Still wont start, need to bypass immobiliser, help!

[LordB]

Won't prime fuel pump, or power the starter. Checked live feeds on all terminals (fuel and solenoid) no voltage. New relays installed for fuel pump and ignition, still nothing. I'm sure now having done lots of searches on the forums that its the immobiliser. Batter has 14.4v across terminals so have good amps.

I think i need to bypass the immobiliser to check live feeds, I've now retrieved the meta box through the radio slot, so have good access to it. But don't have a wiring diagram t help and can't find one anywhere.

Does anyone have a clue where I can get hold of one?

Or any other ideas for that matter........cheers Richard

[Quietlybonkers]

LordB said:

Won't prime fuel pump, or power the starter. Checked live feeds on all terminals (fuel and solenoid) no voltage. New relays installed for fuel pump and ignition, still nothing. I'm sure now having done lots of searches on the forums that its the immobiliser. Batter has 14.4v across terminals so have good amps.

I think i need to bypass the immobiliser to check live feeds, I've now retrieved the meta box through the radio slot, so have good access to it. But don't have a wiring diagram t help and can't find one anywhere.

Does anyone have a clue where I can get hold of one?

Or any other ideas for that matter........cheers Richard

Through the radio slot? I agree there is a Meta bit in there, but.....

On my car the Meta box is in the top part of the dash, extreme left hand side, dash top has to be unbolted to get at it.

When you turn on the ignition, does anything light up on the dash?
If nothing, then it may be your 80 amp fuse. Trace the two wires from the battery positive terminal (get an inspection light first!). The thicker one is the feed back from the alternator, that charges the battery. The thinner one (I think it is brown on my car, and is encased in a black flexy trunk) wanders off towards the fuse board behind the battery. Pull it towards you, and about a foot along its length there is a black plastic case. May be wrapped in black tape. That is the fuse holder. Open it and inspect the fuse. If not sure, unscrew the fuse and see if it is in one piece or two.

If that's not it, then I am a bit puzzled and you may be right about the immobiliser.

Edited by Quietlybonkers on Saturday 17th November 22:48

[LordB]

So there are two boxes for the immobiliser! Bugger that's ruined my plans this morning.......the dash will have to come off then. I've checked the in line fuse already and that's fine.....I have a full dashboard and all another electrics are working fine. Thanks for the idea tho.

[LordB]

Thanks for PM Harryst.

[Quietlybonkers]

LordB said:

So there are two boxes for the immobiliser! Bugger that's ruined my plans this morning.......the dash will have to come off then. I've checked the in line fuse already and that's fine.....I have a full dashboard and all another electrics are working fine. Thanks for the idea tho.

Top off takes less than five minutes with the correct tool ....... which is a 10mm ratchet ring spanner, with a flexible head. Halfrauds sell sets of them if you don't have one.
If you don't know what I mean reply and I will post a photo.

[pk500]

I had this same problem I unplugged the box and plugged it back in and it reset ! Have you checked the fuel cut off switch?

[EGB]

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Helpful.

[LordB]

pk500 said:

I had this same problem I unplugged the box and plugged it back in and it reset ! Have you checked the fuel cut off switch?

Yes done that.

Will have a go at getting the top off. I have a ratchet ring spanner but not flex head......off to halfords later! Thanks for the tip.

[LordB]

EGB said:

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Helpful.

[TV8]

LordB said:

Yes done that.

Will have a go at getting the top off. I have a ratchet ring spanner but not flex head......off to halfords later! Thanks for the tip.

Have a check with your hands before getting tools. A lot will have been changed to wing nuts over the years. If yours hasn't it's worth doing.

[EGB]

Richard. PM me I have wire diagram.

[LordB]

EGB said:

Richard. PM me I have wire diagram.

Many thanks. Harryst emailed me the bypass wiring diagram, and just completed it - she started first turn, so it's definitely a knackered immobiliser. Will have to see about a replacement. Car is in an alarmed garage most of the time.

I checked all the relays were working before I rewired so the M36T2 is going in the bin.....will leave it on for now as it is activating the central locking. A call into Carl Baker is on th cards.......I recon I could refit a new one in an hour or so.

[b-havers]

I have got the same problem for the Meta M36 immobiliser in my Lotus Europa.
I would very much like to have the diagram for a by-pass if anyone can share it with me?

Regards

[Penelope Stopit]

If you post your problem to the Lotus section of this forum I will meet you over there

[b-havers]

done -> https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[subhas]

Can anyone share the bypass wiring. I have the same issue.

A visit to Carl is due, but struggling with ££ just spent a £1k getting it through a mot !

[ChimpOnGas]

subhas said:

Can anyone share the bypass wiring. I have the same issue.

A visit to Carl is due, but struggling with ££ just spent a £1k getting it through a mot !

PM sent Seb, but as I am careful to point out in my instructions, it's always better to have a specialist fix your problem!

Obviously we are not all flush with funds to pay a specialist which is why I created some simple bypass instructions to help my fellow TVR enthusiasts quickly and cheaply get their car running again and or starting with complete reliability, over the last four years these instructions have been shared with literally hundreds of Chim/Griff owners who have used them to permanently resolve their hot or no start issues at no cost.

Please note what I've sent you are my generic instructions to help Chimaera & Griffith owners who are suffering Meta security system issues, the instructions focus on the the starter solenoid circuit because for reasons I cover in my instructions... it's definitely the most problematic.

Its important to understand the Meta system not only interrupts the starter solenoid circuit but it also also interrupts the ECU circuit too, and its the ECU that actually controls your fuel pump. It therefore stands to reason if your Meta system is failing to switch on your ECU the ECU will never turn on your fuel pump. Its common to see Chimaera owners suffering the 'no fuel pump' issue to focus on the fuel pump relay, however often what they are suffering is a 'no power to the ECU' issue, which in turn is the result of the Meta system failing to switch the ECU on.

Start by checking if your ECU is actually getting +12v when you turn your ignition on and you've disengaged the immobiliser, the ECU receives it's +12v supply from the brown wire that goes to ECU pin 15. You can find the Meta ECU feed circuit in a similar way to how I describe finding the starter solenoid circuit in my instructions, basically for security reasons it'll be another one of the anonymous black wires shown in the attached photo. You're checking for continuity between the Meta controlled black wire that switches the ECU on and the brown wire at ECU pin 15 that ultimately gives power to your Lucas 14CUX ECU.

As you have no starter or fuel pump you may wish to complete the full bypass described right at the bottom of my instructions, however before you do this (or even the partial starter solenoid circuit bypass) it stands to reason you first need to establish if your Meta system is itself getting +12v (see above), if the Meta system is not getting power, obviously it'll never turn on any of the elements it controls!

The above is a basic overview and contains no information to put the security of our cars at risk, I have tried to help a wider audience by publishing some more specific information on the forum but the moderators removed it, so for more detail showing wiring diagrams and photo supported step by step instructions people will need to PM me. I will always do my best to respond in a timely fashion but I hope people understand I do so as a favor to my fellow TVR enthusiasts so please be patient and dont be afraid to send a thank you email if you find the instructions help you, which most do.

Disappointingly, some people, once they've taken my help... seem to conveniently forget the thank you element, and TBH if that trend continues I may have to stop sending out the instructions full stop

Dave.

[apn]

Hi
Would you mind sharing with me as well?
I've got a problem starting and before I get anyone to sort it I'd like to identify if the immobiliser is the issue as one specialist suggested, but before I get someone to travel to me to work on the Meta I want to know if it is indeed the issue.
Thanks

[ChimpOnGas]

apn said:

Hi
Would you mind sharing with me as well?
I've got a problem starting and before I get anyone to sort it I'd like to identify if the immobiliser is the issue as one specialist suggested, but before I get someone to travel to me to work on the Meta I want to know if it is indeed the issue.
Thanks

As previously stated, you'll need to PM me.

[Penelope Stopit]

Google - Wiring Diagram.........................
Use a little bit of thought for what should replace the ...........
There you have it

New Meta M36T2 systems for sale on Ebay for under 55 pounds

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Thatcham-Cat-2-Immobilise...