Coating suspension arms
Discussion
Hammerite is fine as long as you can get it back to bare metal with no grease or cack (sandblasting is the best option). Finnegans claim you can paint direct over rust and you can, but don't expect it to stick for long.
POR15 is also reputedly good but I haven't tried it.
Powdercoating probably gives the best finish but it's compromised when you nip up nuts and bolts against it, it tends to crack and peel off around the holes etc. It's not actually THAT tough despite what some people claim - it chips just like paint as it's just a skin sitting on the surface.
In theory a good etch primer (that chomps into the surface) followed by a few coats of your preferred colour is perhaps the soundest option but takes the most work.
If you want the least hassle, give them to a powdercoaters who'll blast and finish them; I'd be surprised if it was more than £15 each. Try Cleveland Coatings over the 'Boro or Motorcool at Thornaby, I've used both with good results. I steer clear of the cowboys in Stockton after their attitude problem of a few years ago.
POR15 is also reputedly good but I haven't tried it.
Powdercoating probably gives the best finish but it's compromised when you nip up nuts and bolts against it, it tends to crack and peel off around the holes etc. It's not actually THAT tough despite what some people claim - it chips just like paint as it's just a skin sitting on the surface.
In theory a good etch primer (that chomps into the surface) followed by a few coats of your preferred colour is perhaps the soundest option but takes the most work.
If you want the least hassle, give them to a powdercoaters who'll blast and finish them; I'd be surprised if it was more than £15 each. Try Cleveland Coatings over the 'Boro or Motorcool at Thornaby, I've used both with good results. I steer clear of the cowboys in Stockton after their attitude problem of a few years ago.
I have spent most of my shift in the degreasing sink at work so all the slippery stuff is gone Ian but its not back to the bare metal, I used an air tool with a soft flapper tool attachment on the ARB and i thought sparks are no good that means i'm removing metal and i did'nt want that obviously. Ill be honest and thought that this was a bit of a silly question but now when i think about it getting the right coatings could make the said metal last another 20 years or so.
Dix
Dix
dixiebabes said:
I have spent most of my shift in the degreasing sink at work so all the slippery stuff is gone Ian but its not back to the bare metal, I used an air tool with a soft flapper tool attachment on the ARB and i thought sparks are no good that means i'm removing metal and i did'nt want that obviously. Ill be honest and thought that this was a bit of a silly question but now when i think about it getting the right coatings could make the said metal last another 20 years or so.
Dix
Hmmm, wouldn't be much of an issue losing a few sparks from the ARB but you wouldn't want to wear holes through the sussy arms Dix
That said they are a good thickness, 2mm plus I think.I have sandblast and powdercoat here but the coating is a horrendously messy business. Used it to do a few bits on my Esprit but couldn't get the same sort of thicknesses the pro's do. Spent longer sweeping up the overspray dust afterwards!
POR15 works well over rust. but is not UV stable so your need to paint over it for a final colour and finish.
depends on how much spare time you got, as it can be easier to just drop them off to powder coaters who will acid strip all the old paint and rust off, and then give it nice finish (as long as its not pitted)
power coat can be a bit think so you may need to use some wet&dry on the bits where it goes into the chassis.
depends on how much spare time you got, as it can be easier to just drop them off to powder coaters who will acid strip all the old paint and rust off, and then give it nice finish (as long as its not pitted)
power coat can be a bit think so you may need to use some wet&dry on the bits where it goes into the chassis.
Just in the process of rebuilding my chassis and suspension on my 350i, after having done some research and budgeting (as i havent got an endless supply of readies), i have opted to bead blast all components then apply ACT products epoxy 2 part paint kits,available from ebay. This is going to be sprayed on and then i am looking for a suitable lacquer to protect the surface. I think this should give adequate protection for a good few years and look good too.I'm also going to waxoyl the tube inners. You have only got to look at the powder coated chassis of TVR's to see it doesn't last very long. My nearest powder coating company said it was good for about 5 years - thats not enough for me as I don't want to lift the body off again in a hurry ! Others out there may have better ideas - i'm all ears and willing to try other methods if they aren't too expensive. Would upload some pics of the car but still havent mastered it yet. Really enjoying the forum by the way.
Andy
Andy
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff