Single Speed MTB
Discussion
Gooby said:
Quality!"they'll even think I read The Guardian"
AFAIK Noel Edmunds already has more credibility than a cross-dressing, A4 driving, single speeder
Singlespeed MTB's are wonderful things. Mechanically simple and they teach you to carry momentum through obstacles, plus for any given ride, you probably get more physical exercise out of it.
They make great winter bikes as you can avoid destroying your drive train during a gritty, muddy autumn and winter (and summer if this one is anything go by), and you also save quite a lot of weight removing the gears and extra bits of drivetrain.
On a 26" wheeled MTB, usual gearing is 2:1 (usually 32:16 given most people simply remove the outer rings from a standard chainset and use the 32t middle chainring). On a 29er, you can gear down slightly as you travel slightly further per wheel revolution, hence 32:18 is a standard approach. However if you live somewhere particularly hilly or particularly flat it's easy enough to gear up or down accordingly.
They make great winter bikes as you can avoid destroying your drive train during a gritty, muddy autumn and winter (and summer if this one is anything go by), and you also save quite a lot of weight removing the gears and extra bits of drivetrain.
On a 26" wheeled MTB, usual gearing is 2:1 (usually 32:16 given most people simply remove the outer rings from a standard chainset and use the 32t middle chainring). On a 29er, you can gear down slightly as you travel slightly further per wheel revolution, hence 32:18 is a standard approach. However if you live somewhere particularly hilly or particularly flat it's easy enough to gear up or down accordingly.
Im running a singlespeed 26" MTB with 32-16 gearing. Was a bit of a shock on the first couple of rides but now I love not having to worry about finding the right gear, focusing instead of the trail infront of you. I also removed my suspension fork and have been running a rigid setup, Ive had some odd looks but to be honest ive not missed the suspension much; this includes riding Afan and the Coed Y Brenin Enduro!
One thing I would add is that your local trails need to be SS friendly. Big technical climbs are a PITA on an SS. If you ride mostly forest track or undulating single track then go for it. If you have rocky or slippery climbs then you will struggle.
My advice would be to go 1x9 first and see how you get on. My hardtail is 1x9 as I just couldn't get on with SS where I ride. To much pushing on slippery hills for my liking.
My advice would be to go 1x9 first and see how you get on. My hardtail is 1x9 as I just couldn't get on with SS where I ride. To much pushing on slippery hills for my liking.
at the budget end of things I know but I keep finding myself looking at this
http://www.vitusbikes.com/urban/vee-1-2012
guess it would need slightly different gearing and tyres to be much use off road though.
http://www.vitusbikes.com/urban/vee-1-2012
guess it would need slightly different gearing and tyres to be much use off road though.
Ride singlespeed to work everyday, ride singlespeed at the weekends for the next 6 months. My repair bill has been £9 this week on a new chain . First one in 4 years. It was very dead. Run 2 to 1 which is 17 to 34, just because I got a boone Ti sproocket in 17 as no others around to buy. Love it. Carbon bontrager forks, Ti ebb Pipedream Modro frame. King and Hope stuff. Love it loads.
First few rides, you wonder why you did it, then when you realise that momentum is your friend on descents and climbs and forget fiddling with gears, you focus loads more on where you are riding. Great fun stuff. Clocked at 25mph riding with legs like a hamster. Lost out at the weekend by a few seconds by a geared mate on a descent. He clocked 32mph, I was freewheeling at a few mph less, but made more on him on the next climb up.
First few rides, you wonder why you did it, then when you realise that momentum is your friend on descents and climbs and forget fiddling with gears, you focus loads more on where you are riding. Great fun stuff. Clocked at 25mph riding with legs like a hamster. Lost out at the weekend by a few seconds by a geared mate on a descent. He clocked 32mph, I was freewheeling at a few mph less, but made more on him on the next climb up.
Well the news is in, the weight begins Cannondale Trail single speed is ordered, more glowing reports which has helped a lot make up my mind, not a complete stranger to single life as I used to ride fixed a lot (60-80 mile road rides) and the odd race on a velodrome. The exciting wait begins 
hadenough! said:
I've been riding a rigid ss for around 5 years now and it's made my geared bike largely redundant. I run 33 16 and find it works well. Recommend you invest in a white industries eno if you do it.
Agree totally, the only screw on freewheel that survived time, until I went Hope SS rear hub, which is pretty poor with sealing and bearings but lighter that a seperate hub and freewheel. May go King for the next one.I have a single speed jump bike MTB, an NS Metropolis 1, brilliant fun and v light, has a 25-11 setup. Love the simplicity of the single speed until you try and get 100% even chain tension, and then realise just how useful deraillieurs are.
That video link above is damn funny, have seen many variations but that one is brilliant
That video link above is damn funny, have seen many variations but that one is brilliant
BaronVonVaderham said:
I have a single speed jump bike MTB, an NS Metropolis 1, brilliant fun and v light, has a 25-11 setup. Love the simplicity of the single speed until you try and get 100% even chain tension, and then realise just how useful deraillieurs are.
Used to use these on the BMX, in decades past:
Watchman said:
Used to use these on the BMX, in decades past:
Also used those in the past, the problem's not with axle position, but rather with eliminating the tight and loose spots in the chain as the cranks are turned. It comes from the chainring not being 100% round and the chainring not being perfectly centered on the spider/crank.BaronVonVaderham said:
Watchman said:
Used to use these on the BMX, in decades past:
Also used those in the past, the problem's not with axle position, but rather with eliminating the tight and loose spots in the chain as the cranks are turned. It comes from the chainring not being 100% round and the chainring not being perfectly centered on the spider/crank.
. I wonder if one of those tensioners that you site near to the chainring would help with this?Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff