Oil Pump driveshaft broken... Help!

[golfman]

Oil Pump driveshaft broken... Help!

1997, 4.2 Cerbera. Any suggestions much appreciated!

Long Story Short…

Oil pressure gauge reading zero and oil light on. Switched engine off, only ran for about 20 seconds like this ticking over.

Car towed to TVR Barnet.

Was informed there is a driveshaft in the engine that works the oil pump, water pump and power steering. This driveshaft has broken.

They have said it needs to go back to TVR Engineering for a full engine rebuild! Even though a full engine rebuild was carried out by them only a few thousand miles ago!

As you can appreciate I am very concerned by all this and any feedback you can give would be appreciated. Estimated costs given between £2k – 5k depending if any other fault is found.

Cheers.

[simonsparrow]

Hmmm, I would've thought (hoped) that you'd only need to replace the driveshaft, if it was only run for 20 secs like this. Be worth perhaps checking the bearing shells for any damage, but it should be ok.

[trooper1212]

Sounds like total rubbish to me! 20 seconds of no oil pressure at idle speed shouldn't cause any serious damage, there will still have been residual oil on all the bearings.

As your in the area I'd recommend giving Topcats a call, they will be able to give you some proper advice.

If you engine was rebuilt a few thousand ago, is it still under warranty?


>> Edited by trooper1212 on Thursday 19th August 18:53

[Targarama]

Agreed. Call a few choice indies who know the AJP V8 such as Topcats, Joospeed or Steve Howard, Thames Racing/Insane Racing.

I hope you'll be able to trailor it to one of these for a bit of fettling instead of taking it to the seaside (where failed asylum seekers will w@nk all over it)



>> Edited by Targarama on Thursday 19th August 19:10

[bilton_d]

isn't it an engine out job to get it repalced?
There was a car in at Hexham HC recently that had the same thing and i am sure he went for a RR upgrade because the egine had to be removed to replace the shaft.

[dannylt]

There are some bodges to fix the shaft, which are more appropriate if it's broken at the PAS pump (the shaft drives the oil pump first, then the PAS). Then, if the bodge lets go, it's only the PAS you lose - and you can even switch to a seperate electric PAS pump or something. However, I'd be inclined to get a new shaft for the oil pump. It's not necessarily the shaft that's broken, it can also be the woodruff key that actually drives the pump - a small metal disc in a slot in the shaft.

Replacing the shaft is engine out I think.

I thought mine had broken because I lost the PAS, but after flushing fresh fluid through it was fine - lucky surprise!

[joospeed]

if you've got air con you're outta luck .. you can get the timing cover off the cars with no air con cos they have the shorter crankshaft .. the air con cars have a a crank extension which you can't get the front cover past ..

early cars though had a bolt-on crank extension but I'm not sure if that carried over onto the later cars or not .. my very early 4.2 ajp has this bolt -on crank pully extension, but it's a late 95 engine..

joo

[shpub]

trooper1212 said:

Sounds like total rubbish to me! 20 seconds of no oil pressure at idle speed shouldn't cause any serious damage, there will still have been residual oil on all the bearings.

Not completely. Has been known on some Rover V8 engines but it is like playing a bit of Russian Roulette. You never know. Most times it is not a problem but it is worth checking or being aware that there might be some damage.

[RUSSELLM]

There's something very sinister about that smiley on Jools reply...

[SXS]

Yup, like always, he's up to something!