam. It might be possible that a batch of crappy fuel could be the cause.
I have a very cammy engine and you can really feel the point at which it comes onto the cam and starts flying, I recently had some turd fuel in the car and that tonal vibration point as the engine gets going was exacerbated quite badly by this. As soon as I got some Optimax in and through it everything went all sweet again.
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff