RAW: Assist a layperson.
Discussion
Morning, afternoon, evening...
I don't really know what RAW is, just that it can retain quality through the editing process, ie. 'non-lossy', we didn't cover it at all in A-Level Photography...
I'd like to try and use it and thus have asked my SLR to take images in both RAW and JPEG. However, I have Adobe Photoshop CS3 Extended, and there's a possibility that it might not be completely, totally, 100%, vaguely legit, in a roundabout way... Whilst I don't know if this affects anything, I tried downloading something-or-other to do with RAW from the Adobe site, a plug-in, I think. Anyway, following the instructions didn't help, nothing worked and I ballsed up the entire program. Nothing a System Restore couldn't fix though. Anyway, I'm still without way of opening and editing RAW files, so what I'm looking for is a little guidance on the subject...
How does it work?
How to I process it?
What do I use to process it?
Many thanks in advance.
I don't really know what RAW is, just that it can retain quality through the editing process, ie. 'non-lossy', we didn't cover it at all in A-Level Photography...
I'd like to try and use it and thus have asked my SLR to take images in both RAW and JPEG. However, I have Adobe Photoshop CS3 Extended, and there's a possibility that it might not be completely, totally, 100%, vaguely legit, in a roundabout way... Whilst I don't know if this affects anything, I tried downloading something-or-other to do with RAW from the Adobe site, a plug-in, I think. Anyway, following the instructions didn't help, nothing worked and I ballsed up the entire program. Nothing a System Restore couldn't fix though. Anyway, I'm still without way of opening and editing RAW files, so what I'm looking for is a little guidance on the subject...
How does it work?
How to I process it?
What do I use to process it?
Many thanks in advance.
RAW files are umm.. well.. the raw data.
JPEG is a compressed format - this means that some of the data is lost.
When you wish to process the image (for example reduce the exposure) that loss of data will be evident.
We should say that there isn't a file format called RAW - each manufacturer has their own format. So a Canon RAW file (.CR2 extension) is different from a Nikon RAW file (.NEF extension).
You load the RAW file in to some software that lets you alter the image - correct white balance, alter exposure and hundreds of other things. Once you've completed your editing you export the image to JPEG to print/upload/whatever.
Elements should read whichever one you have, I can't help any more than that as I use Lightroom for processing. From a quick search it would seem you'll have to download a plugin so it can work.
If you have hooky software I'd look to get rid of it to be honest. Did your camera not come with software ? use that or look at Gimp - http://www.gimp.org/ you need to download an add-on to make it read RAW files but its free and will work.
Alternatively go and buy Elements or lightroom - even if you revert to JPEG at some point lightroom will still have its uses
JPEG is a compressed format - this means that some of the data is lost.
When you wish to process the image (for example reduce the exposure) that loss of data will be evident.
We should say that there isn't a file format called RAW - each manufacturer has their own format. So a Canon RAW file (.CR2 extension) is different from a Nikon RAW file (.NEF extension).
You load the RAW file in to some software that lets you alter the image - correct white balance, alter exposure and hundreds of other things. Once you've completed your editing you export the image to JPEG to print/upload/whatever.
Elements should read whichever one you have, I can't help any more than that as I use Lightroom for processing. From a quick search it would seem you'll have to download a plugin so it can work.
If you have hooky software I'd look to get rid of it to be honest. Did your camera not come with software ? use that or look at Gimp - http://www.gimp.org/ you need to download an add-on to make it read RAW files but its free and will work.
Alternatively go and buy Elements or lightroom - even if you revert to JPEG at some point lightroom will still have its uses
I quite like the 'digital negative' analogy. All the information is there but you have to process it to make a viewable image. And you can make as many 'prints' (JPGs) from it as you like, applying different settings to each if you wish.
Note that you don't re-save as RAW, you apply parameters to taste and then save as an image format. The RAW file is unchanged.
Note that you don't re-save as RAW, you apply parameters to taste and then save as an image format. The RAW file is unchanged.
CS3 will be able to edit RAW files and export to JPEG.
Lightroom allows for editing but does not have as many features as full blown photoshop, I don't know how it compares to elements. Lightroom has lots of other features with regards to library management - you can tag photos so you can find them again, organise the collection, it has auto upload features for sites like flickr etc.
Lightroom allows for editing but does not have as many features as full blown photoshop, I don't know how it compares to elements. Lightroom has lots of other features with regards to library management - you can tag photos so you can find them again, organise the collection, it has auto upload features for sites like flickr etc.
Different variations of PS and I assume other programmes will work on different versions of RAW. Unfortunately camera manufacturers update the spec of their raw algorithms and software manufacturers only support the last couple of versions of software, the result older programmes won't process raw files from new cameras. CS3 won't deal with the RAW files from a Canon 7D for example.
You'll need software, update or plugin that was made after your camera - because every make and model of camera makes its own kind of RAW file.
There are various levels, eg just a RAW viewer, or something that lets you make JPGs with a few adjustments (possibly came with your camera?), or something all-singing/dancing like Capture One. But then you can get sidetracked by options/complexity you don't need.
The other option, of course, is to shoot JPG - which is perfectly legal if it does everything you require at present - and then you can concentrate on photography rather than playing with software
My advice would be - don't adopt RAW just because people tell you it's better, adopt it when you are ready to and need the advantages it offers.
There are various levels, eg just a RAW viewer, or something that lets you make JPGs with a few adjustments (possibly came with your camera?), or something all-singing/dancing like Capture One. But then you can get sidetracked by options/complexity you don't need.
The other option, of course, is to shoot JPG - which is perfectly legal if it does everything you require at present - and then you can concentrate on photography rather than playing with software
My advice would be - don't adopt RAW just because people tell you it's better, adopt it when you are ready to and need the advantages it offers.
Edited by Simpo Two on Friday 31st August 22:25
[Reposted from an old reply but still relevant here ]
Raw is the sensor data, unedited - a raw file isn't an image in the same way a jpg is. It's data that your raw processor needs to interpret. In this way, the raw file is the greatest possible range of data your camera has produced - if you get new (better) raw processing software in the future it can re-interpret this information as if the shot had just been taken.
So when your camera saves the jpg's its making a series of decisions for you (guided by your contrast, style, etc. settings). So if you switch to shooting raw you effectively interrupt that process a stage earlier, you stop the camera making those decisions and get to make them for yourself.
You could compare the process to the 'old' system of taking your film to the chemist to get your photos done - they interpret your film and produce a final image. If you were printing your own shot in your darkroom you may have made different decisions and produced a radically different image.
My process is:
1. Shoot RAW
2. Process - export TIF file.
3. Edit in photoshop if required
3. Save web-resolution jpg.
There is nothing to stop you from shooting RAW & JPG though, see if you prefer one shot over the other.
Along with the quality argument, I want to have the most flexibility stored for the future. If you end up wanting to brighten the image then you want all the shadow data possible - shadow data that may have been lost if the original image was saved as jpg only.
Its all personal preference of course - I've just decided that I don't want to discard any data until I need to. So I shoot raw, save with lossless compression, then only save as jpg once I've decided on the final image.
Hope this helps.
]Raw is the sensor data, unedited - a raw file isn't an image in the same way a jpg is. It's data that your raw processor needs to interpret. In this way, the raw file is the greatest possible range of data your camera has produced - if you get new (better) raw processing software in the future it can re-interpret this information as if the shot had just been taken.
So when your camera saves the jpg's its making a series of decisions for you (guided by your contrast, style, etc. settings). So if you switch to shooting raw you effectively interrupt that process a stage earlier, you stop the camera making those decisions and get to make them for yourself.
You could compare the process to the 'old' system of taking your film to the chemist to get your photos done - they interpret your film and produce a final image. If you were printing your own shot in your darkroom you may have made different decisions and produced a radically different image.
My process is:
1. Shoot RAW
2. Process - export TIF file.
3. Edit in photoshop if required
3. Save web-resolution jpg.
There is nothing to stop you from shooting RAW & JPG though, see if you prefer one shot over the other.
Along with the quality argument, I want to have the most flexibility stored for the future. If you end up wanting to brighten the image then you want all the shadow data possible - shadow data that may have been lost if the original image was saved as jpg only.
Its all personal preference of course - I've just decided that I don't want to discard any data until I need to. So I shoot raw, save with lossless compression, then only save as jpg once I've decided on the final image.
Hope this helps.
Edited by flat-planedCrank on Saturday 1st September 00:09
Some of the newer cameras will need later versions of camera Raw software. Try RAW Therapee or RAW Magick if you want free viewers/converters
The file sizes will be larger than jpegs because you're getting all the data and none of the loss. You cant do anything with them online (or print really) until they're converted though, so this is your negative to do what you want with. You'll never change the original data of the file, only make adjustments and then you can export into CS3
The file sizes will be larger than jpegs because you're getting all the data and none of the loss. You cant do anything with them online (or print really) until they're converted though, so this is your negative to do what you want with. You'll never change the original data of the file, only make adjustments and then you can export into CS3
Simpo Two said:
My advice would be - don't adopt RAW just because people tell you it's better, adopt it when you are ready to and need the advantages it offers.
^ Top piece of advice.If you aren't working the image, then RAW is really isn't required. It's only when you start to fine tune an image that it comes into it's own. The problem with Jpeg isn't so much the compression, but the loss of detail from a narrow dynamic range. You might not see the dynamic range in the RAW image, but the info is still there and can be brought up in software.
But fine tuning an image is a waste of time until you have a decent photograph to work on in the first place.
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