rear wheel bearing... :-/
Discussion
I noticed last night when fitting my rear drivers wheel there's a tiny bit of play.
The passengers whole unit was replaced earlier this year, March, as part of the mot. (cheers Adrian@)
Now Im thinking the bearings aren't brilliant. Removed the split pin, took castle nut off and noticed the threads are blue near the bearing (with drum still on) so time to change. I did nip the bearing up, very tight but I feel its best to change...
Opinions and advice on changing the bearings only, around £23 for a kit from rimmers;
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GHK1015
Or more expensive, a complete unit swap.
Tbh money is a 'thing's at the moment, got three weddings to attend, a christening and traveling related to this all.
Thanks in advance..
Mick
The passengers whole unit was replaced earlier this year, March, as part of the mot. (cheers Adrian@)
Now Im thinking the bearings aren't brilliant. Removed the split pin, took castle nut off and noticed the threads are blue near the bearing (with drum still on) so time to change. I did nip the bearing up, very tight but I feel its best to change...
Opinions and advice on changing the bearings only, around £23 for a kit from rimmers;
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GHK1015
Or more expensive, a complete unit swap.
Tbh money is a 'thing's at the moment, got three weddings to attend, a christening and traveling related to this all.
Thanks in advance..
Mick
That looks like a tapper roller and needs a bit of play in it, if it isn't whining when driving and doesn't rumble or grind if you spin the hub/wheel then leave it, just make sure it's properly packed with grease.
BTW, if you don't already know, on that it looks like you adjust the play with the spacer.
BTW, if you don't already know, on that it looks like you adjust the play with the spacer.
Edited by jagracer on Tuesday 4th September 18:57
The outer nut ONLY holds the flange onto the stub and IF done up more than the correct torque (which is different for the castellated nut and nyloc) then you risk the nut pulling off the threaded part of the stub, then the wheel and drum part company with the stub and leaves the wheel free to damage the wheel arch!! which almost certainly will keep the wheel from disappearing down the road.
ALL of the adjustment is from the rear of the unit, AND, IMHO if when removed from the car (along with the halfshaft) the dust shield can rotate freely then the unit needs rebuilding with the correct tools. Again IMHO using tri pullers and presses either bends the flange (giving you wheel wobble and balance issues) or stresses the stub axle (leading to breakages)
Adrian@
ALL of the adjustment is from the rear of the unit, AND, IMHO if when removed from the car (along with the halfshaft) the dust shield can rotate freely then the unit needs rebuilding with the correct tools. Again IMHO using tri pullers and presses either bends the flange (giving you wheel wobble and balance issues) or stresses the stub axle (leading to breakages)
Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 4th September 19:37
:-/
oh... I was thinking that i have my old basterdiesed unit which i was going to take to bits and learn, so the car one currently fitted doesn't get touched...
I'd rather looked at it first then attempt hence your advice Adrian. :-)
Right think I'll have tea and see how i feel in a bit. :-)
oh... I was thinking that i have my old basterdiesed unit which i was going to take to bits and learn, so the car one currently fitted doesn't get touched...
I'd rather looked at it first then attempt hence your advice Adrian. :-)
Right think I'll have tea and see how i feel in a bit. :-)
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