1999 C70 T5 - What to look out for
Discussion
I might be going to look a cheap C70 this week, so thought I'd better find out a bit more about them!
This is a 1999 model with 110k miles.
I've not seen it yet, but apparently it's in remarkably good condition, and has a FSH.
Is there anything in particular I should be looking out for?
By the sounds of fuel economy is going to be pretty dismal, but as I won't be driving it very far/keeping it for too long hoepfully it won't be much of an issue.
This is a 1999 model with 110k miles.
I've not seen it yet, but apparently it's in remarkably good condition, and has a FSH.
Is there anything in particular I should be looking out for?
By the sounds of fuel economy is going to be pretty dismal, but as I won't be driving it very far/keeping it for too long hoepfully it won't be much of an issue.
There was a little chat a while back on the Volvo sub-forum;
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Hopefully that might help.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Hopefully that might help.
Just the usual I think, I've been motoring around in my '99 one too for the last 6 months (done about 10k in that time I think).
First thing I did was throw it through a full service inc. a cambelt change. Although I also had the following issues:
First thing I did was throw it through a full service inc. a cambelt change. Although I also had the following issues:
Volvo Service people said:
Brake fluid failed test - £90.96
Coolant looks weak - £74.16
OSF disc backing plate rusted/rotted through - £143.28
NSF anti roll bar link worn - £98.40
Rear support bracket, exhaust, broken - £76.80
Top engine mount split - £107.04
Turbo return seal visual leak - £101.70
NSF window won't lower, suspect issue with motor - £468.96
Engine light on. ECM software 1st step - £58.00
Not all of the bits I had fixed, and some of the bits I did myself.Coolant looks weak - £74.16
OSF disc backing plate rusted/rotted through - £143.28
NSF anti roll bar link worn - £98.40
Rear support bracket, exhaust, broken - £76.80
Top engine mount split - £107.04
Turbo return seal visual leak - £101.70
NSF window won't lower, suspect issue with motor - £468.96
Engine light on. ECM software 1st step - £58.00
They eat suspension bushes, and there was an issue with ETMs for many years but that should be sorted at that mileage.
I think they share the same integrated handbrake shoes inside the rear hubs that the S60/V70 have. They can disintegrate so check it holds okay on a slope. Its not a big job to change them - just fiddly.
Head units are prone to failure and integrated into the dash, so replacement can be a PITA.
Hugely receptive to remaps - see vpcuk.org for better owner experience. Good luck!
I think they share the same integrated handbrake shoes inside the rear hubs that the S60/V70 have. They can disintegrate so check it holds okay on a slope. Its not a big job to change them - just fiddly.
Head units are prone to failure and integrated into the dash, so replacement can be a PITA.
Hugely receptive to remaps - see vpcuk.org for better owner experience. Good luck!
Have a look at the other thread as everything should be there. I've had mine for over a year now and it's just gone past 150K. The biggest expense at my last service was the labour charge for fixing the cable which tips the seat forward. I thought I'd bodged it enough to pass the MOT but I hadn't and had to pay £150 for the garage to do it properly. Apart from that my year of ownership has involved a pair of tyres and a heater matrix which I fitted myself.
The ETM issue doesn't affect cars of that age. Mechanically, check that the turbo has been done within the last 50k as they generally lunch them around 80k; check when the clutch was last done because they munch them too; a reasonably fresh set of front tires are advisable because they will last 10k tops and as someone else has said, they wear through bushes quite quickly so check for any play in the suspension.
Check check and check again with the front electric windows, any funny noises or one being slower than the other is a sign the mechanism is on its way out and is painfully expensive to replace.
Also any bad wind noise from the front windows as the doors typically need re-aligning at some point due to them being way too heavy.
Suspension bushes as mentioned will no doubt need changing, put on full lock if get some unusual noises dont panic just need some grease on the lock stops.
If the clutch, gearbox and engine are sound it will likely be a very good car. Ive had 3 and loved them all!
Also any bad wind noise from the front windows as the doors typically need re-aligning at some point due to them being way too heavy.
Suspension bushes as mentioned will no doubt need changing, put on full lock if get some unusual noises dont panic just need some grease on the lock stops.
If the clutch, gearbox and engine are sound it will likely be a very good car. Ive had 3 and loved them all!
chrisispringles said:
The ETM issue doesn't affect cars of that age.
That's EXACTLY the age of cars affected by the ETM issues. (1998- 2000) Have a look at the Volvo forum for what to look for but be aware a faulty ETM is a £500 hit and bodges rarely hold for long. They're pretty good body-wise but unusually for a Volvo, the mechanics aren't great.
Also have good play with the steering, they have a terrible turning circle and often get cranked hard against the lock stops which wears them clean off sometimes. Also make sure no-one's filled the pump with ATF because that kills all the seals, resulting in a sticky feel when you turn. Make sure it'll do lock-to-lock easily at standstill when the engine's idling.
kpb said:
Head units are prone to failure and integrated into the dash, so replacement can be a PITA.!
The head unit is just about the easiest thing to remove ever...There are two little latches either side of the unit, which you push in a small way. They will spring out, then you simply pull them forward, stick your fingers through the holes and pull. Voila, one removed head unit.
The phase 2 cars with the floating dash are a chew, but a 1999 one will be a phase 1 so no such hassle.
The multichanger mech can be a chew, but the main problem with these is the laser becoming dirty. Takes about 20 mins to remove, strip, clean and refit.
Also, I'm not 100% on this but a 99 car stands a good chance of not being a DBW car, so therefore won't be affected by etm problems, as it will have a throttle cable rather than the electronic throttle module! Dead easy to check, look under the bonnet for a throttle cable!
Edited by Mr Happy on Wednesday 24th October 18:31
fat freddie said:
That's EXACTLY the age of cars affected by the ETM issues. (1998- 2000) Have a look at the Volvo forum for what to look for but be aware a faulty ETM is a £500 hit and bodges rarely hold for long.
They're pretty good body-wise but unusually for a Volvo, the mechanics aren't great.
My mistake, I thought that the C70 was mechanically identical to the p1 V70, it didn't click that they'd put the etm in everything, not just new models at the time. That being said, I have read that it can be replaced for around £250, still far from ideal but better than a £500 kick in the nads. It all seems to depend on the labour rates of your garage, they can vary between £60p/h and £100+p/h, so it is worth shopping around.They're pretty good body-wise but unusually for a Volvo, the mechanics aren't great.
fat freddie said:
.Also have good play with the steering, they have a terrible turning circle and often get cranked hard against the lock stops which wears them clean off sometimes. Also make sure no-one's filled the pump with ATF because that kills all the seals, resulting in a sticky feel when you turn. Make sure it'll do lock-to-lock easily at standstill when the engine's idling.
They have an excellent turning circle - it is basically a 850 underneath which was specifically designed to have a good turning circle as Volvo thought their customers would not convert to FWD otherwise.confused_buyer said:
They have an excellent turning circle - it is basically a 850 underneath which was specifically designed to have a good turning circle as Volvo thought their customers would not convert to FWD otherwise.
The C70 turning circle is quite poor. I say this with being a frequent user of one until a year ago. Like the Pug 306 it's not enough to make the car impractical in any way. bga said:
The C70 turning circle is quite poor. I say this with being a frequent user of one until a year ago. Like the Pug 306 it's not enough to make the car impractical in any way.
I'll second the poor turning circle, my c70 is like a canal boat compared to my old 850 T5 Look for seized rear brakes
Engine management issues
Regular oil changes are a must if not your VVT Cam reset valve will sludge up bring the engine management light on
Make sure the doors line up well as the will be noisey if not
They are quite hard on their suspension so check clonking and knocking
Make sure there is no uneven tyre wear - in particular check the inside edges
bga said:
The C70 turning circle is quite poor. I say this with being a frequent user of one until a year ago. Like the Pug 306 it's not enough to make the car impractical in any way.
Must admit I haven't driven a late one for some time. I think they upped the wheel size on the later ones and therefore had to move the steering stoppers.I bet it is still better than the P2 platform (S60/V70/S80) cars though.
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