Mapmyride v bike computer
Discussion
Hi
Fitted a Sigma bike computer to my bike at the weekend. Just a simple non-wireless affair from Decathlon. Over the summer I've been using Mapmyride on my phone, and the standard weekday evening run comes in at 18.61km. Doing it last night the computer comes in at just over 20km. I'm pretty sure I've set the computer right with tyre sizes etc.
Simple question is which one should be more accurate?
Ta
Fitted a Sigma bike computer to my bike at the weekend. Just a simple non-wireless affair from Decathlon. Over the summer I've been using Mapmyride on my phone, and the standard weekday evening run comes in at 18.61km. Doing it last night the computer comes in at just over 20km. I'm pretty sure I've set the computer right with tyre sizes etc.
Simple question is which one should be more accurate?
Ta
I find the normal bike computers are more consistent, especially with constant updates to my Android that seem to mess GPS recording up. On any ride where you lose GPS signal I find they can over read by about 10-15%. In the end I got the wheel size setting on the Cateye to about as right as I could get it and use that in parallel with GPS. On my commute the computer and phone matched 99% of the distance for a year or so then after an update the computer still said 4.7, the phone 5.7. If I look at the map once I’ve uploaded it I’m going through buildings and weaving all over the place.
Also I used to keep the phone in a pocket in my shorts. Now it’s at the top of the rucksack and seems to be closer in line with what I’m doing on the computer.
Also I used to keep the phone in a pocket in my shorts. Now it’s at the top of the rucksack and seems to be closer in line with what I’m doing on the computer.
Thanks for the quick responses...
"On any ride where you lose GPS signal I find they can over read by about 10-15%"
I think this could be a key aspect as the route does take me out into the country between Worcester and Droitwich - not the ends of the earth I know but coverage could be patchy over the course of a run.
I guess the trick is to keep an eye on them both and see if any consistent pattern energes.
"On any ride where you lose GPS signal I find they can over read by about 10-15%"
I think this could be a key aspect as the route does take me out into the country between Worcester and Droitwich - not the ends of the earth I know but coverage could be patchy over the course of a run.
I guess the trick is to keep an eye on them both and see if any consistent pattern energes.
2volvos said:
Thanks for the quick responses...
"On any ride where you lose GPS signal I find they can over read by about 10-15%"
I think this could be a key aspect as the route does take me out into the country between Worcester and Droitwich - not the ends of the earth I know but coverage could be patchy over the course of a run.
I guess the trick is to keep an eye on them both and see if any consistent pattern energes.
You're my neck of the woods. I ride Malvern - Worcester and occasionally keep going to Droitwich. What route do you take?"On any ride where you lose GPS signal I find they can over read by about 10-15%"
I think this could be a key aspect as the route does take me out into the country between Worcester and Droitwich - not the ends of the earth I know but coverage could be patchy over the course of a run.
I guess the trick is to keep an eye on them both and see if any consistent pattern energes.
2volvos said:
I think this could be a key aspect as the route does take me out into the country between Worcester and Droitwich - not the ends of the earth I know but coverage could be patchy over the course of a run.
FWIW I use a HTC and Googles MyTracks. There's a railway bridge with a set of lights infront of it and if I got caught under there for a while then I'm sure it would lose GPS and then mess up the reading a bit. I also found that for a week when my phone randomly deleted it's data settings it was overeading the distance. I'd set off still on wifi - then arrive and pick the wifi back up. The map trace looked right but the distance was 6.5 miles not 4.7 - Maybe some of these mapping apps need to keep the map online to be completely accurate? Perhaps it's losing data signal rather than GPS that's the cause of your difference.
Vocal Minority said:
2volvos said:
Thanks for the quick responses...
"On any ride where you lose GPS signal I find they can over read by about 10-15%"
I think this could be a key aspect as the route does take me out into the country between Worcester and Droitwich - not the ends of the earth I know but coverage could be patchy over the course of a run.
I guess the trick is to keep an eye on them both and see if any consistent pattern energes.
You're my neck of the woods. I ride Malvern - Worcester and occasionally keep going to Droitwich. What route do you take?"On any ride where you lose GPS signal I find they can over read by about 10-15%"
I think this could be a key aspect as the route does take me out into the country between Worcester and Droitwich - not the ends of the earth I know but coverage could be patchy over the course of a run.
I guess the trick is to keep an eye on them both and see if any consistent pattern energes.
One way to confirm your tyre circumference is to:
1) First ensure your tyres are at 'riding' pressure.
2) Make a chalk mark on the bottom centre of your tyre sidewall, and a corresponding mark on the floor
3) Roll the bike forward in a straight line, preferably with your weight on it, until the chalk mark is back at bottom centre
4) Make another corresponding mark on the floor, measure the distance between the 2 marks
This method gives you an accurate measure of the distance covered with each revolution of the wheel, and some cycle computers (certainly older Cateye models) will allow you to stick in the exact measurement in millimetres when you first set them up.
One caveat with this method is that if you change to a different tyre size, or between winter/summer tyres, you should do this every time you change tyres to ensure accuracy. I know that more recent Cateye computers don't let you do the exact measurement thing, but it will allow you to get the nearest figure from the pre-selected list.
If you've forgotten how to set up/calibrate your computer, Cateye let you download the instructions in PDF form from their website.
[You may have gathered that I am a long-term user of Cateye products. Other cycle computers are available]
1) First ensure your tyres are at 'riding' pressure.
2) Make a chalk mark on the bottom centre of your tyre sidewall, and a corresponding mark on the floor
3) Roll the bike forward in a straight line, preferably with your weight on it, until the chalk mark is back at bottom centre
4) Make another corresponding mark on the floor, measure the distance between the 2 marks
This method gives you an accurate measure of the distance covered with each revolution of the wheel, and some cycle computers (certainly older Cateye models) will allow you to stick in the exact measurement in millimetres when you first set them up.
One caveat with this method is that if you change to a different tyre size, or between winter/summer tyres, you should do this every time you change tyres to ensure accuracy. I know that more recent Cateye computers don't let you do the exact measurement thing, but it will allow you to get the nearest figure from the pre-selected list.
If you've forgotten how to set up/calibrate your computer, Cateye let you download the instructions in PDF form from their website.
[You may have gathered that I am a long-term user of Cateye products. Other cycle computers are available]
Vocal Minority said:
I have a cateye something or other super simple boggo computer.
It and mapmyride on android correlate to within 2-3% almost invariably.
Similar here - they're pretty darned close, on everything from a couple of miles down the road through to the 50+ mile routes.It and mapmyride on android correlate to within 2-3% almost invariably.
Just have to ensure that the boggo computer is properly calibrated for your wheel size, otherwise it'll be useless.
yellowjack said:
One way to confirm your tyre circumference is to:
1) First ensure your tyres are at 'riding' pressure.
2) Make a chalk mark on the bottom centre of your tyre sidewall, and a corresponding mark on the floor
3) Roll the bike forward in a straight line, preferably with your weight on it, until the chalk mark is back at bottom centre
4) Make another corresponding mark on the floor, measure the distance between the 2 marks
This method gives you an accurate measure of the distance covered with each revolution of the wheel, and some cycle computers (certainly older Cateye models) will allow you to stick in the exact measurement in millimetres when you first set them up.
One caveat with this method is that if you change to a different tyre size, or between winter/summer tyres, you should do this every time you change tyres to ensure accuracy. I know that more recent Cateye computers don't let you do the exact measurement thing, but it will allow you to get the nearest figure from the pre-selected list.
If you've forgotten how to set up/calibrate your computer, Cateye let you download the instructions in PDF form from their website.
[You may have gathered that I am a long-term user of Cateye products. Other cycle computers are available]
All of this. Don't trust the pre-set calibrations for your tyre size. Measure it as above and set that (or the nearest you can).1) First ensure your tyres are at 'riding' pressure.
2) Make a chalk mark on the bottom centre of your tyre sidewall, and a corresponding mark on the floor
3) Roll the bike forward in a straight line, preferably with your weight on it, until the chalk mark is back at bottom centre
4) Make another corresponding mark on the floor, measure the distance between the 2 marks
This method gives you an accurate measure of the distance covered with each revolution of the wheel, and some cycle computers (certainly older Cateye models) will allow you to stick in the exact measurement in millimetres when you first set them up.
One caveat with this method is that if you change to a different tyre size, or between winter/summer tyres, you should do this every time you change tyres to ensure accuracy. I know that more recent Cateye computers don't let you do the exact measurement thing, but it will allow you to get the nearest figure from the pre-selected list.
If you've forgotten how to set up/calibrate your computer, Cateye let you download the instructions in PDF form from their website.
[You may have gathered that I am a long-term user of Cateye products. Other cycle computers are available]
ewenm said:
All of this. Don't trust the pre-set calibrations for your tyre size. Measure it as above and set that (or the nearest you can).
Wise words, great mate. Thanks - I'll have a go at that. Similar to Daz's experience, GPS reckoned my top speed last night was 75kph. If only...
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