winter storage! what do you do?
Discussion
For 13 years my Griff was put away at the end of Sept not to come out until April/May.
Some people like to move their car about to prevent flat spots etc but I usually put new tyres on each April anyway so never worried myself with this.
Fuel is fine, it doesn't degrade quickly enough to be an issue and its going to be cool to cold anyway.
Stick it on trickle in a dry garage after ensuring its been thoroughly cleaned, dried and greased where needed.
Some people like to move their car about to prevent flat spots etc but I usually put new tyres on each April anyway so never worried myself with this.
Fuel is fine, it doesn't degrade quickly enough to be an issue and its going to be cool to cold anyway.
Stick it on trickle in a dry garage after ensuring its been thoroughly cleaned, dried and greased where needed.
DonkeyApple said:
For 13 years my Griff was put away at the end of Sept not to come out until April/May.
Some people like to move their car about to prevent flat spots etc but I usually put new tyres on each April anyway so never worried myself with this.
Fuel is fine, it doesn't degrade quickly enough to be an issue and its going to be cool to cold anyway.
Stick it on trickle in a dry garage after ensuring its been thoroughly cleaned, dried and greased where needed.
Totally agree, what you dont do is run it up from time to time, leave it alone till spring.Some people like to move their car about to prevent flat spots etc but I usually put new tyres on each April anyway so never worried myself with this.
Fuel is fine, it doesn't degrade quickly enough to be an issue and its going to be cool to cold anyway.
Stick it on trickle in a dry garage after ensuring its been thoroughly cleaned, dried and greased where needed.
Thats about my usual programme for more than 10 years now:
Washed and dried (esp. brakes and brake discs)
Brake dust removed from wheels
Check antifreeze !!!!!!!!
Fresh engine oil (and filter)
Put on trickle charger
Lubricate and grease or WD40 on moving parts in engine bay
Cleaning Stepper Motor and coat in WD40
High tire pressure
Not in gear
No handbrake
Softtop up but not fully stretched
As it is usually a bit more damp in Ireland I would also spray WD 40
on frame and engine bay.
It disappears in a cloud of steam on first start the next year (engine bay it is).
Washed and dried (esp. brakes and brake discs)
Brake dust removed from wheels
Check antifreeze !!!!!!!!
Fresh engine oil (and filter)
Put on trickle charger
Lubricate and grease or WD40 on moving parts in engine bay
Cleaning Stepper Motor and coat in WD40
High tire pressure
Not in gear
No handbrake
Softtop up but not fully stretched
As it is usually a bit more damp in Ireland I would also spray WD 40
on frame and engine bay.
It disappears in a cloud of steam on first start the next year (engine bay it is).
cjj799 said:
anonymous said:
[redacted]
I dont think a ratchet spanner will fit on them. An open spanner is all that will fit on most of them.As for the paint I believe the biggest issue is cleaning them properly prior to painting.
g8ape said:
I have used a De-humidifier in my garage for 10+ years now and also have a humidity gauge, if you can keep the humidity below 55% steel supposedly doesnt rust. It seems to work and they dont cost a fortune to buy or run.
I have one of those too ...... surprising how much moisture it can remove from the air.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Have a read of this http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...Stokes of sheffield high temp aluminium. Just need to touch it up once a year.
If the last few years is anything to go buy I usually blow one of my pistons through the exhaust, swear at it and then shut the garage door and leave it there in a state of disgrace until the spring 
Either that or on the rare occasions where it does work I drop the roof down and go find a big area covered in snow
Sorry for taking over with my facetious comments
Just jealous that you have the option to lay up
Either that or on the rare occasions where it does work I drop the roof down and go find a big area covered in snow
Sorry for taking over with my facetious comments
Just jealous that you have the option to lay up
ESDavey said:
As above but I would add :
I would never recommend doing that with the clutch pedal as you will weaken the cover plate diagram/spring over lay up kind of periods IMO - 1 remove wheels & support on axle stands (good for tyres, gives access to lube)
- 2 3x2 to depress the clutch fully (lots of padding against the seat)
- 3 Feed leather
if the clutch sticks then you have damp storage and I suggest you sort that 1st anonymous said:
[redacted]
I have just had my manifolds off and re sprayed them. 18months ago i sprayed them with Halfords VHT manifold paint. They looked good but after 18 months they had started to flake. I have just re done them in Rustoleum BBQ and stove paint. Definately a different paint so we will see how this stuff survives. It is definately black and says resists heat to 650c. The Halfords was more of a grey/black. 
carsy said:
I have just had my manifolds off and re sprayed them. 18months ago i sprayed them with Halfords VHT manifold paint. They looked good but after 18 months they had started to flake. I have just re done them in Rustoleum BBQ and stove paint. Definately a different paint so we will see how this stuff survives. It is definately black and says resists heat to 650c. The Halfords was more of a grey/black.
Spec of dirt, bottom left. 
Looking at the way the paint goes on, this bbq stove paint seems much better than the Halfords. Time will tell. As with anything its the prep work. try and get them as clean and rust free as possible for the paint to have any lasting chance.
I have had the manifolds on and off a few times now and yes it can all be done from above, it just takes a little longer tightening the lower bolts. For the top ones an open ended spanner is all you need. For the lower ones i use a ring key with a slight angle on it
Taking them off is easy its the putting back on , lower bolts thats a bit fiddly. I use a magnet on a stick type affair to lower the lower bolts into position. Another good tip which i think i will do next time is to cut a slot into each of the lower flange / holes so that you can start the lower bolts and then lower the manifold onto them. This just makes it easier as the gaskets can also be held in place by the already located bolts.
Tightening the lower bolts from underneath is easier and quicker but on the nearside you will have to take the exhaust off for access. On the drivers side you can only realistically get to the centre two bolts from underneath. The outer two have to be accessed from up top.
I have had the manifolds on and off a few times now and yes it can all be done from above, it just takes a little longer tightening the lower bolts. For the top ones an open ended spanner is all you need. For the lower ones i use a ring key with a slight angle on it
Taking them off is easy its the putting back on , lower bolts thats a bit fiddly. I use a magnet on a stick type affair to lower the lower bolts into position. Another good tip which i think i will do next time is to cut a slot into each of the lower flange / holes so that you can start the lower bolts and then lower the manifold onto them. This just makes it easier as the gaskets can also be held in place by the already located bolts.
Tightening the lower bolts from underneath is easier and quicker but on the nearside you will have to take the exhaust off for access. On the drivers side you can only realistically get to the centre two bolts from underneath. The outer two have to be accessed from up top.
The spanner is just a normal spanner open ender one end and a ring the other. The ring end is a fixed angle and is just angled away from the rest of the spanner. Nothing special.
I would never take the exhaust off to do the manifolds, its just on this occasion i just happened to have it off for other things. I have always done them from up top.
The circular Y piece gaskets i get from TVR Power. Not sure if any one else does them. Interestingly i put 2 on each side simply because two seem to fill the bigger than ideal gap better than one. Some dont use gaskets on the y at all and just use exhaust paste but with the gap on mine it would never pull together.
I would never take the exhaust off to do the manifolds, its just on this occasion i just happened to have it off for other things. I have always done them from up top.
The circular Y piece gaskets i get from TVR Power. Not sure if any one else does them. Interestingly i put 2 on each side simply because two seem to fill the bigger than ideal gap better than one. Some dont use gaskets on the y at all and just use exhaust paste but with the gap on mine it would never pull together.
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