Battery where ever it fits .

[SILICONEKID340HP]

Can anyone give me any advice on routing cables for my new racing battery kit with bespoke bracket and cables,just purchased the kit from Classifieds,it will be a step closer to reduce the rats nest ..

Where is the ground point ?
cheers

Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Tuesday 20th November 22:47

[Barreti]

Where are you thinking of installing it Daz?

[Goaty Bill]

ChimpofDarkness did a full description of re-wiring his battery, in the standard location.

I couldn't find the link, but the information looked extremely useful to me.

[Pink_Floyd]

SILICONEKID340HP said:

Where is the ground point ?

Battery negative is connected to the bolt at the top of the transmission tunnel on the passenger side.

[SILICONEKID340HP]

Im thinking of whipping the petrol tank out and connecting the ground behind the tank ,then running a cable to the starter .

Not sure which is the best route ,there are loads of options,along the chassis etc,while im at it i may change some more ground cables ,seen another bolted to the chassis close to the drivers side front wheel .

Someone on here mentioned they need a battery box ,its going to be spare ..

What does worry me if i don`t run the cables through the grommit in the bulk head it may leak water in to the car .

What is the tool i need to crimp the cables ?

Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Wednesday 21st November 21:16

Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Wednesday 21st November 21:17

[phillpot]

SILICONEKID340HP said:

Im thinking of whipping the petrol tank out and connecting the ground behind the tank ,then running a cable to the starter .

That's how I did mine

SILICONEKID340HP said:

What is the tool i need to crimp the cables ?

something like this ?

[phazed]

phillpot said:

something like this ?

Daz, I crimp mine on the best I can without a special tool and then solder them,..... right up your street!

You should have an earth strap from the offside engine mount/chassis bolt to the engine.

Edited by phazed on Thursday 22 November 08:45

[dbv8]

I dont have an earth strap as you describe Peter.
Maybe i have had some earthing issues for a while also.

I have issues with engine tune running weak when i turn my nitrous bottle heater on. I think it draws 20 amp which shouldnt really be a major issue with the engine running.

I plan to move my battery and fuse box over Christmas and to 'upgrade' any wiring issues i can. I had thoughts of maybe a second battery

[phazed]

My motorhome has a 2nd battery .

You just need a decent output from the alternator, and a switching circuit for charging.

[SILICONEKID340HP]

phillpot said:

SILICONEKID340HP said:

Im thinking of whipping the petrol tank out and connecting the ground behind the tank ,then running a cable to the starter .

That's how I did mine

SILICONEKID340HP said:

What is the tool i need to crimp the cables ?

something like this ?

I might try and hire one ! Where did you run your live cable and i was thinking maybe replacing the cable from the starter to the fuse and the ground close to the off side wheel.

I can loose that fuse or even replace the holder ,where can i get one from

Anyone interested in the fibreglass carpeted box ?

Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Thursday 22 November 14:03

Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Thursday 22 November 14:25

Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Thursday 22 November 14:27

Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Thursday 22 November 17:56

[ChimpofDarkness]

SILICONEKID340HP said:

I might try and hire one ! Where have you run your live cable and i was thinking maybe replacing the cable from the starter to the fuse and the ground close to the off side wheel.

Find your local industrial electric motor engineer, take the marked up cables to them with your terminals & ask then to cut the cables to length, crimp & tin the terminals on adding heat shrink insulation as required.

That's what I did when I replaced my battery lead, well actually I bought the heavy duty lead from them too.

They do this type of thing all day long, they have the heave duty cutters, crimping tools and sundries needed to do a proper job.

And it'll probably cost you less than hiring a crimping tool, if you can even find someone that will hire you one that is.

[SILICONEKID340HP]

ChimpofDarkness said:

SILICONEKID340HP said:

I might try and hire one ! Where have you run your live cable and i was thinking maybe replacing the cable from the starter to the fuse and the ground close to the off side wheel.

Find your local industrial electric motor engineer, take the marked up cables to them with your terminals & ask then to cut the cables to length, crimp & tin the terminals on adding heat shrink insulation as required.

