MK Indy overheating - suggestions invited
Discussion
Its got the largest rad that Radtech could build that fits into the L7 nose. But its still way smaller the Tuscan rad the 4.0 speedsix came out of, lol. Its ok above 40mph, but drop below that for any length of time and its in boil over territory. The options seem limited, and the only solution I can think of is a big rad behind the seats over the petrol tank. It would be hard to make it look good though. Any other ideas from experienced builders / mechnaics out there. The lump is huge and the chassis is a foot longer than standard to accommodate it, but theres next to no room left anywhere else. TIA
SkyUK said:
Its got the largest rad that Radtech could build that fits into the L7 nose. But its still way smaller the Tuscan rad the 4.0 speedsix came out of, lol. Its ok above 40mph, but drop below that for any length of time and its in boil over territory. The options seem limited, and the only solution I can think of is a big rad behind the seats over the petrol tank. It would be hard to make it look good though. Any other ideas from experienced builders / mechnaics out there. The lump is huge and the chassis is a foot longer than standard to accommodate it, but theres next to no room left anywhere else. TIA
I ran an m3 engine with a radtech radiator and zero issues. Have you thought about getting heat out of the engine bay? Any issues with your install?jason61c said:
I ran an m3 engine with a radtech radiator and zero issues. Have you thought about getting heat out of the engine bay? Any issues with your install?
I bought it 
The engine bay certainly gets hot but there are huge holes in the bonnet to vent it. Having said that the bonnet is so hot after a run its hard to hold. How much does heat loss from the engine surface assist in the cooling? I hadn't thought of that.I could wrap the exhaust manifolds & cats - not sure what that would do to the life of those bits. I could do something to duct air past the exhausts and and out of the engine bay so try to vent heat that way.
Edited by SkyUK on Saturday 15th September 20:18
Venting air from the engine bay isn't so much as venting heat direct from the engine, but more the hot air from the rad' has to go somewhere. Hence the suggestion to vent the rad out the top of the nose like some Caterhams and Westys. Is the bottom of the car completely paneled? That would make it worst.
What do you have as mesh in the grill? Expanded ally/steel mesh if not very good for air flow and has caused problems for severl kits before. Woven mesh is better.
Can the air get past the rad rather than through it? If so panel around to duct the air ONLY through the rad'.
Try some "water wetter". It does help the water transfer it's heat better.
What do you have as mesh in the grill? Expanded ally/steel mesh if not very good for air flow and has caused problems for severl kits before. Woven mesh is better.
Can the air get past the rad rather than through it? If so panel around to duct the air ONLY through the rad'.
Try some "water wetter". It does help the water transfer it's heat better.
As others have said, make sure the nose is fully cowled so all air has to go through the rad. Then make sure you've got the biggest electric fan sucking air through the rad or if you can, fit two fans side by side. Kenlowe or pactel fans shift the most air volume. Set up one or two thermostats to switch the fans on at different temps so say one coming on at 60 degrees, then the second kicks in at say 75 or whatever works by trial and error.
Then think about getting the hot air out of the engine bay. Generally you should have at least three times the area for air to get out as to get in. Maybe duct the air over the engine and out the bottom or wherever you want it to exit.
Yes, you can wrap the exhaust but bear in mind that'll just move the heat from the headers down to cat back or wherever you stop so could jusy be moving the problem somewhere else.
But good luck
Then think about getting the hot air out of the engine bay. Generally you should have at least three times the area for air to get out as to get in. Maybe duct the air over the engine and out the bottom or wherever you want it to exit.
Yes, you can wrap the exhaust but bear in mind that'll just move the heat from the headers down to cat back or wherever you stop so could jusy be moving the problem somewhere else.
But good luck
AdiT said:
Venting air from the engine bay isn't so much as venting heat direct from the engine, but more the hot air from the rad' has to go somewhere. Hence the suggestion to vent the rad out the top of the nose like some Caterhams and Westys. Is the bottom of the car completely paneled? That would make it worst.
What do you have as mesh in the grill? Expanded ally/steel mesh if not very good for air flow and has caused problems for severl kits before. Woven mesh is better.
Can the air get past the rad rather than through it? If so panel around to duct the air ONLY through the rad'.
Try some "water wetter". It does help the water transfer it's heat better.
So take the hot air from the back of the rad and duct it out before it hits anything else. I'll have a llok a look at the mesh. I used water wetters when playing with computers, what products exist for cars? Thanks for the insights, very helpful.What do you have as mesh in the grill? Expanded ally/steel mesh if not very good for air flow and has caused problems for severl kits before. Woven mesh is better.
Can the air get past the rad rather than through it? If so panel around to duct the air ONLY through the rad'.
Try some "water wetter". It does help the water transfer it's heat better.
Edited by SkyUK on Sunday 16th September 00:56
ColinM50 said:
As others have said, make sure the nose is fully cowled so all air has to go through the rad. Then make sure you've got the biggest electric fan sucking air through the rad or if you can, fit two fans side by side. Kenlowe or pactel fans shift the most air volume. Set up one or two thermostats to switch the fans on at different temps so say one coming on at 60 degrees, then the second kicks in at say 75 or whatever works by trial and error.
Then think about getting the hot air out of the engine bay. Generally you should have at least three times the area for air to get out as to get in. Maybe duct the air over the engine and out the bottom or wherever you want it to exit.
Yes, you can wrap the exhaust but bear in mind that'll just move the heat from the headers down to cat back or wherever you stop so could jusy be moving the problem somewhere else.
But good luck
Thanks, I'll research those fans. I dont know what's fitted at the moment but it does cut in, and it clearly isnt man enough.Then think about getting the hot air out of the engine bay. Generally you should have at least three times the area for air to get out as to get in. Maybe duct the air over the engine and out the bottom or wherever you want it to exit.
Yes, you can wrap the exhaust but bear in mind that'll just move the heat from the headers down to cat back or wherever you stop so could jusy be moving the problem somewhere else.
But good luck
Do try the airflow management changes suggested, but have you checked to make sure the rad isn't partially blocked? Get a temperature probe (cooking type will do) and take the car for a run, then whilst it is idling check the rad at various places to make sure that there is a proper temp gradient from inlet to exit, and that there aren't any cool spots which would indicate a blockage.
How is the water pumped? There isn't an electric pump that's in the way instead of helping?
Does the fan actually work as it should?
How is the water pumped? There isn't an electric pump that's in the way instead of helping?
Does the fan actually work as it should?
Paul Drawmer said:
Do try the airflow management changes suggested, but have you checked to make sure the rad isn't partially blocked? Get a temperature probe (cooking type will do) and take the car for a run, then whilst it is idling check the rad at various places to make sure that there is a proper temp gradient from inlet to exit, and that there aren't any cool spots which would indicate a blockage.
How is the water pumped? There isn't an electric pump that's in the way instead of helping?
Does the fan actually work as it should?
Thanks, I'll do that too. The standard speedsix water pump is in use I believe. I'll trace the water run and make sure.How is the water pumped? There isn't an electric pump that's in the way instead of helping?
Does the fan actually work as it should?
ColinM50 said:
Good point, it'd be dead easy to have wired it wrong so the fan's blowing instead of sucking.
And on that point a fan that's inside the rad and sucking is much more efficient than a fan in front of the rad and blowing.
Lol, I didnt think of that, I'll do some basic checks on the fan to make sure its installed correctly And on that point a fan that's inside the rad and sucking is much more efficient than a fan in front of the rad and blowing.
Yes it is. Behind the rad and sucking.
Edited by SkyUK on Sunday 16th September 13:54
To assist the situation an earlier opening thermostat, this with a fan temp switch that runs earlier gives the cooling system a 6 degree advantage on my set up.
Warm up takes a little longer but running temp is much reduced.
Wrapping the exhaust and the cats which run very hot will help.
Heat shields to stop radiated heat from the cats
More flow through ventilation
You realy need to use all the tips until you get the heat managed
Warm up takes a little longer but running temp is much reduced.
Wrapping the exhaust and the cats which run very hot will help.
Heat shields to stop radiated heat from the cats
More flow through ventilation
You realy need to use all the tips until you get the heat managed
PaulKemp said:
To assist the situation an earlier opening thermostat, this with a fan temp switch that runs earlier gives the cooling system a 6 degree advantage on my set up.
Warm up takes a little longer but running temp is much reduced.
Wrapping the exhaust and the cats which run very hot will help.
Heat shields to stop radiated heat from the cats
More flow through ventilation
You realy need to use all the tips until you get the heat managed
Really useful info, thanks to all for the input. Over colder months I'll work up trial some solutions and see how it goes.Warm up takes a little longer but running temp is much reduced.
Wrapping the exhaust and the cats which run very hot will help.
Heat shields to stop radiated heat from the cats
More flow through ventilation
You realy need to use all the tips until you get the heat managed
if all else fails an elec water pump and controller would surely do the trick? i know this comparison is apples + pears, but i inherited a zetec that has a davies/craig elec pump with no controller.....which is about to be rectified, because i'm not seeing the temp get higher than 80 even in traffic jams. Just a thought......
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