What's your 'default' camera setting?
Discussion
Obviously it helps to set the camera up specifically for different shots, but do you have a default setting that you tend to use if you're just wandering round snapping?
I've never been especially happy with the exposure on my 400D's auto settings, but actually the best stationary shots I took at the Goodwood Revival last weekend were all on the same setting - aperture variation mode and about f4. There was nothing startling artistic, but it seemed to work better as starting point for taking stills than anything else I tried.
I've never been especially happy with the exposure on my 400D's auto settings, but actually the best stationary shots I took at the Goodwood Revival last weekend were all on the same setting - aperture variation mode and about f4. There was nothing startling artistic, but it seemed to work better as starting point for taking stills than anything else I tried.
For 'default' settings, I usually try to leave the camera in aperture priority @ f4, iso 200 and -1/3 exposure comp. - for most (daylight) conditions you'll get a decent quality snap, important if you don't have time to configure your camera before the moment passes.
Generally I use mainly aperture and manual, but sometimes shutter priority. I unexpectedly found the C settings* Craikey mentioned (on my 5dmk2 there are 3 of them) extremely useful, for locations with very different lighting conditions. For example, last month at the Nurburgring I was walking in and out of the pit garages, going from bright mid-day sun to relative darkness, and back again many times over. Since the C-modes also remember the ISO settings, you can flick between high ISO/large aperture and low ISO/smaller aperture with a single click of the mode dial. Less time fiddling and more time shooting!
* For anyone who doesn't know, it's basically an extra mode/s you can save the current settings into, so you can use it to set up the camera completely differently from the regular mode and flip between them. So it can be set to aperture, shutter or manual.
Generally I use mainly aperture and manual, but sometimes shutter priority. I unexpectedly found the C settings* Craikey mentioned (on my 5dmk2 there are 3 of them) extremely useful, for locations with very different lighting conditions. For example, last month at the Nurburgring I was walking in and out of the pit garages, going from bright mid-day sun to relative darkness, and back again many times over. Since the C-modes also remember the ISO settings, you can flick between high ISO/large aperture and low ISO/smaller aperture with a single click of the mode dial. Less time fiddling and more time shooting!
* For anyone who doesn't know, it's basically an extra mode/s you can save the current settings into, so you can use it to set up the camera completely differently from the regular mode and flip between them. So it can be set to aperture, shutter or manual.
Edited by tim-b on Wednesday 19th September 13:15
C1 for me is ISO 100, F11, 1/60th, mirror lockup, one shot focus, a starting point for my tripod based landscapes (eg 99% of what I do)
C2 is ISO100, f11, bulb, mirror lockup and one shot focus, a starting point for long exposures
C3 is ISO100, f11, 1/60th and 5 bracketed shots up to +/- 3 stops to use for HDR
Needless to say these are just a quick starting point, I'll adapt them as necessary, it just makes the job a bit quicker if you're trying to set up qucikly to catch the light.
C2 is ISO100, f11, bulb, mirror lockup and one shot focus, a starting point for long exposures
C3 is ISO100, f11, 1/60th and 5 bracketed shots up to +/- 3 stops to use for HDR
Needless to say these are just a quick starting point, I'll adapt them as necessary, it just makes the job a bit quicker if you're trying to set up qucikly to catch the light.
From my early photography of mainly motorsport, I still tend to stick to shutter prioroty as default. Generally starting about 1/250 @ 200ASA. and letting the aperture look after itself, but I'm begining to think a lot more now about settings and effects I want and adjusting accordingly.
I generally use manual all the time, it's only when I'm trying to catch something fast moving that I'll go into shutter priority.
So centre focus and metering, shutter speed generally above 1/125 and f8 with ISo 100. Adjust from there.
I'm using the c1,2and 3 modes more now for switching between different types of shots
So centre focus and metering, shutter speed generally above 1/125 and f8 with ISo 100. Adjust from there.
I'm using the c1,2and 3 modes more now for switching between different types of shots
I generally use manual all the time, it's only when I'm trying to catch something fast moving that I'll go into shutter priority.
So centre focus and metering, shutter speed generally above 1/125 and f8 with ISo 100. Adjust from there.
I'm using the c1,2and 3 modes more now for switching between different types of shots
So centre focus and metering, shutter speed generally above 1/125 and f8 with ISo 100. Adjust from there.
I'm using the c1,2and 3 modes more now for switching between different types of shots
MrFrodo said:
I've never been especially happy with the exposure on my 400D's auto settings, but actually the best stationary shots I took at the Goodwood Revival last weekend were all on the same setting - aperture variation mode and about f4. There was nothing startling artistic, but it seemed to work better as starting point for taking stills than anything else I tried.
Not sure about other cameras, but the 400D (I have a few) does get horribly confused with tarmac and sky for exposure. If I'm working on a shot I'll have two ND grads on the front; ND4 Grad for the tarmac, and an ND8 Grad for the sky. And shoot in RAW so that in final processing you can pull up/down the highlights/shadows and give yourself that little extra dynamic range.It's a bit of a mess having two filters on the camera, but it seems to do the job nicely. The key is to have the filters right out - the last thing you want to see is a graduated line of darkness going across the image.
As for mode, I'll shoot in Av if I want control over aperture, and Tv if I want control over speed. There is no single mode. (Green/Idiot mode is used for anything family and indoor that requires flash). And if I really can't be arsed to think, I'll slap the camera in P(rofessional) mode
Always run a 400D at ISO100 whenever possible as noise becomes a mess at anything higher, although I did shoot a lot this summer at ISO400, it wasn't through choice but crappy lighting. Needs must as the
...and then to answer the question....
For Non-Nikon users, I expect you have something similar, but you should know that Nikon have two sets of presets called the "Custom Settings Bank" menu and the "Shooting Menu Bank". I'd like to know what newcomers make of these, but they baffle the hell out of me sometimes and frustrate that they're buried in the menus.
The two "menus" do different things so you could work up to a combination of 16 (four squared - they each have default A-D) different sets of parameters. Starts to get mind-boggling. I used to just lose interest on my old Brick (D2X) - but the new Briquette has been set up to use basically A with A, B with B and C with C to give me three "starting points" (Don't get me started on how, when you adjust stuff, Nikon in their Incredibly clever logic think you want to have revised settings.... )
So I renamed them and basically have: STATIC/SINGLE, MOVING and PEOPLE and in each one I have the minutiae of file naming, ISO auto limits, autofocus behaviours and metering parameters optimised for those three "concepts".
Apart from this, my default lens settings are f/4 (and I am delighted that all but one lens (a G-type) allow me to set aperture with a flick of the wrist, just like "proper" cameras always used to allow!!!) and I am a convert to Auto ISO with a very conservative 1/two times focal length setting.
My "function" buttons are set to "viewfinder spirit level" and spot metering.
FWIW, that's what I do, but I don't suppose it's much interest/help to anybody else!
For Non-Nikon users, I expect you have something similar, but you should know that Nikon have two sets of presets called the "Custom Settings Bank" menu and the "Shooting Menu Bank". I'd like to know what newcomers make of these, but they baffle the hell out of me sometimes and frustrate that they're buried in the menus.
The two "menus" do different things so you could work up to a combination of 16 (four squared - they each have default A-D) different sets of parameters. Starts to get mind-boggling. I used to just lose interest on my old Brick (D2X) - but the new Briquette has been set up to use basically A with A, B with B and C with C to give me three "starting points" (Don't get me started on how, when you adjust stuff, Nikon in their Incredibly clever logic think you want to have revised settings.... )
So I renamed them and basically have: STATIC/SINGLE, MOVING and PEOPLE and in each one I have the minutiae of file naming, ISO auto limits, autofocus behaviours and metering parameters optimised for those three "concepts".
Apart from this, my default lens settings are f/4 (and I am delighted that all but one lens (a G-type) allow me to set aperture with a flick of the wrist, just like "proper" cameras always used to allow!!!) and I am a convert to Auto ISO with a very conservative 1/two times focal length setting.
My "function" buttons are set to "viewfinder spirit level" and spot metering.
FWIW, that's what I do, but I don't suppose it's much interest/help to anybody else!
JDRoest said:
Not sure about other cameras, but the 400D (I have a few) does get horribly confused with tarmac and sky for exposure. If I'm working on a shot I'll have two ND grads on the front; ND4 Grad for the tarmac, and an ND8 Grad for the sky. And shoot in RAW so that in final processing you can pull up/down the highlights/shadows and give yourself that little extra dynamic range.
