Fuelling problem
Discussion
I'm having a few running issues with the Chim, it runs fine for about 30mins of driving then the fuel relay chatters and the engine dies and won't restart. After 5mins the car will restart only to run fine for 10mins before the relay chatters and the engine dies again.
I've changed the relay - no effect. So now i've disconected the +ve side of the pump and run separate wire to the pump from the battery, which runs the pump, but the relay still intemitantly chatters and the engine stutters, but keeps running provided I keed the revs up and don't stop at any junctions.
It would not be so bad, but I'm 2 hours from home staying with family in Hungerford, Wilts, so any ideas to avoid an AA low loader is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I've changed the relay - no effect. So now i've disconected the +ve side of the pump and run separate wire to the pump from the battery, which runs the pump, but the relay still intemitantly chatters and the engine stutters, but keeps running provided I keed the revs up and don't stop at any junctions.
It would not be so bad, but I'm 2 hours from home staying with family in Hungerford, Wilts, so any ideas to avoid an AA low loader is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
If this has just happened yesterday, does the battery seem to be 100%? Ie does it turn the engine over fast?
I had this "need to keep the revs up" issue about 10 miles before the car died completely. In my case it was the 100 amp fuse in two pieces. I had been running on battery fir about 60 miles. Posted on here while waiting fir the RAC and was given the location of the fuse, which is strapped to the underside of the chassis where the lower rear arm or the offside front wishbone meets the chassis.
I had this "need to keep the revs up" issue about 10 miles before the car died completely. In my case it was the 100 amp fuse in two pieces. I had been running on battery fir about 60 miles. Posted on here while waiting fir the RAC and was given the location of the fuse, which is strapped to the underside of the chassis where the lower rear arm or the offside front wishbone meets the chassis.
Jonny, if you have run a live feed directly from the battery to the fuel pump, I can't see how a faulty chattering relay would have any effect on the fuel supply.
Have you considered it actually may not be a fuel related issue?
As I'm sure you are aware there are two of the metal body Bosch relays that hang in the footwell, one for the fuel pump that you've already replaced, and one for the ECU.
Are you 100% sure it's the fuel pump relay that's chattering and not the ECU one?
Also consider there are other relays involved too, there are relays buried inside the immobiliser that play their part.
These immobiliser relays are notoriously unreliable because TVR wired them incorrectly.
Nine times out of ten it's the failure of these immobiliser relays that are the true source of the infamous & very common hot start issue that all Chims & Griffs seem to suffer at some point in their life.
If the immobiliser relays are failing when hot they may be providing an intermittent live supply to the main relays in the footwell, this would make them chatter.
So dont be surprised if you change the chattering footwell relay only find the new one chatters just the same, you need to look at where the chattering relay is getting it's power from, not the chattering relay itself.
I would be tempted to complete a temporary bypass of the immobiliser, then drive the car to see if the main running issue & the chattering relay condition disappears.
In fear of stating the obvious, always keep in mind the engine not only needs a good fuel supply to run, it needs a spark too.
My money is on those relays inside the immobiliser, if you need help bypassing it by all means send me a PM.
Have you considered it actually may not be a fuel related issue?
As I'm sure you are aware there are two of the metal body Bosch relays that hang in the footwell, one for the fuel pump that you've already replaced, and one for the ECU.
Are you 100% sure it's the fuel pump relay that's chattering and not the ECU one?
Also consider there are other relays involved too, there are relays buried inside the immobiliser that play their part.
These immobiliser relays are notoriously unreliable because TVR wired them incorrectly.
Nine times out of ten it's the failure of these immobiliser relays that are the true source of the infamous & very common hot start issue that all Chims & Griffs seem to suffer at some point in their life.
If the immobiliser relays are failing when hot they may be providing an intermittent live supply to the main relays in the footwell, this would make them chatter.
So dont be surprised if you change the chattering footwell relay only find the new one chatters just the same, you need to look at where the chattering relay is getting it's power from, not the chattering relay itself.
I would be tempted to complete a temporary bypass of the immobiliser, then drive the car to see if the main running issue & the chattering relay condition disappears.
In fear of stating the obvious, always keep in mind the engine not only needs a good fuel supply to run, it needs a spark too.
My money is on those relays inside the immobiliser, if you need help bypassing it by all means send me a PM.
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