Kilimanjaro climb, anyone been?
Discussion
I have done it. 15 years ago, so not much use for recommending guides.
It is basically a walk, but it does go up to almost 6000m. If it was not at altitude it would be pretty much like doing 6 Snowdons. The key thing is it is at altitude! People who say it is just a walk generally haven't been up at 11:00 in the evening aiming for a sunrise summit at -20C with a frozen water bottle and been stumbling along one step at a time.
Everyone reacts differently, but particularly the final push is hard. You never really get time to acclimatise as it is up all the way, so the top bit will be tricky. It is basically a mental requirement to actually get to the top and not 'give up' at Gilmans point. The fitter you are the easier it will be.
I have been to basically the same altitude in the Himalayas, but took much longer getting there with a lot more up and down along the way. This helps you acclimatise.
If you do make it to the summit it is brilliant. You can literally see for hundreds of miles. We could clearly see Mt. Kenya 100miles away. You are really on top of a continent and it feels like it. Not something you do every day! In the Himalayas it was a very different feeling being at the bottom of all the big hills.
It is basically a walk, but it does go up to almost 6000m. If it was not at altitude it would be pretty much like doing 6 Snowdons. The key thing is it is at altitude! People who say it is just a walk generally haven't been up at 11:00 in the evening aiming for a sunrise summit at -20C with a frozen water bottle and been stumbling along one step at a time.
Everyone reacts differently, but particularly the final push is hard. You never really get time to acclimatise as it is up all the way, so the top bit will be tricky. It is basically a mental requirement to actually get to the top and not 'give up' at Gilmans point. The fitter you are the easier it will be.
I have been to basically the same altitude in the Himalayas, but took much longer getting there with a lot more up and down along the way. This helps you acclimatise.
If you do make it to the summit it is brilliant. You can literally see for hundreds of miles. We could clearly see Mt. Kenya 100miles away. You are really on top of a continent and it feels like it. Not something you do every day! In the Himalayas it was a very different feeling being at the bottom of all the big hills.
I did it via the Rongai Route in September 2011. I am a right knacker but managed it. One of our party collapsed and died on the way back down (it was in the national papers if you search for it), which made you realise that you are 2 days away from proper medical assistance so if you experience any medical problems you are f---ed.
The short routes are actually harder as you have less time to acclimatise. I liked the Rongai Route as it took you up the far side upto the Mawenzi peak (the other volcano making the 'mountain') before having a relatively easy stroll across The Saddle to Kibo on the penultimate climbing day.
Other tips, get Henry Steadman's book - it lists all the routes, operators etc.
The short routes are actually harder as you have less time to acclimatise. I liked the Rongai Route as it took you up the far side upto the Mawenzi peak (the other volcano making the 'mountain') before having a relatively easy stroll across The Saddle to Kibo on the penultimate climbing day.
Other tips, get Henry Steadman's book - it lists all the routes, operators etc.
I did the Machame route a few years ago which buys you and extra days acclimatisation over the 'coca cola' route. When it comes to altitude, the longer it takes to go up the better. Forgetting about the bad things for a moment, it is a brilliant experience. You start off in rainforest then ascend up to moorland, high desert then finally something that is how you imagine the moon to be. The terrain is brilliant, the porters are nutters, and you can get a mobile phone signal at 5500m. If you are lucky, you may even get some chagga beer.
When talking about acclimatisation, people often climb an adjacent peak mt Meru before going for killi. It is not a prerequisite, but may help if you are concerned. Other than that, all you need to do is go slowly! Or 'pole, pole' in Swahilli ( pronounced polly). And Drink as much water as possible. Other than that, there is not much else you can do. Some will recommend drugs like diamox, others will suggest staying clear of the stuff.
Other than that, all I can say is Do it!
When talking about acclimatisation, people often climb an adjacent peak mt Meru before going for killi. It is not a prerequisite, but may help if you are concerned. Other than that, all you need to do is go slowly! Or 'pole, pole' in Swahilli ( pronounced polly). And Drink as much water as possible. Other than that, there is not much else you can do. Some will recommend drugs like diamox, others will suggest staying clear of the stuff.
Other than that, all I can say is Do it!
People collapse and die walking down the street, so dont let these stories put you off. Altitude sickness is the main risk, if you, your team and your guides handle those risks properly then you will be fine. Expect some headaches and disturbed sleep (chain stokes breathing), if your headache wont go away with paracetamol then descend. If your lungs crackle, go down. Simples. Look after eachother and you will be fine. Also, you will find some guide companies that are willing to carry bottled oxygen on summit day just in case, this may help you feel more confident.
It's an amazing place and well worth it.
It's an amazing place and well worth it.
I attempted it a few years ago.
Of our party of 11, only 3 made it. The fitter ones (including me) seemed to struggle with altitude sickness more than the fatties, so there's a lot of luck involved.
Was a particularly cold and viscious night we attempted the summit though and found out later that day, only 10 of about 60 attempts that night made the top.
If anyone tells you it's a simple walk, they're wrong.
Of our party of 11, only 3 made it. The fitter ones (including me) seemed to struggle with altitude sickness more than the fatties, so there's a lot of luck involved.
Was a particularly cold and viscious night we attempted the summit though and found out later that day, only 10 of about 60 attempts that night made the top.
If anyone tells you it's a simple walk, they're wrong.
A friend and I went up the Machame route last year and we both made it to the summit (proper) without any issues whatsoever.
We both had some degree of altitude sickness (headaches and feeling nauseous) but the guides we were with monitored us and made sure we were well enough to continue... as well as bullying us to make sure we were eating and drinking enough. It really is a long walk with the only slight technical difficult being the Barranco wall which involves some scrambling (and was definitely my favourite part).
It was a great experience and I would happily go back and do it all over again.
No link to them whatsoever, but we went with Team Kili who were fabulous, and after a lot of research Team Kili seem to be one of the better companies who really look after and develop their porters and guides as well as looking after their tourists. The kit they use is also very new and in great condition.
A gratuitous summit shot to inspire you - though the sign has been replaced now!

We both had some degree of altitude sickness (headaches and feeling nauseous) but the guides we were with monitored us and made sure we were well enough to continue... as well as bullying us to make sure we were eating and drinking enough. It really is a long walk with the only slight technical difficult being the Barranco wall which involves some scrambling (and was definitely my favourite part).
It was a great experience and I would happily go back and do it all over again.

No link to them whatsoever, but we went with Team Kili who were fabulous, and after a lot of research Team Kili seem to be one of the better companies who really look after and develop their porters and guides as well as looking after their tourists. The kit they use is also very new and in great condition.
A gratuitous summit shot to inspire you - though the sign has been replaced now!
I did it last year, Rongai route, 4 days. The guide didnt want to follow the agreed and advertised route so we did it in a day less then planned. Got altitude sickness at Gillmans, felt pissed as a fart. Made it to Uhuru but it was all a bit of a haze. Got some awesome pics, felt like quite an anticlimax to be honest - am now planning Elbrus in case thats any better!
Got Typhiod fever too, spent a week in hospital s
tting green smelly poo 10 days after i got home. Some grubby guide didnt wash his hands after taking a dump and then prepared my dinner! Nice!
Was tough, it snowed heavily when i was there, tent collapsed on the night we set off on the summit attempt due to the weight of snow that built up (the guides were brushing snow off the tent every hour but it was not often enough). Loads of people didnt make it, felt bad for the headlights turning around and heading back in the pitch black. Got some awesome pics though.
I went with Private Kilimanjaro based in Burton on Trent, they were quite good. They (of course) use local guides and stuff, i wouldnt trust the locals but i went alone and did the ascent alone (just me, guides and porters) so i probably felt more vunerable than most!
As i said, i felt very underwhelmed at the time but looking back it was rather awesome and the pictures and memories i have are more satisfying than i realised at the time!
Got Typhiod fever too, spent a week in hospital s
tting green smelly poo 10 days after i got home. Some grubby guide didnt wash his hands after taking a dump and then prepared my dinner! Nice!Was tough, it snowed heavily when i was there, tent collapsed on the night we set off on the summit attempt due to the weight of snow that built up (the guides were brushing snow off the tent every hour but it was not often enough). Loads of people didnt make it, felt bad for the headlights turning around and heading back in the pitch black. Got some awesome pics though.
I went with Private Kilimanjaro based in Burton on Trent, they were quite good. They (of course) use local guides and stuff, i wouldnt trust the locals but i went alone and did the ascent alone (just me, guides and porters) so i probably felt more vunerable than most!
As i said, i felt very underwhelmed at the time but looking back it was rather awesome and the pictures and memories i have are more satisfying than i realised at the time!
Have you ever climbed a mountain where altitude could be an issue?
If not, I'd recommend popping over to Morocco and going up Toubkal where you will probably feel the affects of altitude. It's also just a two day walk with a night in the refuge (180 MAD - £15ish a night including breakfast), you don't need a guide or any special kit other than a headtorch if you want to get cracking early on summit day and it's pretty cheap to get there with flights into Marrakesh on Ryanair for less than £100.
You'll find out if you enjoy a long slog up a scree slope and whether you are likely to get really ill from altitude for less than £200 each.
If not, I'd recommend popping over to Morocco and going up Toubkal where you will probably feel the affects of altitude. It's also just a two day walk with a night in the refuge (180 MAD - £15ish a night including breakfast), you don't need a guide or any special kit other than a headtorch if you want to get cracking early on summit day and it's pretty cheap to get there with flights into Marrakesh on Ryanair for less than £100.
You'll find out if you enjoy a long slog up a scree slope and whether you are likely to get really ill from altitude for less than £200 each.
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