Boot Gas Strut & Solenoid
Discussion
The boot lid on my V8S is tending to refuse to open. It can take many prods on the boot release button to get it to open and I can't guarantee that it will open at all.
The worry is that I won't be able to take the roof off if I can't stow it in the boot.
It may be that the solenoid is going a bit iffy or that the gas strut is lacking a bit of push.
Does anyone have part numbers and suppliers of the solenoid and gas strut please?
Bob
The worry is that I won't be able to take the roof off if I can't stow it in the boot.

It may be that the solenoid is going a bit iffy or that the gas strut is lacking a bit of push.
Does anyone have part numbers and suppliers of the solenoid and gas strut please?
Bob
Bobhon said:
The worry is that I won't be able to take the roof off if I can't stow it in the boot. 
or that the roof is off and then it rains and your in sh*t street.
as a suggestion before you look to replace the solenoid id test it - wire it to another switch (or just connect the wires up)and see if it opens then.
could simply be a dodgy switch
Not sure how up to date these are but worth a try.
From PH parts list
Boot gas strut - Stabilus part No. 484415
Strut marked Stabilus 484415 0100N 22/90F11 Stabilus tel 01295 274777 £20.90 & vat`
From alternative parts list
Boot gas strut - same as above.
Solenoid - www.mod-wise.co.uk - looking at the website you'd need to give them a call.
Does say £4.80 on the parts list
Both links above can be accessed from the sticky on the S forum.
From PH parts list
Boot gas strut - Stabilus part No. 484415
Strut marked Stabilus 484415 0100N 22/90F11 Stabilus tel 01295 274777 £20.90 & vat`
From alternative parts list
Boot gas strut - same as above.
Solenoid - www.mod-wise.co.uk - looking at the website you'd need to give them a call.
Does say £4.80 on the parts list
Both links above can be accessed from the sticky on the S forum.
boot gas strut from here (that Gerald gets everywhere!) They sorted me out a pair for the Taimar, very helpful bunch.
Seem to recall the name "Maplins" crops up a lot regarding solenoids on the Chimaera Forum
think the soleniod is "live" and pressing the button makes the earth? A TVR with a bad earth....never
Seem to recall the name "Maplins" crops up a lot regarding solenoids on the Chimaera Forum

think the soleniod is "live" and pressing the button makes the earth? A TVR with a bad earth....never

If you remove the solenoid assembly from the car you will see what a crap bit of design the whole thing is - really poor angles for leverage if I remember correctly.
A bit of lube helps but it could really do with a rethink.
Adjusting the boot lid so it isn't held down so hard can also help - but then you start to run the risk of water getting in (or more water no doubt in some cases!)
A bit of lube helps but it could really do with a rethink.
Adjusting the boot lid so it isn't held down so hard can also help - but then you start to run the risk of water getting in (or more water no doubt in some cases!)
My boot solenoid failed, (actually its not technically a solenoid but a motor) but boot was sticking before it failed as you describe. I opened it manually then replaced the motor with this Maplin version
http://www.maplin.co.uk/2-wire-door-lock-motor-123...
I fixed the sticking by subtley adjusting the little circular barrel thing on the underside of the bootlid that inserts into the lock mechanism. If this if slightly out it'll make the lock release harder hence the need to keep hitting the boot release button.
Hope that helps. May not be explained too well...
http://www.maplin.co.uk/2-wire-door-lock-motor-123...
I fixed the sticking by subtley adjusting the little circular barrel thing on the underside of the bootlid that inserts into the lock mechanism. If this if slightly out it'll make the lock release harder hence the need to keep hitting the boot release button.
Hope that helps. May not be explained too well...
gizzardio said:
My boot solenoid failed, (actually its not technically a solenoid but a motor) but boot was sticking before it failed as you describe. I opened it manually then replaced the motor with this Maplin version
http://www.maplin.co.uk/2-wire-door-lock-motor-123...
I fixed the sticking by subtley adjusting the little circular barrel thing on the underside of the bootlid that inserts into the lock mechanism. If this if slightly out it'll make the lock release harder hence the need to keep hitting the boot release button.
Hope that helps. May not be explained too well...
Beaten to it - Another recommendation for the Maplins one.http://www.maplin.co.uk/2-wire-door-lock-motor-123...
I fixed the sticking by subtley adjusting the little circular barrel thing on the underside of the bootlid that inserts into the lock mechanism. If this if slightly out it'll make the lock release harder hence the need to keep hitting the boot release button.
Hope that helps. May not be explained too well...
phillpot said:
boot gas strut from here (that Gerald gets everywhere!) They sorted me out a pair for the Taimar, very helpful bunch.
Seem to recall the name "Maplins" crops up a lot regarding solenoids on the Chimaera Forum
think the soleniod is "live" and pressing the button makes the earth? A TVR with a bad earth....never
MikeSeem to recall the name "Maplins" crops up a lot regarding solenoids on the Chimaera Forum

think the soleniod is "live" and pressing the button makes the earth? A TVR with a bad earth....never

Thanks for that, a veritable font of knowledeg on all things S.
If you're trading up to a stainless version then I could take yours off your hands with the ritual exchange of beer vouchers. Otherwise I'll get one on order from SGS.
Bob
gizzardio said:
My boot solenoid failed, (actually its not technically a solenoid but a motor) but boot was sticking before it failed as you describe. I opened it manually then replaced the motor with this Maplin version
http://www.maplin.co.uk/2-wire-door-lock-motor-123...
I fixed the sticking by subtley adjusting the little circular barrel thing on the underside of the bootlid that inserts into the lock mechanism. If this if slightly out it'll make the lock release harder hence the need to keep hitting the boot release button.
Hope that helps. May not be explained too well...
Thanks Robhttp://www.maplin.co.uk/2-wire-door-lock-motor-123...
I fixed the sticking by subtley adjusting the little circular barrel thing on the underside of the bootlid that inserts into the lock mechanism. If this if slightly out it'll make the lock release harder hence the need to keep hitting the boot release button.
Hope that helps. May not be explained too well...
That's handy as there's a Tandy in Solihull and my wife wants to take me clothes shopping
I could kill 2 birds with one stone.Subtle adjustment of the barrel sounds good too, but I checked and it isn't showing any scuff marks to indicate that it's binding up.
I can hear the solenoid (lock motor) trying to move, but either it doesn't have the grunt to release or the gas strut just can't get it up any more (ooer missus). For just a few quid I may as well replace both.
Thanks to all for the help, great forum.
Bob
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