It's a bit of a mess having two filters on the camera, but it seems to do the job nicely. The key is to have the filters right out - the last thing you want to see is a graduated line of darkness going across the image.
As for mode, I'll shoot in Av if I want control over aperture, and Tv if I want control over speed. There is no single mode. (Green/Idiot mode is used for anything family and indoor that requires flash). And if I really can't be arsed to think, I'll slap the camera in P(rofessional) mode
Always run a 400D at ISO100 whenever possible as noise becomes a mess at anything higher, although I did shoot a lot this summer at ISO400, it wasn't through choice but crappy lighting. Needs must as thedevil drives sun gets blocked out by clouds.
I agree, I cant really justify a new body but my 400D really is noisy too. But I havnt taken many photos recently and the ones I have have been strobed portraits so its not too badIt's a bit of a mess having two filters on the camera, but it seems to do the job nicely. The key is to have the filters right out - the last thing you want to see is a graduated line of darkness going across the image.
As for mode, I'll shoot in Av if I want control over aperture, and Tv if I want control over speed. There is no single mode. (Green/Idiot mode is used for anything family and indoor that requires flash). And if I really can't be arsed to think, I'll slap the camera in P(rofessional) mode
Always run a 400D at ISO100 whenever possible as noise becomes a mess at anything higher, although I did shoot a lot this summer at ISO400, it wasn't through choice but crappy lighting. Needs must as the
K12beano said:
...and then to answer the question....
For Non-Nikon users, I expect you have something similar, but you should know that Nikon have two sets of presets called the "Custom Settings Bank" menu and the "Shooting Menu Bank". I'd like to know what newcomers make of these, but they baffle the hell out of me sometimes and frustrate that they're buried in the menus.
The two "menus" do different things so you could work up to a combination of 16 (four squared - they each have default A-D) different sets of parameters. Starts to get mind-boggling. I used to just lose interest on my old Brick (D2X) - but the new Briquette has been set up to use basically A with A, B with B and C with C to give me three "starting points" (Don't get me started on how, when you adjust stuff, Nikon in their Incredibly clever logic think you want to have revised settings.... )
So I renamed them and basically have: STATIC/SINGLE, MOVING and PEOPLE and in each one I have the minutiae of file naming, ISO auto limits, autofocus behaviours and metering parameters optimised for those three "concepts".
Apart from this, my default lens settings are f/4 (and I am delighted that all but one lens (a G-type) allow me to set aperture with a flick of the wrist, just like "proper" cameras always used to allow!!!) and I am a convert to Auto ISO with a very conservative 1/two times focal length setting.
My "function" buttons are set to "viewfinder spirit level" and spot metering.
FWIW, that's what I do, but I don't suppose it's much interest/help to anybody else!
I too pair the AA, BB etc. A is general, B is landscape, C is portraits and D action. A has auto ISO with min shutter speed of 1/125s ans flash sync right down to slowest shutter, B and C are similar except for picture controls and D is auto ISO but set at 1600 and min shutter speed of 1/1000s.For Non-Nikon users, I expect you have something similar, but you should know that Nikon have two sets of presets called the "Custom Settings Bank" menu and the "Shooting Menu Bank". I'd like to know what newcomers make of these, but they baffle the hell out of me sometimes and frustrate that they're buried in the menus.
The two "menus" do different things so you could work up to a combination of 16 (four squared - they each have default A-D) different sets of parameters. Starts to get mind-boggling. I used to just lose interest on my old Brick (D2X) - but the new Briquette has been set up to use basically A with A, B with B and C with C to give me three "starting points" (Don't get me started on how, when you adjust stuff, Nikon in their Incredibly clever logic think you want to have revised settings.... )
So I renamed them and basically have: STATIC/SINGLE, MOVING and PEOPLE and in each one I have the minutiae of file naming, ISO auto limits, autofocus behaviours and metering parameters optimised for those three "concepts".
Apart from this, my default lens settings are f/4 (and I am delighted that all but one lens (a G-type) allow me to set aperture with a flick of the wrist, just like "proper" cameras always used to allow!!!) and I am a convert to Auto ISO with a very conservative 1/two times focal length setting.
My "function" buttons are set to "viewfinder spirit level" and spot metering.
