cooling upgrade ideas

[a1rak]

I think this is a common issue but my Cerb has always idicated a quick rise in water temperature when in slow or stationary traffic. On normal driving with no traffic the temp is around 95deg which I believe is OK.

If i'm in stationary or slow traffic the temp rises quickly to 105deg to 110deg the fans cut in and the temp goes no higher but it feels uncomfortable and I can hear pinking on light throttle.

I would like the temp to be much more consistent and stable in and out of traffic. Has anyone upgraded their cooling system on a 4.5AJP to acheive a more consistent water temperature, ie different rad, stat, electric water pump etc.

[esso]

Easiest way to do this is fit a cooling chip,they used to be available from Jooles,they bring the fans in at 90 degrees,not sure who does them now but if you speak to TVR power i`m sure they would sort you something out.

[jackwibble]

My car has then JOols cooling mod and never goes over 100 deg even in long queuing you can get him on here spitfire4v8 he is still in the TVR business would think he is probably still doing chips as He does mapping .

[pmessling]

I've found since changing my pipes and my rad to an aluminum on that the car rarely goes above 85 degrees. That's indicated on a SPA gauge. I also used a temp probe on my multimeter whilst bleeding the system and the temps matched.

As others have said about the cerbs original gauge is that it does over read. The routing of the capillary tube doesn't with it's close proximity to the exhausts.

Best upgrades I've done to date. Expensive but worse the knowledge that the engine isn't actually as hot as it says.

Also fitted an oil temp gauge and oil stat whilst doing this work.

Peter

[Byker28i]

seconded (or thirded). When mine was mapped i had this mod as well, now it never really creeps above 95

[spitfire4v8]

Paul is on an emerald so can set his fans to any temp so I guess he's looking at other cooling options for his supercharged monster Big rad is a good idea .. but make sure your idle speed isn't too low .. the water pumps are very poor at circulating coolant at low engine revs so this might be contributing if the idle is as low as 800rpm for instance. Try upping the idle to see if that helps at all maybe?

[gruffalo]

I will be fitting an auxiliary electric pump next year when I do an engine rebuild. I currently set the idle at 1000RPM to help get round the issue of poor circulation at idle.

[a1rak]

spitfire4v8 said:

Paul is on an emerald so can set his fans to any temp so I guess he's looking at other cooling options for his supercharged monster Big rad is a good idea .. but make sure your idle speed isn't too low .. the water pumps are very poor at circulating coolant at low engine revs so this might be contributing if the idle is as low as 800rpm for instance. Try upping the idle to see if that helps at all maybe?

Hi Julian, yes I have tried changing the fan switching temp but even with the fans running in traffic the temp is just not holding. I am going to take it off the road for a while and fit an Intercooler as the charge temp also rises and maybe a larger rad with an electric waterpump to assist the factory pump at low speeds. This will allow me to continue to pump cooling water even after the engine stops running to avoid heat soak hot spots.

Anyone suggest a company who can do upgraded rads.

[longbow]

Have you ever considered fitting a water injection kit? It's primary purpose is to remove heat from the intake charge and therefore subdue detonation. I've run it on two turbo charged cars at sustained high boost and never had any detonation related problems. Just a though, since your engine is forced induction anyway, it's easily triggered by an adjustable manifold pressure sensor.

[spitfire4v8]

Paul .. have you tried upping the idle speed to see if it helps? In the emerald you can set target idle speed against engine revs .. so you could put a target of say 1200rpm at 100C and above .. that would mean that over 90C it would start targetting a higher idle speed and help coolant circulation.
On tickover the heat generated is tiny .. if your rad is struggling to hold a temp at idle then something is amiss.