That's what I did when I replaced my battery lead, well actually I bought the heavy duty lead from them too.

They do this type of thing all day long, they have the heave duty cutters, crimping tools and sundries needed to do a proper job.

And it'll probably cost you less than hiring a crimping tool, if you can even find someone that will hire you one that is.

That sounds a good idea but i will need to part fit it then remove to work out the correct lengths

Where did you run your cables ? Its a pity it does not fit behind the seat without cutting the fibre glass

[ChimpofDarkness]

I ran mine the traditional way Daz, my battery still resides in the passenger foot well with the new Canems ECU.

Naff all leg room TBH but hey what do I care, the wife is compact & I'm the driver, there's plenty of leg room on my side.

I fitted a heavier live cable from the battery to the starter and added in an additional earth to the block from the neg terminal.

Well worth doing, that & an immobiliser bypass on the starter solenoid circuit and she spins over like a top every time.

I wanted to kill the starting issues dead so I added an Odyssey PC1500 battery and a BatteryBrain to remotely disconnect it.

No connection, no drain, I also found a lot of that drain came from the interior light delay relay so that's been deleted too, along with the temperamental passenger door pin switch.

I'd love to rewire the damn thing properly, but that's time & major surgery, I just need it to work today.

So I took the crude but effective pruning and disconnecting approach, nothing of consequence has been lost it's just made the old girl trustworthy.

It'll start now after 4 months left without a start or a trickle charge, but TBH the longest break its had is 2 weeks cos I love driving it.

I've probably over engineered the problems away, but the starting issues used to really P me off so I took the belt & braces approach.

Never again will I fancy a spin on a sunny day only to find the battery is flat, that's just not acceptable.

[SILICONEKID340HP]

ChimpofDarkness said:

I ran mine the traditional way Daz, my battery still resides in the passenger foot well with the new Canems ECU.

Naff all leg room TBH but hey what do I care, the wife is compact & I'm the driver, there's plenty of leg room on my side.

I fitted a heavier live cable from the battery to the starter and added in an additional earth to the block from the neg terminal.

Well worth doing, that & an immobiliser bypass on the starter solenoid circuit and she spins over like a top every time.

I wanted to kill the starting issues dead so I added an Odyssey PC1500 battery and a BatteryBrain to remotely disconnect it.

No connection, no drain, I also found a lot of that drain came from the interior light delay relay so that's been deleted too, along with the temperamental passenger door pin switch.

I'd love to rewire the damn thing properly, but that's time & major surgery, I just need it to work today.

So I took the crude but effective pruning and disconnecting approach, nothing of consequence has been lost it's just made the old girl trustworthy.

It'll start now after 4 months left without a start or a trickle charge, but TBH the longest break its had is 2 weeks cos I love driving it.

I've probably over engineered the problems away, but the starting issues used to really P me off so I took the belt & braces approach.

Never again will I fancy a spin on a sunny day only to find the battery is flat, that's just not acceptable.

Thanks for that ,i pulled the relay for the interior light ,seems to help with battery drain . Some idiot fitted a new alarm which for some reason gives me a constant dim light on the bottom light inbeteen the speedo and rec counter.

your a Gent ..

[TVR Thunder]

Hi guys,

I manage an 'Electrical Controls Division' of a motor repair business & my guys do this easy every day.

If you could send me the cables / crimps etc I would cut / crimp / sleeve etc to your required lengths. All free of charge (just cover your postage costs!) to help fellow PH's out no problem.

Ian.

[phillpot]

SILICONEKID340HP said:

Where did you run your live cable ?

Ran new cable from boot, up over nearside wheel arch, couldn't "fish" through sill (full of expanding foam stuff)so under carpet along inside of sill. Then I cheated a bit, crimped a lug on and joined to existing cable rather than disturbing seal through bulkhead and taking all the way to starter. Join taped up to insulate (although not much to short to in a fibreglass car) and tucked away behind that panel to left of passengers feet!