Do I need a winter road bike?
Discussion
mudguards. apart from that there isnt one. i use the RS all year round but you cant fit any mudguards to it because of clearance issues so its really a case of a wet backside and annoying other riders behind you or no ride if its wet. just wasj it with a cleaner and some hot water afterwards, keep it clean and lubed etc.
if you want a new bike, dependant on the budget but I would look at some cx bikes with discs and then go hunt some local bridleways and annoy the mtbers!
if you want a new bike, dependant on the budget but I would look at some cx bikes with discs and then go hunt some local bridleways and annoy the mtbers!
I'm not sure about a carbon frame but I had a Prolite custom build built in August and I just think its too nice to take out in the rain so I bought one of these:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/charge-filter-mid-2012/
I managed to pick it up for £470.00 from wiggle last week, don't know why its gone up? Should be ideal for the winter roads to keep up my fitness.
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/charge-filter-mid-2012/
I managed to pick it up for £470.00 from wiggle last week, don't know why its gone up? Should be ideal for the winter roads to keep up my fitness.
If you can fit a 5mm allen key between the forks and your tyres (under the fork crown) then you should be able to fit Crud RoadRacers mk2. They fit CAAD's with 23mm tyres so your SuperSix will have similar clearance.
ETA: Here's a thread http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40... - not so good comments about the SKS race blades chipping paintwork
ETA: Here's a thread http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40... - not so good comments about the SKS race blades chipping paintwork
Edited by itsnotarace on Tuesday 6th November 09:13
Fixed gear winter bike is what you need. Keeps the legs moving and saves on drivetrain grief. I run a fixed tricross, but a neighbour has just got a Dolan winter fixed that I can't see on their website. Brilliant tool for keeping your fitness up as the roads get grotty. Condor tempo would be another good winter option.
Winter bikes are for fags and pansies. All this talk of not wanting to get their carbon bike wet and salty makes me laugh... I've got a carbon boat which I take out in the sea on a weekly basis and funnily enough that is still ok! Get over yourselves and get out there on your normal bike. The sooner you wear it out the sooner you can buy a new decent one! (all in my good humoured opinion of course!)
timnoyce said:
Winter bikes are for fags and pansies. All this talk of not wanting to get their carbon bike wet and salty makes me laugh... I've got a carbon boat which I take out in the sea on a weekly basis and funnily enough that is still ok! Get over yourselves and get out there on your normal bike. The sooner you wear it out the sooner you can buy a new decent one! (all in my good humoured opinion of course!)
No, if you are a serious cyclist and have some common sense you ride a bike suitable for the conditions ie, in winter one with mudguards and wider tyres. You dont drive your track car on the road all through winter do you...Well this is my first winter on the Supersix, and 2nd winter riding. Last year the Boardman did a great job of lasting through the wet and mucky months with a set of Crud RR2s so when shopping for the Dale, hearing that it could fit these was music to my ears.
I had replaced the Aksions it came with for a set of Conti GP4000s but when it came to getting the guards to fit, there wasnt enough clearance on the front. They are the 23mm versions but they do roll quite highly.
I've just swapped over the Aksions today (Been riding without guards on occasion but most of the time on the Turbo due to the awful weather), and I can now get a 5mm allen key under it comfortably at the front. I'll be fitting the guards later on.
I plan to use the Supersix all winter as 1, its Carbon so it wont rust like an Alu/Steel bike and 2, if I wear these components out, then I would have only worn components out on the winter bike anyway. They are 105 so not going to break the bank for a chain & sprockets if required. Wheels should be good also but if they too start showing signs of wear, at least I can then justify having a nice set of summer wheels to complement the bike.
I know someone else who used the Supersix all of last year and he said it was great. I might as well enjoy my good bike all year round rather than riding a snotter through winter just to be able to keep this one clean all of the time.
I had replaced the Aksions it came with for a set of Conti GP4000s but when it came to getting the guards to fit, there wasnt enough clearance on the front. They are the 23mm versions but they do roll quite highly.
I've just swapped over the Aksions today (Been riding without guards on occasion but most of the time on the Turbo due to the awful weather), and I can now get a 5mm allen key under it comfortably at the front. I'll be fitting the guards later on.
I plan to use the Supersix all winter as 1, its Carbon so it wont rust like an Alu/Steel bike and 2, if I wear these components out, then I would have only worn components out on the winter bike anyway. They are 105 so not going to break the bank for a chain & sprockets if required. Wheels should be good also but if they too start showing signs of wear, at least I can then justify having a nice set of summer wheels to complement the bike.
I know someone else who used the Supersix all of last year and he said it was great. I might as well enjoy my good bike all year round rather than riding a snotter through winter just to be able to keep this one clean all of the time.
thiscocks said:
No, if you are a serious cyclist and have some common sense you ride a bike suitable for the conditions ie, in winter one with mudguards and wider tyres. You dont drive your track car on the road all through winter do you...
Muguards are a nice addition for sure, tyres though, summer tyres usually grip best in both wet and dry conditions, the only reason I use a different tyre is to get less flats, its not for grip etc.I have a 'winter' bike, but its relegated to the commute usually, so I'll ride the nice one outside as long as the weather isn't horrific, in which case I'll use the turbo.
I raced my race bike in some of the most horrendous conditions you can imagine this summer, it still lives to tell the tail...
The only thing that worries me about any of it, is falling off. Yes I know that you can easily damage a steel or Alu frame in an accident but I worry that it'll get trashed.
There was a winter training group that did evening sessions last winter on a closed cycle circuit. I went to a few and really enjoyed it, but at times it was risky with inexperienced riders riding in close proximity. Its just started again this year and I'm tempted to go but a little worried at the possibility of binning it. Its a factor I never really considered until I bought an expensive ride.
There was a winter training group that did evening sessions last winter on a closed cycle circuit. I went to a few and really enjoyed it, but at times it was risky with inexperienced riders riding in close proximity. Its just started again this year and I'm tempted to go but a little worried at the possibility of binning it. Its a factor I never really considered until I bought an expensive ride.
Winter absolutely knackers transmissions. My winter bike has relatively a low end groupset on it, that I don't mind chains, mechs, sprockets getting trashed by rain/mud/salt. My Chorus-equipped summer bike stays on the wall and feels lovely to ride when April comes around. Decent mudguards also make winter riding much more pleasant, not only for you, but for the people you're riding with.
I've also got an intermediate better bike for "non-wet winter days" so have most bases covered
I've also got an intermediate better bike for "non-wet winter days" so have most bases covered
timnoyce said:
Winter bikes are for fags and pansies. All this talk of not wanting to get their carbon bike wet and salty makes me laugh... I've got a carbon boat which I take out in the sea on a weekly basis and funnily enough that is still ok! Get over yourselves and get out there on your normal bike. The sooner you wear it out the sooner you can buy a new decent one! (all in my good humoured opinion of course!)
It's not the frame, it's the drive train, brakes, wheels, pedals etc. that get trashed. okgo said:
Muguards are a nice addition for sure, tyres though, summer tyres usually grip best in both wet and dry conditions, the only reason I use a different tyre is to get less flats, its not for grip etc.
I have a 'winter' bike, but its relegated to the commute usually, so I'll ride the nice one outside as long as the weather isn't horrific, in which case I'll use the turbo.
I raced my race bike in some of the most horrendous conditions you can imagine this summer, it still lives to tell the tail...
I use bigger tyres as well as more puncture proof ones. I'll probably do over 1000km in the dark between now and Xmas, and I'm bound to clatter through some potholes. I wouldn't want to do that on 23mm tyres. My Tricross is currently running 35mm. It's complete overkill, but it feels indestructible.I have a 'winter' bike, but its relegated to the commute usually, so I'll ride the nice one outside as long as the weather isn't horrific, in which case I'll use the turbo.
I raced my race bike in some of the most horrendous conditions you can imagine this summer, it still lives to tell the tail...
I have to ride whatever the weather (commuting is my only riding time), so I can't pick and choose the weather I ride in. I could sacrifice my drivetrain to the grot, but running fixed keeps me warm and saves on chains / chainrings / cassettes. I did a whole winter on it last year with zero maintenance, and only needed new front pads and a £9 chain this month - nothing before.
Plus, going fixed for winter, it's tradition (or so the Clarion types tell me).
outnumbered said:
Winter absolutely knackers transmissions. My winter bike has relatively a low end groupset on it, that I don't mind chains, mechs, sprockets getting trashed by rain/mud/salt. My Chorus-equipped summer bike stays on the wall and feels lovely to ride when April comes around. Decent mudguards also make winter riding much more pleasant, not only for you, but for the people you're riding with.
I've also got an intermediate better bike for "non-wet winter days" so have most bases covered
You mean you don't buy a new dura ace group every march anyway? I've also got an intermediate better bike for "non-wet winter days" so have most bases covered
I know what you mean on transmission, I actually will be buying a new group for the racebike next season so happy to run this ultegra into the ground.
However, they are a lot more hard wearing than you would think, my 105 group on the winter bike has done a year now with nothing but brake pads. SOLID.
i would use a winter bike for an entirely different reason. in my case it doubles up as a my commuter bike but i also use it on the long weekend rides... being a heavier bike with inferior groupset and wider wheels and heavier tyres and hence less efficient and harder to ride, i found last winter that my strength built considerably. as a result. when i get back on the 'summer bike' i can ride much harder and faster for much longer. the benefit of all this is that i've been able to throw my rattles out of the pram when i go for rides with the local club complaining about how slow they are and how they can't climb...
okgo said:
However, they are a lot more hard wearing than you would think, my 105 group on the winter bike has done a year now with nothing but brake pads. SOLID.
I was changing chains monthly last year, chainring and cassette every 3 months. I'm only 70kg, so I can't see that it's that I'm particularly hard on drivetrains.Something very wrong there! In all the miles racing and training I did (up to 450 miles a week), I never wore out a block (old word for cassette), chain or chainrings.
The only time I changed them was to change ratios... or because they had a prettier anodised finish
Have quality standards fallen that far now that you need to change drive train parts several times a year? Hope not because now, as then, I have just the one bike which will get ridden all year.
The only time I changed them was to change ratios... or because they had a prettier anodised finish
Have quality standards fallen that far now that you need to change drive train parts several times a year? Hope not because now, as then, I have just the one bike which will get ridden all year.
DrMekon said:
I was changing chains monthly last year, chainring and cassette every 3 months. I'm only 70kg, so I can't see that it's that I'm particularly hard on drivetrains.
You must be doing something wrong. This chain has done between 7000-9000 miles...it still shifts ok. I do 200 or so miles a week on it. Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff