996 Brake Line Replacment
Discussion
Just got my car back from a minor service and all seems well apart from being advised that all the brake lines are corroded and "may" require replacement for the next mot. Being brakes I feel that it would be best to change them sooner rather than later. Has anyone done this as a diy and if so any advise would be most welcome? Thanks
I've done the front short metal lines from the hose to the calliper as part of my upgrade to GT3 brakes. It is pretty straight forward just make sure that you have a brake line wrench. DON'T attempt to undo the unions with an open ender or shifter. While you are at it you might as well change the rubber hoses too.
As above, not too difficult to replace, Goodridge do a kit for around 50 quid with all four lines for front and rear to replace the rubber sections which is what I used. As mentioned make sure you use a proper pipe spanner and the biggest pain in the arse is bleeding the system afterwards. Good luck.
Just to clarify things the lines/pipes which are said to be corroded are the main steel lines running front to back and ones going left to right over the top of the engine. When I asked the service manager at porsche about the job difficulty a sharp in take of breath through his teeth was made! Do goodridge do a kit to replace all the brakes pipes?
I have bought a 996 turbo cab and again was informed my brake lines are rusty which is strange as copper does not rust? I read in a recent porsche magazine that Promax uk porsche parts dealer can supply a long flexible braided hose to save the expensive job of removing the engine and gearbox to fit
the replacement hard lines.
I have emailed them to discover how much these braided lines cost so I can have it fitted.
Regards
John
the replacement hard lines.
I have emailed them to discover how much these braided lines cost so I can have it fitted.
Regards
John
The unions are steel, the pipes are alloy, the guarantee is that the unions will not come undone without taking the pipe out with them, so bear in mind.
The alloy corrodes.
Having said that there is quite a thickness of material, an MOT tester is not allowed to poke around, what you would normally have is bubbles of corrosion that don't necessarily translate into any serious pitting.
You could first try wirebrushing the corroded areas and take it from there.
No copper, too expensive for a Fiat oops sorry Porsche, ha.
The alloy corrodes.
Having said that there is quite a thickness of material, an MOT tester is not allowed to poke around, what you would normally have is bubbles of corrosion that don't necessarily translate into any serious pitting.
You could first try wirebrushing the corroded areas and take it from there.
No copper, too expensive for a Fiat oops sorry Porsche, ha.
Boxster brake lines, one over transmission can be threaded in from the top through the engine opening.
The front from the manifold to the right side calliper is a real pig.
Put the car on axle stands with enough access to get under the car.
Remove both wheels.
Remove the under tray, the left headlight unit and the left inner wheel arch cover.
Disconnect the front cross braces remove the front bolts, loosen the rear bolts and swing the brace out of the way.
Remove 3 of the bolts that secure each of the sway bar mounts, leave the track control arm bolt in but loosen. Swing the retaining plate out of the way, and lower the sway bar.
Leave the old brake line in for a guide to the pipe run.
Feed the new pipe in through the gap where the sway bar was.
I found it easier to thread the left side first, then the right it is a bit of a fiddle but doable.
Remove the old line and clip the new line in place, some of the pipes for the cooling system will need to be moved to create space to work.no need to disconnect though.
Good luck
The front from the manifold to the right side calliper is a real pig.
Put the car on axle stands with enough access to get under the car.
Remove both wheels.
Remove the under tray, the left headlight unit and the left inner wheel arch cover.
Disconnect the front cross braces remove the front bolts, loosen the rear bolts and swing the brace out of the way.
Remove 3 of the bolts that secure each of the sway bar mounts, leave the track control arm bolt in but loosen. Swing the retaining plate out of the way, and lower the sway bar.
Leave the old brake line in for a guide to the pipe run.
Feed the new pipe in through the gap where the sway bar was.
I found it easier to thread the left side first, then the right it is a bit of a fiddle but doable.
Remove the old line and clip the new line in place, some of the pipes for the cooling system will need to be moved to create space to work.no need to disconnect though.
Good luck
Had a similar problem on my 996 a few years ago . My local OPC said gearbox "had " to be removed to replace the preformed crossover pipe. Can't remember the exact quote ( many hundreds ) ....put me right offf
I got my local VW specialist to feed & fix a pipe over box plus all 4 short pipes in wheel arches for £170... good luck with your choice.
I got my local VW specialist to feed & fix a pipe over box plus all 4 short pipes in wheel arches for £170... good luck with your choice.
Respected Indy said:
Front to rear and cross body brake pipes corroded - £1100+VAT to replace the lines and bleed brakes – including remove and refit of gearbox
That was the quote for mine (among other things
) for my 996 C2 in August 17.Edited by DavidJJ on Sunday 11th February 18:25
Edited by DavidJJ on Sunday 11th February 18:26
You can feed in kunifer brake line over the gearbox and at the front in front of the steering rack.
I have heard of people straightening the pre formed oe steel lines and feeding those in.
However I would not like to be the person doing that!
I did my over gearbox line in kunifer when changing clutch etc.
I got my front line replaced when the power steering rack hard lines let go (worth checking these when doing the brake line, replacements at £38).
I can well believe it's a £1500 job if you drop the box and front subframe for access to install genuine steel lines.
I have heard of people straightening the pre formed oe steel lines and feeding those in.
However I would not like to be the person doing that!
I did my over gearbox line in kunifer when changing clutch etc.
I got my front line replaced when the power steering rack hard lines let go (worth checking these when doing the brake line, replacements at £38).
I can well believe it's a £1500 job if you drop the box and front subframe for access to install genuine steel lines.
Gassing Station | Porsche General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


