Chim 400 - clutch change
Discussion
Hi All,
I'm in need of a replacement clutch (car will now not go into gear as the clutch pedal is rock-hard).
Is it ok job for a home mechanic willing to learn or am I better off getting it transported to a garage for them to do it?
It's a second car so if it's in bits for a couple of weeks its not an issue.
Also standard or uprated clutch? It's a standard car, not tracked and no plans to upgrade the power.
Cheers,
Phill
I'm in need of a replacement clutch (car will now not go into gear as the clutch pedal is rock-hard).
Is it ok job for a home mechanic willing to learn or am I better off getting it transported to a garage for them to do it?
It's a second car so if it's in bits for a couple of weeks its not an issue.
Also standard or uprated clutch? It's a standard car, not tracked and no plans to upgrade the power.
Cheers,
Phill
Reasonably simple task especially if you have a lift or pit. Go for it.... Top bell housing bolt is a bit restricted in access but no real problem with a selection of UJs and bars.
Helped a friend do his and was no problem at all once we figured you need to split the bell housing and box (T5) to get at the clutch due to the gear linkage bar which passes across the top of chassis and mounts to front of bell housing. Perhaps there is another way of doing it, but we could not work it out.
Sadly the clutch he had came with fault which meant he had to do it all again....
Matt
Helped a friend do his and was no problem at all once we figured you need to split the bell housing and box (T5) to get at the clutch due to the gear linkage bar which passes across the top of chassis and mounts to front of bell housing. Perhaps there is another way of doing it, but we could not work it out.
Sadly the clutch he had came with fault which meant he had to do it all again....
Matt
Master cylinder has been checked by a local garage who couldn't see any issues - this is the 2nd time i've had this issue in the last three weeks (the first resulted in a 6hr wait for a tow truck).
I know it's due a new clutch (and it's currently undriveable) so I was thinking about changing this and the clutch release arm.
Could the wear on the clutch have caused a knock on effect with the master cylinder?
I know it's due a new clutch (and it's currently undriveable) so I was thinking about changing this and the clutch release arm.
Could the wear on the clutch have caused a knock on effect with the master cylinder?
Is it possible it could just be the pivot in the pedal box??
Worth a scrabble under the dash to check if something is blocking the pedal travel?
If clutch had worn the pedal would more probably flail loosely or sit on the floor at the bottom of travel, or be really light.
Maybe a hydraulic fluid blockage, grit in the pipes maybe.
Got to be worth a check before pulling the gearbox out.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
Worth a scrabble under the dash to check if something is blocking the pedal travel?
If clutch had worn the pedal would more probably flail loosely or sit on the floor at the bottom of travel, or be really light.
Maybe a hydraulic fluid blockage, grit in the pipes maybe.
Got to be worth a check before pulling the gearbox out.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
If the release arms breaks, the pedal tends to drop because it's usually the ball joint pivot that breaks through the arm itself. Replacement arms tend to be reinforced, or you can do it yourself if you're handy with a welder see here
If the arm is intact (you can view it through the inspection plate under the bell housing) I'd remove the slave cylinder and see if there is anything obviously wrong. If all looks normal, I'd be up at the pedal box and master cylinder
As others have said, it's unlikely to be a knackered clutch assembly. And if a clutch seizes, it generally disengages but won't re-engage (your pedal power is stronger than the release springs) and if it's seized enough to not move under pedal effort you generally blow the seals on the slave anyway.
Where abouts are you?
If the arm is intact (you can view it through the inspection plate under the bell housing) I'd remove the slave cylinder and see if there is anything obviously wrong. If all looks normal, I'd be up at the pedal box and master cylinder
As others have said, it's unlikely to be a knackered clutch assembly. And if a clutch seizes, it generally disengages but won't re-engage (your pedal power is stronger than the release springs) and if it's seized enough to not move under pedal effort you generally blow the seals on the slave anyway.
Where abouts are you?
Had this once years ago (Not on a Chim) and after removing the box found one of the springs had broken free and lodged firmly between the plates meaning the clutch pedal couldn't be pressed. It was absolutely solid
The clutch plate that let go of its spring was a recon one and had only been in a week or so.
The clutch plate that let go of its spring was a recon one and had only been in a week or so.
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