For those about to...
Discussion
Wedg1e said:
Now, can anyone spot what's missing... 
I dont care..I want one...
...I take it that its for a round straight K&N...In that case it will need a lip on the two plates to hold it in position...Even if it had a small raised lip then a mesh could be use to hold the filter...ZigaYep, you're all correct, it's the centring tabs. I've always thought they were a bit poo on my car, the filter gets pushed out of shape when the bonnet closes. Didn't want to weld something on as the plates are anodised alloy and it'd ruin the finish so I was looking at rivetting something on.
This particular set is spoken for but I could look at costs for multiple units if there's some interest. My car has stainless plates but I opted for alloy as it's easier to work (and lighter
).
This particular set is spoken for but I could look at costs for multiple units if there's some interest. My car has stainless plates but I opted for alloy as it's easier to work (and lighter
).hallsie said:
I was going to say, the TVR logo milled into the end cap and colour matched to you car, but Im guessing thats wrong?
Looks good mate, Ill be up for a set too, can you send my Oz centre cap aswell if you are finished with it?
Stu
I suppose I could send them down to Dave (York33), he's got CNC engraving capability, I haven't Looks good mate, Ill be up for a set too, can you send my Oz centre cap aswell if you are finished with it?
Stu

Must get round to measuring that cap, it's been an ornament on my desk for a while now

Ian, looks excellent, you are a genius my friend 
Yep, you guessed it, I am the lucky recipient of Ian's hard work
:bounce
Obviously Ian will be getting some
tokens from me with gratitude 
Coincidently I have cleaned some of the engine bay up today, not a huge difference but getting there slowly but surely.
I think that I need a new coil though as it still doesn't like hot starting.
Have cleaned all plugs, leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, disconnected cold start injector...
It is better but still not perfect.
Quick question please.........my dizzy is a mallory one and the coil is a msd jobby. Is it better to get a new msd coil or will a standard one be fine ???
Thanks Ian again and regards to all
Ian

Yep, you guessed it, I am the lucky recipient of Ian's hard work
:bounceObviously Ian will be getting some
tokens from me with gratitude 
Coincidently I have cleaned some of the engine bay up today, not a huge difference but getting there slowly but surely.
I think that I need a new coil though as it still doesn't like hot starting.
Have cleaned all plugs, leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, disconnected cold start injector...
It is better but still not perfect.
Quick question please.........my dizzy is a mallory one and the coil is a msd jobby. Is it better to get a new msd coil or will a standard one be fine ???
Thanks Ian again and regards to all
Ian
Wedg1e said:
I suppose I could send them down to Dave (York33), he's got CNC engraving capability, I haven't 
Must get round to measuring that cap, it's been an ornament on my desk for a while now
I heard my name! Looking good as always Ian, your shiny bits I meant! I could be persuaded.....
Must get round to measuring that cap, it's been an ornament on my desk for a while now

OK, had a measure, had a think, had a rummage in my stores
and came up with this:



I only realised earlier on that when I made the airfilter adapter to fit my Jaguar AFM, I didn't bother with machining the standoff pillars, I just used 4 lengths of studding and a cluster of nuts... far quicker and just as efficient
and came up with this:I only realised earlier on that when I made the airfilter adapter to fit my Jaguar AFM, I didn't bother with machining the standoff pillars, I just used 4 lengths of studding and a cluster of nuts... far quicker and just as efficient

Thanks again Ian, greatly appreciated.
By the way do I need to install the inner circular plate jobby (where the 4 rods go into and then into the end plate) within the plates that you made too ? I see you have in the pics.
In a rush to test the k&n I didn't install it ???
Kind Regards
Ian
PS Long live PH, I would be completely without it
By the way do I need to install the inner circular plate jobby (where the 4 rods go into and then into the end plate) within the plates that you made too ? I see you have in the pics.
In a rush to test the k&n I didn't install it ???
Kind Regards
Ian
PS Long live PH, I would be completely without it

maston said:
Thanks again Ian, greatly appreciated.
By the way do I need to install the inner circular plate jobby (where the 4 rods go into and then into the end plate) within the plates that you made too ? I see you have in the pics.
In a rush to test the k&n I didn't install it ???
Ian..What are you like...Im sure what ever you have been sent needs to be installed as a complete unit..Does it ressemble the pic that wedg1e has put up?...If your K&N is not fitted properly then you are going to pull dirt into the AFM which will start causing all sorts of other problems...Tut tut...ziga By the way do I need to install the inner circular plate jobby (where the 4 rods go into and then into the end plate) within the plates that you made too ? I see you have in the pics.
In a rush to test the k&n I didn't install it ???
maston said:
Thanks again Ian, greatly appreciated.
By the way do I need to install the inner circular plate jobby (where the 4 rods go into and then into the end plate) within the plates that you made too ? I see you have in the pics.
Up to you mate, try it with and without; see if it makes any difference, would be useful to know for future reference By the way do I need to install the inner circular plate jobby (where the 4 rods go into and then into the end plate) within the plates that you made too ? I see you have in the pics.

I did chamfer the square hole so that the air isn't trying to charge round a sharp corner but it's entirely possible that the original inlet adapter makes a better job of it. All it's for really is to provide an attachment point for the original Rover inlet hose and change the duct from a round bore to a square one... but how smoothly it does it is anyone's guess.
I imagine there'll be someone around these parts with a Doctorate in aerodynamics who can explain it to us...

Actually, I know someone with a Doctorate in aerodynamics... but the last I heard he was busy designing missiles so I guess this'd be small beer 
Wedg1e said:
All it's for really is to provide an attachment point for the original Rover inlet hose and change the duct from a round bore to a square one... but how smoothly it does it is anyone's guess.
That's what I'm talking about, the original inlet adapter.Also thanks for confirming the above, see Mark, I'm not completely clueless


I will try it with the original adapter anyway because I have got to oil the filter anyway. I'm sure the filter will be fine without the oil for a bit anyway. Well, it's going to have to be !!!
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