280i clutch issues.
Discussion
My master cylinder started leaking a week before woodwork and the new one didn't have the same upper fitting so I just got the new hose back from Russco today with the proper fittings. Put everything together and bled and bled and bled and bled and I still can't get enough pressure built up to shift without a bit of effort. Pedal nearly to the floor when it grabs. Slave is fairly new maybe 2 years old and the only thing I can see with that is when the clutch is out you can push in the rod a bit. The rod doesn't have any adjustment that I can see as the head doesn't seem like it wants to move. The old master cylinder was put on in February/March when I got the car back from the garage who replaced the clutch. 2 days later I was replacing the master as it wouldn't shift at all with the clutch pushed in. Now the 2nd one worked fine but it was a 3/4" bore rather than a 5/8" like the 1st and now the 3rd one. Oh and I'm getting fluid under the m.c. itself on this on just like I was on the 2nd.
Any ideas, I'm at a loss here and starting to get a little p.o.ed a bit. FTR the russco made line does stick up above the resevoir abut an 1" but I don't think that's an issue once you have it bled right?
Any ideas, I'm at a loss here and starting to get a little p.o.ed a bit. FTR the russco made line does stick up above the resevoir abut an 1" but I don't think that's an issue once you have it bled right?
I'm guessing you are using a TR 250 master. As that is easily available here.
If the orig hose didn't fit you could have just have used a bushing (fitting) .
Bleeding.
Are you using "open, down, closed, up" or are you pumping and opening the bleed screw.?
I really advise the former as one can push through all the old fluid and assuming your tube is transparent it is easy to see bubbles and old dirty fluid.
The latter method stirs up all sorts of crap and tends to just send air back and forth in the system.
I know lots of mechs use the pump and pray method, but on an older car it's worth doing it properly so the fluid gets changed.
Apols if you are already using "open down etc"
If the orig hose didn't fit you could have just have used a bushing (fitting) .
Bleeding.
Are you using "open, down, closed, up" or are you pumping and opening the bleed screw.?
I really advise the former as one can push through all the old fluid and assuming your tube is transparent it is easy to see bubbles and old dirty fluid.
The latter method stirs up all sorts of crap and tends to just send air back and forth in the system.
I know lots of mechs use the pump and pray method, but on an older car it's worth doing it properly so the fluid gets changed.
Apols if you are already using "open down etc"
Its a tr7 m.c. which is what the car came with couldn't find an adaptor anywhere so gave up on that end of things.
It isn't a bleeding issue. 3 have now done the same thing where they won't push the slave far enough with the new clutch and it is almost like they build up too much pressure in the master as the master is wet under the cylinder but not inside by the pedal. Never had an issue before the new clutch. I bleed most everything with a mitty vac and pull the fluid down which is usually better on the cylinders.
It isn't a bleeding issue. 3 have now done the same thing where they won't push the slave far enough with the new clutch and it is almost like they build up too much pressure in the master as the master is wet under the cylinder but not inside by the pedal. Never had an issue before the new clutch. I bleed most everything with a mitty vac and pull the fluid down which is usually better on the cylinders.
Yeah, I'm starting to wonder if it might be a clutch issue. I didn't replace it myself let a very highly reccommended shop do it as my garage is quite small for crawling around under a car. Got the Clutch from Norm at Team Blitz. I did order a new slave today but my though is that if it pushes it wouldn't be a seal issue. It just doesn't push enough. Yeah it is threaded but the nut on the end of mine is on so tight that I can't get it to move a bit with heat or anything so I'm wondering if it is meant to move or not. Tonight I'm gonna put a couple washers in as spacers to see what that does.
I need to dig out the paperwork but (IIRC) Tony put a Center Force in mine which has now suddenly started slipping big time at 2500-3000 RPM. There is so little room to work from under the frame I'm not sure about DIY but finding a LBC shop here is also a problem as there are few LBCs in Houston.
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff