Discussion
Good evening.
Back in July my dad and I adjusted the tappets. I got the info from Adrian@ and did it all accordingly.
However. Have a rattle noise...rev related, on idle its perfectly fine but any revs and it rattles.
Looking through the oil filler I can see cylinder 4 valves, and the noise occurs in time to the valves/springs moving.
Can anybody help or suggest something I've done? Before we altered them there was never any rattle at all.
I'll post a video I have.
Back in July my dad and I adjusted the tappets. I got the info from Adrian@ and did it all accordingly.
However. Have a rattle noise...rev related, on idle its perfectly fine but any revs and it rattles.
Looking through the oil filler I can see cylinder 4 valves, and the noise occurs in time to the valves/springs moving.
Can anybody help or suggest something I've done? Before we altered them there was never any rattle at all.
I'll post a video I have.
That does not sound good
Rocker covers off and see if anything obvious is very lose or broken?
Still running on all six or hard to tell?
Maybe (but hopefully not) tip broken off spark plug, embedded in piston and hitting valve?
Any little nuts missing from air cleaner that could have fallen in?
Or pulled the rocker studs out of the head, easy to do on an Essex (been there got the T-shirt). You set the tappets everything sounds ok, then after 5-10 miles, it sounds like a bag of nails again. Usually happens on engines that have received some past high revs (guilty as charged!!!)
RCK974X said:
Just a thought, but the underneath of the rockers can wear, so that the feeler guages give a false (and too wide) clearance, which can cause a rattly engine.... or is that too obvious ??
(not too obvious but it would of been ran through with the OP)Yes it is possible to get it wrong, BUT my method is a pictorial AND the numbers of the cylinders are in the casting above the each bore cast into the inlet manifold as is the firing order.
Stop the engine, check all of everything above, by all who has commented.
(Pull the fuel pump out and look though the hole to see the teeth on the cam gear)
Add a valve insert dropping out to your list (on cheap unleaded conversions OR a previously recovered head, as in a single insert that is use to recover a damaged seat).
Add a compression part of the adjuster nut failing (for this is how the nut lock onto the stud).
Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Wednesday 7th November 19:48
pridaux said:
thegamekeeper said:
I have no idea what Adrian@,s tappet adjusting method is but it is possible to do it wrong. Is the noise coming from one side of engine or both?
Perhaps I should leave this to Pridaux. On his own admission he,s a rattle expert.
Someone let you out to play how nice thaught it sounded like your rattle in there Adrians method works fine unless you did not wiggle them about after checking and then go round again checking twicePerhaps I should leave this to Pridaux. On his own admission he,s a rattle expert.
Edited by thegamekeeper on Wednesday 7th November 17:55
I on the otherhand have owned, driven, restored, raced, modified manufactured parts and enjoyed well over 500 TVR,s. Unlike SOME experts I actually DRIVE these things, many 1000,s of miles EVERY year in many countries. I have owned and DRIVEN 14 Turbos, the last one very few years ago.
My original post in this thread was the start of a sytematic and knowledge based approach to trying to resolve the OP,s problem, yours was your usual pointless irrelevant carp.
Is "Pridaux" some ancient word for "premature ejaculation". Look back over your almost year and try to work out for yourself what your actual contribution to these forums has been.
Word of advice to OP. If the engine develops a noise like that DONT rev the tits off it and record it on your phone, turn it off and investigate or seek advice from someone who might know. You can only have made it worse. I have never come across an engine that fixes itself by revving it.
Lets you two can kiss and make up...but please leave me out of the bickering.
Bring it back on track and trying to resolve the Op's issues please.
...from someone who has 4 of his seven TVR's taxed/mot'd and on the road...OK, my Turbo is not on the road!!
Adrian@
Bring it back on track and trying to resolve the Op's issues please.
...from someone who has 4 of his seven TVR's taxed/mot'd and on the road...OK, my Turbo is not on the road!!
Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Wednesday 7th November 20:54
Adrian@ said:
Lets you two can kiss and make up...but please leave me out of the bickering.
Bring it back on track and trying to resolve the Op's issues please.
...from someone who has 4 of his seven TVR's taxed/mot'd and on the road...OK, my Turbo is not on the road!!
Adrian@
Don't remember mentioning you..Bring it back on track and trying to resolve the Op's issues please.
...from someone who has 4 of his seven TVR's taxed/mot'd and on the road...OK, my Turbo is not on the road!!
Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Wednesday 7th November 20:54
thegamekeeper said:
Sorry I meant to say except Cosworth GA, and engines with misfires
And don't forget, if you open the bonnet and rev it direct at the carb there's no limit to high high you can take it, as long as you remember to periodically look towards the back of the car to watch the bad stuff come out of the exhaust and shake your head knowingly..GAjon said:
And don't forget, if you open the bonnet and rev it direct at the carb there's no limit to high high you can take it, as long as you remember to periodically look towards the back of the car to watch the bad stuff come out of the exhaust and shake your head knowingly..
Have to disagree. When enough bad stuff comes out of exhaust engine will limit high revs itself
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