Best chassis paint in engine bay... to take the heat....
Discussion
With my engine out I can get stuck into cleaning up the engine bay... where the manifoulds run on top of the chassis rails and where the exhaust passes down the LHS, the heat has bubbled the original powder coating..... As you can see, under the bubbles there is no rust so got it in time
but obviously want to put something back that's better...
Have used POR15 on the outriggers but not sure if it will take the heat?... anything recommended at all
cheers


but obviously want to put something back that's better...Have used POR15 on the outriggers but not sure if it will take the heat?... anything recommended at all
cheersThis question was always at the back of my mind and i did ponder it for a while. I have recently checked under it and its fine. Having said that mine is rarely if ever out in the rain.
The ideal like you say will be to find paint that will take the heat. Mine was powder coat though and as you can see from yours the exhaust will just take it in time.
The ideal like you say will be to find paint that will take the heat. Mine was powder coat though and as you can see from yours the exhaust will just take it in time.
carsy said:
Cant help with the paint but when i finished mine i wrapped those top rails with some heat reflective material to help out with the heat.
Same here no regrets 6 years + don't see much weather or salt action to worry, although as of late car not seen much of anything full stop
interestingly the POR 15 next to the cat (cross brace) discoloured but never peeled or flaked when I had one fitted 
Yes.. I do like my set up now.... but it chatters on the over-rum at around 1300 rpm.. Rob's 100% sure it's piston to pin so I'm in for a look... depending what I find will determine the way I go with regards to bore size.... It could be a £380 piston job... .or a lot more if I need to re-size 
anyway... we'll see what I find

anyway... we'll see what I find

maybe you can use something like this? its in white or black but maybe not heat resistance enough?
http://www.agriemach.com/c319/ceramic-insulation/p...
Lizardskin...also anti rust and or moist.
or maybe this? this one can handle 760c
http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pCode=0...
http://www.agriemach.com/c319/ceramic-insulation/p...
Lizardskin...also anti rust and or moist.
or maybe this? this one can handle 760c
http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pCode=0...
said:
POR-15 Factory Manifold Paint - Gray
POR-15 Exhaust Manifold Gray paint is a high temperature gray paint capable of withstanding extreme temperatures up to 1400F (760C). This heat resistant paint will maintain a durable iron gray colour and won't burn off. Can be used on all cars, domestic or foreign, and meets or exceeds properties and requirments of MIL-C-13370. POR-15 Exhaust Manifold Paint can be brushed or thined down for spraying using POR-15 Solvent (094.927)
POR-15 Exhaust Manifold Gray paint is a high temperature gray paint capable of withstanding extreme temperatures up to 1400F (760C). This heat resistant paint will maintain a durable iron gray colour and won't burn off. Can be used on all cars, domestic or foreign, and meets or exceeds properties and requirments of MIL-C-13370. POR-15 Exhaust Manifold Paint can be brushed or thined down for spraying using POR-15 Solvent (094.927)
Edited by GTRene on Sunday 28th October 22:59
I really like this stuff, but it is silver. It seems to have a very high metal content so it layers up nicely, and does not seem to be porous like the "VHT " paints that go on complete matt. Its a satin type finish, and with some careful masking would go along side the white quite nicely.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130643449437?ssPageName=...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130643449437?ssPageName=...
Cheers Mark... but your right.. it's silver.....
I need something that will go on the cleaned metal... but also on the powder where I've not removed it as it's solid... How do you key POR 15 to the powder?.. I must have done it before
So I've got a good start now... taken me about 6 hours but all the loose / bubbled bits are off. It's all de-greased.... and I've got the metal back to a nice shiny finish...... and gone a bit mad as I've done more than I thought in places because there was a small scratch or something
What next??
... Pub I guess!!

I need something that will go on the cleaned metal... but also on the powder where I've not removed it as it's solid... How do you key POR 15 to the powder?.. I must have done it before

So I've got a good start now... taken me about 6 hours but all the loose / bubbled bits are off. It's all de-greased.... and I've got the metal back to a nice shiny finish...... and gone a bit mad as I've done more than I thought in places because there was a small scratch or something

What next??
... Pub I guess!!Edited by TVR Beaver on Saturday 17th November 20:32
looks almost like a stainless steel chassis so clean...
there are also some good heat resisted alu or zinc-sprays...some can handle high temps say 600c and are good against corrosion, apply some layers and then it has to dry about 24h I believe...
maybe a good ground for the chassis.
there are also some good heat resisted alu or zinc-sprays...some can handle high temps say 600c and are good against corrosion, apply some layers and then it has to dry about 24h I believe...
maybe a good ground for the chassis.
Edited by GTRene on Saturday 17th November 22:00
yes... the powder although bubbled had not actualy split.. so you could scrape it off and it looked almosed galvanised underneath!...
question is.. do I take it all off... or can I patch it up and then top coat it White with rad paint or something?..
How I'd love to get the chassis out and get the full thing done
One day!!
question is.. do I take it all off... or can I patch it up and then top coat it White with rad paint or something?..
How I'd love to get the chassis out and get the full thing done

One day!!

I think it looks way to good to do a body off...
I would do it as you suggested, sounds good to me and then maybe some years later when you need another big update (say engine/drive-train etc) then do it all in one time.
I see you also have some outrigger protection rubber shield? nicely done.
I would do it as you suggested, sounds good to me and then maybe some years later when you need another big update (say engine/drive-train etc) then do it all in one time.
I see you also have some outrigger protection rubber shield? nicely done.
Edited by GTRene on Saturday 17th November 23:29
Yes... did a body lift about 4 years ago... did all the outriggers back to metal then POR15'd them.. they are solid... made the guards at the same time but TBH once POR15's on there nothings getting through!...
You are right... the rest of the chassis is mint so I can't justify a full body off... but just want it to be the best I can get it...
Whould hate to put it all back in a find the paint bubbling after the first few runs...
Not the best pic but you get the idea... removed in seconds.. bolts onto the front body mount and screws into an insert in the inner wing..
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You are right... the rest of the chassis is mint so I can't justify a full body off... but just want it to be the best I can get it...
Whould hate to put it all back in a find the paint bubbling after the first few runs...

Not the best pic but you get the idea... removed in seconds.. bolts onto the front body mount and screws into an insert in the inner wing..
.
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Edited by TVR Beaver on Sunday 18th November 12:16
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