This isn't helping
This isn't helping
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m60ddy

Original Poster:

631 posts

236 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
After finally deciding I was going to buy a Chimeara, to run for a few years as an introduction to TVR ownership, before taking the plunge and buying a Cerbera I have seen that M20TVR has been reduced. I am now back to the should I shouldn't I head debate. Can anyone shed any light on this car either positive or negative. Please talk me into / out of this car.
Also is there anyone in Huddersfield who would discuss Cerbera ownership and give me a look / ride in their car.
Cheers M

PuffsBack

2,442 posts

249 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
Personally I would go with a Chimaera if its your first TVR. Its a very very good introduction into the marque and believe me you will be on a steep learning curve. Stuff you take for granted in a normal eurobox you just don't in a TVR! The Chimaera is very straighforward and there is a lot that you can do yourself very easily that will break you in to the way TVR did things, and as long as you are careful when buying Chassis and Engine wise there is not a lot that will break the bank.

However having owned both (and a Griff) the Cerbera is the better car. It feels very very special to drive, its faster, it handles better and brakes better but...

Can you live with it not being a convertible?

Can you live with the running costs?

Being handy with some spanners and having being broken in with a Chimaera wil reduce the second point considerably



m60ddy

Original Poster:

631 posts

236 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
PuffsBack said:
Personally I would go with a Chimaera if its your first TVR. Its a very very good introduction into the marque and believe me you will be on a steep learning curve. Stuff you take for granted in a normal eurobox you just don't in a TVR! The Chimaera is very straighforward and there is a lot that you can do yourself very easily that will break you in to the way TVR did things, and as long as you are careful when buying Chassis and Engine wise there is not a lot that will break the bank.

However having owned both (and a Griff) the Cerbera is the better car. It feels very very special to drive, its faster, it handles better and brakes better but...

Can you live with it not being a convertible?

Can you live with the running costs?

Being handy with some spanners and having being broken in with a Chimaera wil reduce the second point considerably


Thanks very much, helpful and not, please take without insult.

Not massively bothered about no roof and as an off set the +2 is a real bonus.
I am relatively spanned happy, my current toy is an 80's capri, also my family business is a local garage so I get rather preferential rates.
But yes you are right the one and only stumbling block every time I find myself wanting and nearly buying a Cerbera is the running Costs.
When people talk about £3k a year is that because you are saving for the engine rebuild and chassis re build or are you paying £3k as well as saving for the rebuilds. Once rebuilds are done how much are people spending then? I mean just to keep the car good and on the road not modifying.

pmessling

2,313 posts

227 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
If you want a cerb get one. My first Tvr was my cerb and wouldn't change it. If your good with a spanner you'll be fine. Most jobs can be tackled at home.

Go in full bore I say

PuffsBack

2,442 posts

249 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
m60ddy said:
Thanks very much, helpful and not, please take without insult.

Not massively bothered about no roof and as an off set the +2 is a real bonus.
I am relatively spanned happy, my current toy is an 80's capri, also my family business is a local garage so I get rather preferential rates.
But yes you are right the one and only stumbling block every time I find myself wanting and nearly buying a Cerbera is the running Costs.
When people talk about £3k a year is that because you are saving for the engine rebuild and chassis re build or are you paying £3k as well as saving for the rebuilds. Once rebuilds are done how much are people spending then? I mean just to keep the car good and on the road not modifying.
Take a look at the running costs for mine as its just coming up for a year since I bought it (2000 miles) A lot of the smaller bits and bobs along with the exhaust, alternator and coilovers were done by myself to keep the costs down. I would say this is the typical type of stuff you will encounter (note though £1000 of it has been on non essential stuff ike stereo, exhaust, seat backs etc smile )

http://www.pistonheads.com/members/showServiceHist...

Edited by PuffsBack on Thursday 11th October 12:22

Mags

1,196 posts

303 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
Whats your budget? This is likely to impact the running costs as well.

Tafford

280 posts

252 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
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M20TVR is my car - I could well try and talk you into buying it if you want!

jammy_basturd

29,778 posts

236 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
m60ddy said:
Thanks very much, helpful and not, please take without insult.

Not massively bothered about no roof and as an off set the +2 is a real bonus.
I am relatively spanned happy, my current toy is an 80's capri, also my family business is a local garage so I get rather preferential rates.
But yes you are right the one and only stumbling block every time I find myself wanting and nearly buying a Cerbera is the running Costs.
When people talk about £3k a year is that because you are saving for the engine rebuild and chassis re build or are you paying £3k as well as saving for the rebuilds. Once rebuilds are done how much are people spending then? I mean just to keep the car good and on the road not modifying.
There are several things that can land you with big bills:
Brakes - the discs (generally) are Cerbera specific and cost A LOT.
Chassis rust - as you say, outriggers are a problem.
Engine problems - Auxiliary pump shaft nose can sometimes snap - or the keyway can. Early 4.2s have a history of snapping the ORIGINAL crank. Clutch fingers or slave/master leaking. The engines though are actually quite bullet proof.
Steering rack - Prone to leaking, ~£350 rebuild + removal and refitting if you can't do yourself.
Tyres
Windscreen - hard to come by and over £300 I believe
General big service - tappet adjustment can add a couple of hundred on to a big service. Add a couple of other niggles and you can easily have a near 4 figure service.

