Engine re-build - Stealth Cam Characteristics
Discussion
I just had a full re-build of the engine on my Chim 500 after being advised the cam' was on its way out. They also found bearings were looking bad too so ended up with an expensive job overall. Only 32,000 miles on clock and car never thrashed/tracked! Was told low milers can suffer this through a lack of use. I went with a new Stealth cam' and have done about 600 miles since the re-build .... oil changed from mineral to proper stuff after 500 miles.
What I do notice is that there is a sort of constant ticking sound from the engine while driving. Can't hear it at higher speeds due to road noise etc but certainly at lower speeds with roof off it's noticable and I don't remember having this before. Power delivery is fine.... lot's of it and very smooth delivery.
Has anyone else had a re-build with a Stealth cam and if so did they notice a different sound from the engine (in particular this ticking sound) ... maybe a characteristic of the cam or maybe I need to run her in a little more?? Reported this to company who did the re-build at 500 mile oil change and they checked manifold bolts were tight etc. Your experiences welcome. Thanks
What I do notice is that there is a sort of constant ticking sound from the engine while driving. Can't hear it at higher speeds due to road noise etc but certainly at lower speeds with roof off it's noticable and I don't remember having this before. Power delivery is fine.... lot's of it and very smooth delivery.
Has anyone else had a re-build with a Stealth cam and if so did they notice a different sound from the engine (in particular this ticking sound) ... maybe a characteristic of the cam or maybe I need to run her in a little more?? Reported this to company who did the re-build at 500 mile oil change and they checked manifold bolts were tight etc. Your experiences welcome. Thanks
Edited by Vmax64 on Monday 10th September 18:28
Thanks for the reply. Invoice breakdown doesn't mention injectors so probably not. Oil changed as was told to bring it back after 500 miles or so to replace the mineral stuff. I mentioned the ticking noise when having the oil change so they checked everything was tightened up and said the oil change could make a difference .... but it hasn't. Rather than waste my time and theirs by taking it back again just thought I'd see if anyone on here thought this was normal or not.
SILICONEKID340HP said:
Did you have new injectors ? other than that it might be the exhaust manifold leaking ..
I would not put fully synthetic oil in after 500 miles ! You could have bore glaze !I would keep with mineral for a few thousand miles or leave it on mineral (Valoline VR1)
agree with this 500 miles is too early to go synthetic need a couple of thousand miles firstI would not put fully synthetic oil in after 500 miles ! You could have bore glaze !I would keep with mineral for a few thousand miles or leave it on mineral (Valoline VR1)
Hmmmmm.......my 70,000 mile standard 400 Chimaera has just gone to be checked over after a couple of hot hard track days, and leaking exhaust manifolds were reported back to me (among other things).......and I had noticed a certain amount of "ticking" too,. as well as a slight roughness in the engine (felt like it was running on 7.5 cylinders). Could just be a co-incidence.
haircutmike said:
Not so simple, the bottom ones are a barsteward!
Starter has to come out to check properly nd you can only get an open ender on some so not ideal.
Go and have a moan at them armed with the above.
Also, borrow a stethascope or a length of rubber tube to carefully check.
LOL - how long do you reckon it takes to change a set of manifold gaskets? I just got two estimates (I asked for a "best guess on the understanding that things could go titsup.com during") on doing my manifold gaskets as I heard mine ticking under load when I was out and about last week...Starter has to come out to check properly nd you can only get an open ender on some so not ideal.
Go and have a moan at them armed with the above.
Also, borrow a stethascope or a length of rubber tube to carefully check.
One estimate was £150 + VAT and the other was £400 + VAT!
Phil
Bassfiend said:
LOL - how long do you reckon it takes to change a set of manifold gaskets? I just got two estimates (I asked for a "best guess on the understanding that things could go titsup.com during") on doing my manifold gaskets as I heard mine ticking under load when I was out and about last week...
One estimate was £150 + VAT and the other was £400 + VAT!
Phil
Hi Phil, I recommend paying the £180.One estimate was £150 + VAT and the other was £400 + VAT!
Phil
Trust me, it's not a job you want to do yourself if you can help it.
Supply your fitter with stainless ARP bolts and Nordlock washers.
ChimpofDarkness said:
Bassfiend said:
LOL - how long do you reckon it takes to change a set of manifold gaskets? I just got two estimates (I asked for a "best guess on the understanding that things could go titsup.com during") on doing my manifold gaskets as I heard mine ticking under load when I was out and about last week...
One estimate was £150 + VAT and the other was £400 + VAT!
Phil
Hi Phil, I recommend paying the £180.One estimate was £150 + VAT and the other was £400 + VAT!
Phil
Trust me, it's not a job you want to do yourself if you can help it.
Supply your fitter with stainless ARP bolts and Nordlock washers.
Stainless hex head bolts / washers are already waiting in the back of the car and the manifold gaskets shoudl be here this week I reckon...
Phil
haircutmike said:
Take it to a prioer tiv expert, probably 2 hours work.
Both costs are from garages that seem pretty experienced with Tivs in that both garages are run by guys that own (or have owned) Chimaeras themselves...haircutmike said:
The good guys are quick.
I must try telling my GF that...haircutmike said:
Neil Garners main mechanic changed my clutch within a couple of hours.
I suspect that he practiced on mine ... took them about five hours to do when I took mine in. haircutmike said:
Anyhoo, you should be taking it back, (OP that is!).
Absolutely!P
With the ARP bolts you can use a 6 Point Teng Tools 1/4in drive deep socket (7/16 AF)
Teng part no: M140214
I have two, one with a 19mm wheel nut welded on it which allows me to get a spanner on it.
Even with the ARP bolts you need a selection of 7/16 spanners, adapted sockets (as above) & short 1/4 drive extensions.
The smaller 7/16 head of the ARP bolts certainly makes the job easier, but TBH it's still a job I would rather avoid.
The Nordlocks do seem to work but you need to cram up the bolts to get the ramping action to work & the teeth to bite.
You really need stainless Nordlocks to match the ARP bolts which are hard as hell.
Even after all this & the proper large port metalised gaskets fitted, I still had one flange that would chuff every 1000 miles or so, requiring repeated further tightening.
I hate hearing the chuffing noise that quickly becomes a metalic tick, it spoils the pleasure of accelerating in my opinion, my ear is now so tuned to it I can hear one flange starting to chuff & it sounds like crap.
I finally sorted it with my adapted Teng six sided socket, using a swan neck ring spanner on the nut welded to the socket I was finally able to apply sufficient torque to the ARP bolt for the Nordlock washer to ramp & bite.
All 8 flanges are now 100% permanently sealed, it's one hell of a job that you most definitely do not want to do twice.
You certainly don't want to mess about using inferior bolts or gaskets or you will be tweaking them up every few hundred miles and you won't want to do that given the nightmare accessibility issues.
Do it right, do it once.
Teng part no: M140214
I have two, one with a 19mm wheel nut welded on it which allows me to get a spanner on it.
Even with the ARP bolts you need a selection of 7/16 spanners, adapted sockets (as above) & short 1/4 drive extensions.
The smaller 7/16 head of the ARP bolts certainly makes the job easier, but TBH it's still a job I would rather avoid.
The Nordlocks do seem to work but you need to cram up the bolts to get the ramping action to work & the teeth to bite.
You really need stainless Nordlocks to match the ARP bolts which are hard as hell.
Even after all this & the proper large port metalised gaskets fitted, I still had one flange that would chuff every 1000 miles or so, requiring repeated further tightening.
I hate hearing the chuffing noise that quickly becomes a metalic tick, it spoils the pleasure of accelerating in my opinion, my ear is now so tuned to it I can hear one flange starting to chuff & it sounds like crap.
I finally sorted it with my adapted Teng six sided socket, using a swan neck ring spanner on the nut welded to the socket I was finally able to apply sufficient torque to the ARP bolt for the Nordlock washer to ramp & bite.
All 8 flanges are now 100% permanently sealed, it's one hell of a job that you most definitely do not want to do twice.
You certainly don't want to mess about using inferior bolts or gaskets or you will be tweaking them up every few hundred miles and you won't want to do that given the nightmare accessibility issues.
Do it right, do it once.
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