Removing scratches - Polish whole panel?
Removing scratches - Polish whole panel?
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Craikeybaby

Original Poster:

11,759 posts

246 months

Thursday 13th September 2012
quotequote all
The rear bumper on my MX-5 has picked up an area of scratches, I think someone may have brushed against it. I have bought some polish to sort it out, but as I've only detailed new cars I haven't had to use polish before.

Should I polish the whole panel or just the scratched area?
I know I'll need to reapply wax after I've polished, but will I need to clay the bumper before using the polish?

mneame

1,486 posts

232 months

Thursday 13th September 2012
quotequote all
If you only polish the scratch area you'll have a nice shiny patch and the rest will be weathered etc. Best bet would be to polish the whole car to get an even finish.

kds keltec

1,365 posts

211 months

Thursday 13th September 2012
quotequote all
The truth is its up to you its your car.

You can polish just the area effected , if you notice this area is better then maybe polish whole bumper,
but if the bumper is better than rest of the car then when do you stop wink

always wax after compounding (i think thats what you mean by polish)to protect the paint finish as the cutting compound will of removed old wax IF there was any still on paint.

From my website guide section.


Understanding Paint Correction

You start with different grades of compound to remove small amounts of the paint surface (depending on the condition of the paintwork). The cutting ability of the compound determines how much paint is removed with each revolution of the polisher. The coarser compounds might make the paint look cloudy, whereas finer compounds will create a glossy/polished finish. Each compound plays an important part to paint correction, having a specific purpose and application. No matter which method you choose for paint correction (hand, rotary or dual action polishing), the basics stay the same. You start with removing heavy imperfections and gradually decrease abrasive materials until you have reached the ultimate paint finish. Below shows some of the highest quality products used by KDS to produce the unbelievable paint finishes.

Abrasive Paper - Ultrafine grades of sandpaper (between 1200 and 3000 grit) can be used to level paint finish and remove imperfections like orange peel.

Compound - Or sometime called rubbing compound. Used to remove heavy contamination, oxidisation, scratches, swirl marks and many other imperfections.

Polish - Less abrasive than a compound, designed to remove light scratches, contamination, swirl marks, oxidisation and other defects.

Glaze - A glaze is not abrasive, so will not remove defects or imperfections. It will improve the gloss finish by temporarily filling in swirl marks or other minor defects.

Pre-Wax Cleaner - Less abrasive than a polish, containing chemical cleaners to help remove very minor imperfections.


and yes it would be better to clay bar before hand but not strictly needed .

again from my guides section

How Does Clay Work?

Detailing clay is a "selective polish" with a built in applicator, it's job is to 'polish away' dirt and surface contamination from your paint, chrome, glass and plastic without polishing the surface itself. Detailing clay works by floating over the surface on a layer of clay lubricant, when the clay meets surface contamination it detaches it leaving your paint smooth.

There are different grades of clay:

Professional grade clay is designed to remove paint overspray, this clay is very firm and contains abrasives equivalent to a heavy rubbing compound.

Detailing grade clays are designed to be used as a twice/three times a year paint maintenance tool prior to waxing.

Ultra fine clay is so fine it is safe to be used monthly to keep your paint smooth and clean.

Assessing Your Paint

How will you know when you need to use a clay bar? After you have washed and dried your vehicle, run your hand over the paintwork. If it feels rough, this is contamination. Removing these contaminants (dirt, grit, tar, bugs, brake dust etc.) will improve the look and feel of your vehicles paint finish.

How To Use Clay

Using clay is very simple, only if you follow the instructions. Used incorrectly will increase the risk of adding more marks and scuffs into your paintwork. Before you start claying your vehicle, you must wash and dry your vehicle to remove any loose dirt.

When using clay always use plenty of spray lubricant, the clay bar is sticky and cannot be used dry. Trying to use dry clay will make a mess of your paintwork. Working on a small area at a time to avoid missing any contamination. Once that area is free of contamination, buff the area to remove clay residue.



new site coming (maybe this week) that will have a massive resource area being complied for the future on all paint and detailing related questions and answers and how too's



HTH kelly

Craikeybaby

Original Poster:

11,759 posts

246 months

Friday 14th September 2012
quotequote all
Thanks for the detailed reply Kelly!

It is a compound I will be using - Menzerna Power Finish (203S), I'm still not 100% au fait with all the terms. Hopefully as the car is 18 months old and has been regularly washed the bumper won't look too much better than the rest of the car. I'll make sure I get some before/after pictures.

kds keltec

1,365 posts

211 months

Friday 14th September 2012
quotequote all
Craikeybaby said:
Thanks for the detailed reply Kelly!

It is a compound I will be using - Menzerna Power Finish (203S), I'm still not 100% au fait with all the terms. Hopefully as the car is 18 months old and has been regularly washed the bumper won't look too much better than the rest of the car. I'll make sure I get some before/after pictures.
take your time and it will work ok for you , do a bit of googling too about how to polish back , or let me help you.

how are you using the compound , by hand DA machine or Rotary machine ?

kelly

Craikeybaby

Original Poster:

11,759 posts

246 months

Friday 14th September 2012
quotequote all
I am applying it by hand, although if that doesn't get rid of the scratches it's the excuse I need to get a DA!

My plan of attack is:
Wash
Clay
Mask plastic/lights
Compound/polish - a couple of pea sized blobs on the pad worked in different directions over a 12" x 12" area until the polish goes transparent
Wax
Hopefully stand back and admire my scratch free bumper!

kds keltec

1,365 posts

211 months

Friday 14th September 2012
quotequote all
Craikeybaby said:
I am applying it by hand, although if that doesn't get rid of the scratches it's the excuse I need to get a DA!

My plan of attack is:
Wash
Clay
Mask plastic/lights
Compound/polish - a couple of pea sized blobs on the pad worked in different directions over a 12" x 12" area until the polish goes transparent
Wax
Hopefully stand back and admire my scratch free bumper!
sounds all good so far ,

the bit about going transparent is sort of correct , but IF after first attempt damage is still there then no need to keep working the compound down until is actually broken down (diminished/transparent) while this happens you are finishing the paint to a very good "finish" then going back over same area with aggressive compound to start with that then breaks down again .

The breaking down bit only needs to actually on the last passes , or its a waste of your time , same goes for machine correction , the amount of guys i have trained that fully diminish each and every pass of the machine polisher seems very weird to me that you finish the paint "well" then start again as the deeper marks and damage are still their so undoing the time taken to finish down the paint as when you start again the compound is "sharper in cut" ?

This of course is not the same case for non diminishing compounds thou.

HTH kelly

Edited by kds keltec on Friday 14th September 15:34