Couple of other things to look out for now these cars are getting a bit older - fuel hoses need to be replaced now. Lots of stories on PH of perished and/or leaking fuel hoses now. Same with suspension, most of the early cars will now be on tired suspension if it's still original.

Of course, if you can do the work yourself you can save yourself a HUGE amount of money. But there are still things that don't come cheap or need a specialist (auxiliary pump rebuild, steering rack rebuild, brake discs).

scotty_d

6,795 posts

218 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
Hi

All good advice so all i can add is the differences and experiences between chimaera and cerbera.

I would not be put off a Cerb as a first TVR if anything i found it much easier to live with day to day from a driving prospective, Lighter clutch , Much much better handling when set up well. Better power delivery with a long throttle travel.

Running costs are higher for a Cerb due to the fact there are a lot rarer than chims as well as the TVR engines. Chim parts on the whole belong to something else on the road much like the cerb. The chim seems to have more in common with main stream cars parts wise.

3k a year depends if you get one with a stong chassis suspension engine and clutch Diy Mechanic or not?. If your in to upgrading and Modding it will cost a lot more as i found out. Unlike the chim it is much cheaper to upgrade on a whole.

Edited by scotty_d on Thursday 11th October 13:21

pwd95

8,444 posts

262 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
Tafford said:
M20TVR is my car - I could well try and talk you into buying it if you want!
Bought a Chim a month ago. If I'd seen your car sooner you'd now be without a car & an arm!

OP can buy mine & I'll get the Cerb. idea

Pics here....

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

esso

1,849 posts

241 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
..............cheap Cerbs are cheap for a reason..............

Podie

46,649 posts

299 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
esso said:
..............cheap Cerbs are cheap for a reason..............
yes

There is no such thing as a cheap TVR. You either pay now, or you pay later.

Jhonno

6,430 posts

165 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
Jump in with a Cerb imo.. I did and I love it! Just be very vigilant when looking over the car!!

m60ddy

Original Poster:

631 posts

236 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
Podie said:
esso said:
..............cheap Cerbs are cheap for a reason..............
yes

There is no such thing as a cheap TVR. You either pay now, or you pay later.
Agreed but from the questions and answers so far I cannot see the reason. The thing I am currently thinking about is the rattle in the clutch whilst depressed, any ideas?

coetzeeh

2,878 posts

260 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
m60ddy said:
Agreed but from the questions and answers so far I cannot see the reason. The thing I am currently thinking about is the rattle in the clutch whilst depressed, any ideas?
release bearing?

Griffithy

929 posts

300 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
If you want a Cerb go for a Cerb.
Of course it is a bit more complicated and more expensive to run.
But you would also have to spend quite an amount in Chimaera keepership as well, it is still a TVR.
Money is better spent in things you really like.
And you will always suffer for sure, seeing a Cerb when in the Chim.
Chassis trouble you can avoid if double checking before you buy and rust will not turn up from one day to the other, if you take care.

Good luck!

esso

1,849 posts

241 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
Podie said:
esso said:
..............cheap Cerbs are cheap for a reason..............
yes

There is no such thing as a cheap TVR. You either pay now, or you pay later.
Totally agree....after 8 years of owning a Cerb you get to know these thingsthumbup

Podie

46,649 posts

299 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
coetzeeh said:
m60ddy said:
Agreed but from the questions and answers so far I cannot see the reason. The thing I am currently thinking about is the rattle in the clutch whilst depressed, any ideas?
release bearing?
That'd be my guess.

esso

1,849 posts

241 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
m60ddy said:
Podie said:
esso said:
..............cheap Cerbs are cheap for a reason..............
yes

There is no such thing as a cheap TVR. You either pay now, or you pay later.
Agreed but from the questions and answers so far I cannot see the reason. The thing I am currently thinking about is the rattle in the clutch whilst depressed, any ideas?
No-one on this forum is going to comment on an individuals car that is up for sale to be fair,the best you can do is read all you can about Cerbs on the Cerbera forum,go to your local TVR meet and talk to Cerb owners about the highs & lows of Cerb ownership......a cheap Cerbera does not exist....my recommendation is buy the best car you can afford...it will cost you short term.....buy cheap and it will cost you long term......either way....it will cost you.................but its worth it!!!!!

Jhonno

6,430 posts

165 months

Thursday 11th October 2012
quotequote all
Podie said:
coetzeeh said:
m60ddy said:
Agreed but from the questions and answers so far I cannot see the reason. The thing I am currently thinking about is the rattle in the clutch whilst depressed, any ideas?
release bearing?
That'd be my guess.
Bank on ~1k for a complete clutch in case..