DIY clutch change
DIY clutch change
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Discussion

Toady1

Original Poster:

1,622 posts

248 months

Tuesday 18th September 2012
quotequote all
Hi guys, I asked this question in the tuscan section but don't think there are as many 'hands on home mechanics' in that neck of the woods, so assuming the gearbox and bell housing is pretty similar on the cerbs....here is my question!-

Hi, we're doing the clutch on my friends new purchase this weekend after his slave seals went, so after some hints tips or advice from fellow spanner wielders who have done it on their drive before! Thanks in advance!

Tanguero

4,535 posts

225 months

Tuesday 18th September 2012
quotequote all
http://www.thetvrsite.com/cerbera/how-to-replace-t...

Though it's for an AJP 8 not a Speed 6

brakedust

1,059 posts

233 months

Tuesday 18th September 2012
quotequote all
On the V8 you need to leaver the exhausts out of the way, that was the biggest problem that I came up against. Other than that its a simple job really!

Toady1

Original Poster:

1,622 posts

248 months

Tuesday 18th September 2012
quotequote all
Thanks guys, knew I'd have more response from the cerbera bunch! ha ha!

Cerbieherts

1,652 posts

165 months

Tuesday 18th September 2012
quotequote all
and try not to yank the manifolds about to much (easier said than done!) as they can be cracked....

ukkid35

6,395 posts

197 months

Tuesday 18th September 2012
quotequote all
Cerbieherts said:
and try not to yank the manifolds about to much (easier said than done!) as they can be cracked....
It's worth factoring in the extra time it takes to drop the manifolds vs the possibility of encouraging cracks.

Toady1

Original Poster:

1,622 posts

248 months

Tuesday 18th September 2012
quotequote all
Just to note:- I'm doing it on a Tuscan so it doesn't have the manifolds in the way, but thanks anyway.

ukkid35

6,395 posts

197 months

Tuesday 18th September 2012
quotequote all
Are you replacing the seals or the whole slave?

Toady1

Original Poster:

1,622 posts

248 months

Tuesday 18th September 2012
quotequote all
Ive got a whole new slave to assemble. The slave seals are what has gone on the car, but whilst doing the job of replacing the slave I'm replacing the whole clutch too as we think its on the original one and the car has now done 21k miles.

ukkid35

6,395 posts

197 months

Wednesday 19th September 2012
quotequote all
I have no idea whether the RP Slave I've just fitted will last longer than the original slave with new seals - but I am desperately hoping that it will. I'm not sure why you're fitting a new slave (unless it's RP), rather than just replacing seals, but replacing the clutch pack at 21k doesn't seem such a bad idea. I don't think £550 is actually too bad (and I'm really tight), so that was a wise move.

esso

1,849 posts

241 months

Wednesday 19th September 2012
quotequote all
Toady1 said:
Ive got a whole new slave to assemble. The slave seals are what has gone on the car, but whilst doing the job of replacing the slave I'm replacing the whole clutch too as we think its on the original one and the car has now done 21k miles.
Check your fly-wheel is not scored or marked too while you have it apart,you can always get it skimmed.

Toady1

Original Poster:

1,622 posts

248 months

Wednesday 19th September 2012
quotequote all
The latset slaves are supposed to be a slightly better design so we went with a new one along with new seals and bearing. It's a no brainer to do the clutch at the same time obviously. Yes I will check the flywheel but pretty confident all will be fine as the clutch itself was absolutely fine in action until the seals went. Thanks for the replies guys.

crypto

240 posts

265 months

Thursday 20th September 2012
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What is the thickness of your new clutch plates ? (At the moment I have mine out as well and thought about replacing them).

Ta, Peter

Toady1

Original Poster:

1,622 posts

248 months

Thursday 20th September 2012
quotequote all
there is a little receipt type thing in the kit which I think is saying what the clutch plate thick ness is, IIRC it was around 2.6mm but I'll check in a bit and measure them myself for you.

This DIY clutch change on the drive isn't the easiest thing to do as I found tonight! To get to the top started motor bolt I take it I have to remove the air box? Its the last bolt holding the bell housing on. Slave seals were well and truly gone! Fluid poured out the box when I pulled it apart.

Toady1

Original Poster:

1,622 posts

248 months

Thursday 20th September 2012
quotequote all
Just checked, receipt says between 2.25 - 2.27 but I measure average 3.02-3.05 mm.

Toady1

Original Poster:

1,622 posts

248 months

Friday 21st September 2012
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Well the job was completed tonight! Not too difficult to do on the drive on some ramps after all! Just need to let it sttle in and then re-bleed the clutch....oh and go for a damn good test drive!

crypto

240 posts

265 months

Sunday 23rd September 2012
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Toady1 said:
Just checked, receipt says between 2.25 - 2.27 but I measure average 3.02-3.05 mm.
Liam,
not sure if we are talking about the same thing, my (old) clutch plates are each about 7mmm thick.
this is what I ment http://www.tvrpower.co.uk/store/slug/a-p-racing-cl...

Peter

Toady1

Original Poster:

1,622 posts

248 months

Sunday 23rd September 2012
quotequote all
Ha ha yes Peter I knew what you meant by clutch plates, it would be about that yes as I was taking a measurement of each side of the friction material for you as thought that was what you meant? The old clutch that was taken out was barely worn and not much less material than the new one.