FWIW, that's what I do, but I don't suppose it's much interest/help to anybody else!
Having said that I'd prefer just one set.
Oh and I have the function set to horizon indicator too.
K12beano said:
...and then to answer the question....
For Non-Nikon users, I expect you have something similar, but you should know that Nikon have two sets of presets called the "Custom Settings Bank" menu and the "Shooting Menu Bank". I'd like to know what newcomers make of these, but they baffle the hell out of me sometimes and frustrate that they're buried in the menus.
The two "menus" do different things so you could work up to a combination of 16 (four squared - they each have default A-D) different sets of parameters. Starts to get mind-boggling. I used to just lose interest on my old Brick (D2X) - but the new Briquette has been set up to use basically A with A, B with B and C with C to give me three "starting points" (Don't get me started on how, when you adjust stuff, Nikon in their Incredibly clever logic think you want to have revised settings.... )
So I renamed them and basically have: STATIC/SINGLE, MOVING and PEOPLE and in each one I have the minutiae of file naming, ISO auto limits, autofocus behaviours and metering parameters optimised for those three "concepts".
Apart from this, my default lens settings are f/4 (and I am delighted that all but one lens (a G-type) allow me to set aperture with a flick of the wrist, just like "proper" cameras always used to allow!!!) and I am a convert to Auto ISO with a very conservative 1/two times focal length setting.
My "function" buttons are set to "viewfinder spirit level" and spot metering.
FWIW, that's what I do, but I don't suppose it's much interest/help to anybody else!
Ahh. The old Nikon user profiles! I remember spending ages setting those up when I got my D300. By the time I upgraded to a D700, I just couldn't be bothered any more. If there was a switch on the outside to quickly flick between A and B or whatever, it would be great but the current system seems clumsy. I've basically only got one bank of settings. Have replicated it onto a second bank but the only difference is that one uses auto iso and one doesn't. For Non-Nikon users, I expect you have something similar, but you should know that Nikon have two sets of presets called the "Custom Settings Bank" menu and the "Shooting Menu Bank". I'd like to know what newcomers make of these, but they baffle the hell out of me sometimes and frustrate that they're buried in the menus.
The two "menus" do different things so you could work up to a combination of 16 (four squared - they each have default A-D) different sets of parameters. Starts to get mind-boggling. I used to just lose interest on my old Brick (D2X) - but the new Briquette has been set up to use basically A with A, B with B and C with C to give me three "starting points" (Don't get me started on how, when you adjust stuff, Nikon in their Incredibly clever logic think you want to have revised settings.... )
So I renamed them and basically have: STATIC/SINGLE, MOVING and PEOPLE and in each one I have the minutiae of file naming, ISO auto limits, autofocus behaviours and metering parameters optimised for those three "concepts".
Apart from this, my default lens settings are f/4 (and I am delighted that all but one lens (a G-type) allow me to set aperture with a flick of the wrist, just like "proper" cameras always used to allow!!!) and I am a convert to Auto ISO with a very conservative 1/two times focal length setting.
My "function" buttons are set to "viewfinder spirit level" and spot metering.
FWIW, that's what I do, but I don't suppose it's much interest/help to anybody else!
My function button settings are a bit special! This is probably going to sound a bit mad but it works for me. Lower Fn button does spot metering with a press or bracketing when operated in conjunction with wheels. The upper Fn button now does 'top menu item' which I have set as flash commander. It's great if you do much off camera flash as you can instantly tweak settings. I then have the exposure lock button set to DOF preview. Not sure about this one yet though, it's tempting to set that as virtual horizon as I'd maybe use it more. Actual exposure lock is done with a half press of the shutter as I always use back button focussing. Anybody who picks up my camera never has a clue how to use it!
I tried these custom banks to start with but they didn't change all the parameters I wanted, only some, so I didn't bother.
The most useful functions for me are zoom view on central press of multiselector (to check focus), and flash disable on lower button. This means I can take two shots in quick succession, one with fill flash and one without (so I can see which I like best later). I never use AF-ON and bracket manually.
The most useful functions for me are zoom view on central press of multiselector (to check focus), and flash disable on lower button. This means I can take two shots in quick succession, one with fill flash and one without (so I can see which I like best later). I never use AF-ON and bracket manually.
Gassing Station | Photography & Video | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff