Discussion
Hi Marcus...sorry im not sure what rating they should be but im sure someone will...Especially this fellow wedger..And his very useful site indeed...Ziga
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=w...
Go to cars and then vroom...
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=w...
Go to cars and then vroom...
As far as I know, ALL the diodes only drive relays, so they aren't high current. So the basic IN4001 diode (50 volt 1 amp) should be fine for those applications. They are very cheap, and probably come in packs of 5 or whatever. some stores only stock the higher voltage variants (like IN4007 are good for 1000v), but if they're cheap, they will work just fine.
(I know those IN part numbers from memory, but ANY equivalent diode, 50 volt or greater, 1 amp or greater, will be fine for relay drivers).
the diodes inside the lift/pod motors also only drive relays (unless TVR changed the setup later on, but I don't think so).
Other applications - diodes are available for big currents and voltages, it's all down to price.
If setup was changed and the pod ones take current directly, I'll take a punt and say that probably headlamp pod motors won't suck more than 5 amps (headlamps themselves are 4A (dip) 5A (main) on standard H4 bulbs) so a 50 volt 5A diode should be good for that purpose.
(I know those IN part numbers from memory, but ANY equivalent diode, 50 volt or greater, 1 amp or greater, will be fine for relay drivers).
the diodes inside the lift/pod motors also only drive relays (unless TVR changed the setup later on, but I don't think so).
Other applications - diodes are available for big currents and voltages, it's all down to price.
If setup was changed and the pod ones take current directly, I'll take a punt and say that probably headlamp pod motors won't suck more than 5 amps (headlamps themselves are 4A (dip) 5A (main) on standard H4 bulbs) so a 50 volt 5A diode should be good for that purpose.
Edited by RCK974X on Saturday 10th November 18:33
A quick guide to wiring....
Wiring is one of those things that make a lot of people recoil in horror, but like lots of things, if you approach it logically and methodically, it's not all that scary. (I said this elesewhere !)
The most common problem with Wedges (from the posts here)appear to be with headlamp pods, followed pretty closely by a range of electrical woes.
In order, I reckon these problems can be traced to -
Corrosion of connectors in plugs/sockets _ TVR used some internal ones on the outside
poor earth returns (corrosion too)- always a lot worse on GRP bodyshells
old or burnt relays
bodge jobs by previous owners
wear and tear, age.
You need a good multimeter/testmeter - they aren't expensive and can make finding problems a LOT easier.
Go through the loom and check for broken wires, dodgy looking connectors, odd wiring that doesn't fit, etc. and try to make sense of what's there. It may seem hopeless at first, but it's not - honest ! Unless you have one of the infamous all-black wired wedges (early 2.8) I'm pretty sure all the wires are colour coded, so you can trace them.
The pods aren't that complicated really.
Quick explanation - there is a single relay which produces an UP and a DOWN 'signal' (i.e. power to two different wires), which then drives a relay each for each pod motor. The pod motors have an "At top" and an "At bottom" switch, which are fed by the "UP" and "DOWN" signal so that a relay for each pod switches the motor on until it's at the matching place, when the relevant switch goes "OFF", and the motor stops.
The UP signal happens when headlamps on, and the DOWN when they are off.
The diodes are to make sure that multiple inputs can feed a 'signal'.
A diode is in effect a one way street for electricity.
A simple example is that both "DIP" and "MAIN" headlamp wires can feed to an "UP" signal, but you have to send them via diodes, otherwise both main and dip will always light up ....
I hope this helps and takes away some of the mystery (and horror) for the technophobes !!
Wiring is one of those things that make a lot of people recoil in horror, but like lots of things, if you approach it logically and methodically, it's not all that scary. (I said this elesewhere !)
The most common problem with Wedges (from the posts here)appear to be with headlamp pods, followed pretty closely by a range of electrical woes.
In order, I reckon these problems can be traced to -
Corrosion of connectors in plugs/sockets _ TVR used some internal ones on the outside
poor earth returns (corrosion too)- always a lot worse on GRP bodyshells
old or burnt relays
bodge jobs by previous owners
wear and tear, age.
You need a good multimeter/testmeter - they aren't expensive and can make finding problems a LOT easier.
Go through the loom and check for broken wires, dodgy looking connectors, odd wiring that doesn't fit, etc. and try to make sense of what's there. It may seem hopeless at first, but it's not - honest ! Unless you have one of the infamous all-black wired wedges (early 2.8) I'm pretty sure all the wires are colour coded, so you can trace them.
The pods aren't that complicated really.
Quick explanation - there is a single relay which produces an UP and a DOWN 'signal' (i.e. power to two different wires), which then drives a relay each for each pod motor. The pod motors have an "At top" and an "At bottom" switch, which are fed by the "UP" and "DOWN" signal so that a relay for each pod switches the motor on until it's at the matching place, when the relevant switch goes "OFF", and the motor stops.
The UP signal happens when headlamps on, and the DOWN when they are off.
The diodes are to make sure that multiple inputs can feed a 'signal'.
A diode is in effect a one way street for electricity.
A simple example is that both "DIP" and "MAIN" headlamp wires can feed to an "UP" signal, but you have to send them via diodes, otherwise both main and dip will always light up ....
I hope this helps and takes away some of the mystery (and horror) for the technophobes !!
great rck. i have an black loom, except fir the bodged rewire to the pods by a previous owner!
i think the on/off switches or the diode relays are knackered as the best i can get is for the pods to continually go up and down!
i believe / think that the diodes ought to be separate from relays and inline on a live feed. the previous owner had put 40amp 20v 5 pin relays on which included inbuilt diodes. i cant get them to work at all this way.
does this sound right or should revert back to what i think with inline diodes crimped to the live?
cheers mate
marcus
i think the on/off switches or the diode relays are knackered as the best i can get is for the pods to continually go up and down!
i believe / think that the diodes ought to be separate from relays and inline on a live feed. the previous owner had put 40amp 20v 5 pin relays on which included inbuilt diodes. i cant get them to work at all this way.
does this sound right or should revert back to what i think with inline diodes crimped to the live?
cheers mate
marcus
I agree that 1N4001 are probably what TVR used originally, howeve one has to wonder why these fail if just driving relays, so I would be tempted to replace them with a much higher capacity diode on replacemennt. For example Maplin do a 6A version for a pound, and there is easily enough room to fit them in.
Edited by adam quantrill on Monday 12th November 08:26
if they are going up and down then have a good look at the motor copper switching bar under the plastic square cover that is held on with little nuts on the side of the motor. carefully give a clean where it makes and brakes contact and rough up a bit with a thin nail file. Also check the condition of the cable at the connector blocks under the front wheel arches as the cable corrodes and turns black with age and weather. If in doubt cut it back to good cable and re make the connections. My experience is that 9 times out of 10 the fault lies here that other more complicated guesses. Not sure what they have done with your relays but if the pods and going up and down then i would leave them and hunt for the other problem as above fella
My wedge is a black loom too. It makes finding the right wires quite a bit tougher. Originally those wires had little coloured rubber sleeves, but by now have all rotted and fallen off.....
The small 1A diodes should be fine, but nowadays it's true that 5A diodes cost hardly any more, so use those if you wish.
If the motors run constantly, then the 'OFF' bit isn't working, or it's wired incorrectly, or the diodes have blown (or could be the wrong way round if you have changed them). You need to go through these one by one, and 'tick' each test so you know where you're up to.
A diode can be tested easily with a small testmeter, using resistance test. (Ohms) If you haven't got one, Buy one from local electronics shop, or Maplin etc. They are cheap and worth their wieght in gold for finding electrical problems.
Connected one way round, diode should read infinite resistance, and the other way round it should read very low resistance. If this happens then diode is OK. Diodes are marked with a white or red band at one end. Think of an arrow, where the current flows in the direction of the arrow. The band represents where the arrow points to, so +12 volts will flow from the non band end to the banded end, but not the other way.
Have a look at diagrams in -
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR 390SE p6.htm
http://www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk/maint_headlight.htm...
NB - the diodes are shown as an arrow with a bar, the bar is the banded end of diode.
I would recommend the rewire job be treated as 'suspicious' and check it very carefully. I would go back to plain relays, as then it's more obvious and original. You need 1 'changeover' relay (5 pin) one of the contacts swops over between 2 other pins, and 2 x 4 pin relays which run the motors. To drive the changeove relay, you need a diode from the 'headlamps on' feed (goes to the main and dip relays), or, depening how it's wired, one diode from DIP and one from MAIN, to the relay, so it operates when headlamps are lit.
As valiant says, you also need to check the motor switches work correctly. check the diodes inside, but also check that the two switches (the copper strips) actually work as you turn the motor by hand (again use the test meter) each switch should be ON most of the time, but go OFF at a defined spot, and the other switch should go OFF at 180 degrees around (ie. UP and DOWN). the motor has little pins which lift the copper strips to make them work...
I hope all this makes sense and it helps !!
The small 1A diodes should be fine, but nowadays it's true that 5A diodes cost hardly any more, so use those if you wish.
If the motors run constantly, then the 'OFF' bit isn't working, or it's wired incorrectly, or the diodes have blown (or could be the wrong way round if you have changed them). You need to go through these one by one, and 'tick' each test so you know where you're up to.
A diode can be tested easily with a small testmeter, using resistance test. (Ohms) If you haven't got one, Buy one from local electronics shop, or Maplin etc. They are cheap and worth their wieght in gold for finding electrical problems.
Connected one way round, diode should read infinite resistance, and the other way round it should read very low resistance. If this happens then diode is OK. Diodes are marked with a white or red band at one end. Think of an arrow, where the current flows in the direction of the arrow. The band represents where the arrow points to, so +12 volts will flow from the non band end to the banded end, but not the other way.
Have a look at diagrams in -
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR 390SE p6.htm
http://www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk/maint_headlight.htm...
NB - the diodes are shown as an arrow with a bar, the bar is the banded end of diode.
I would recommend the rewire job be treated as 'suspicious' and check it very carefully. I would go back to plain relays, as then it's more obvious and original. You need 1 'changeover' relay (5 pin) one of the contacts swops over between 2 other pins, and 2 x 4 pin relays which run the motors. To drive the changeove relay, you need a diode from the 'headlamps on' feed (goes to the main and dip relays), or, depening how it's wired, one diode from DIP and one from MAIN, to the relay, so it operates when headlamps are lit.
As valiant says, you also need to check the motor switches work correctly. check the diodes inside, but also check that the two switches (the copper strips) actually work as you turn the motor by hand (again use the test meter) each switch should be ON most of the time, but go OFF at a defined spot, and the other switch should go OFF at 180 degrees around (ie. UP and DOWN). the motor has little pins which lift the copper strips to make them work...
I hope all this makes sense and it helps !!
Edited by RCK974X on Sunday 11th November 20:38
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