Oil consumption on a XJR 1998 with 75k??
Discussion
Some oil consumption is normal on higher mileage V8s. Thinner fuel economy oils such as 5W/30 may also burn off at higher rates.
Check oil with the engine cold and the car on level ground - ideally once a week if you think you have a consumption problem. Whatever you do don't let the oil level go below the minimum mark on the dipstick. You run the risk of oil starvation on hard cornering if you do.
Check oil with the engine cold and the car on level ground - ideally once a week if you think you have a consumption problem. Whatever you do don't let the oil level go below the minimum mark on the dipstick. You run the risk of oil starvation on hard cornering if you do.
My old 100k V8 used a couple of litres every 7-8 k or so between oil changes. My curent 36k V8 seems about the same.
Both run on fully synthetic 5W/40
At very high rpm or heavy load any hard driven engine will always use more oil than a lightly loaded one as the oil scraper rings on the pistons flex slightly and loose efficency.
Another cause of high oil consumption on the V8 is a blocked breather pipe leading to excess crank case pressurisation - there's a calibrated 2.5 mm hole in the stub of the cam cover on the left bank part load breather pipe. Worth checking this is clear and none of the other breather pipes are blocked. With the engine hot and idling turn and lift the oil filler cap slightly. If there's any significant pressure or a rush of oily fumes out of the engine then this may be the problem.
Both run on fully synthetic 5W/40
At very high rpm or heavy load any hard driven engine will always use more oil than a lightly loaded one as the oil scraper rings on the pistons flex slightly and loose efficency.
Another cause of high oil consumption on the V8 is a blocked breather pipe leading to excess crank case pressurisation - there's a calibrated 2.5 mm hole in the stub of the cam cover on the left bank part load breather pipe. Worth checking this is clear and none of the other breather pipes are blocked. With the engine hot and idling turn and lift the oil filler cap slightly. If there's any significant pressure or a rush of oily fumes out of the engine then this may be the problem.
I'd stick with a 5W/40. There are marginal fuel consumption benefits from going thinner which Jaguar permit, but IMO quality of lube oil and changing it regurlarly is more important than the differences in viscosity between say a 0W/30 and a 5W/40.
I've always ben happy to pay more for a fully synthetic oil - providing you make sure that's really what's in the can and not just written on the label.
Synthetic has much greater heat dissapation properties and unlike mineral oils stays in viscosity grade throughought it's service life. It also has a much better lubrication effect then mineral oil which will save fuel and reduce wear rates on critical components like timing chains. All other things being equal it should help to control oil consumption as well but no oil on the planet is ever going to mend a tired engine.
If you're going to check the part throttle breather the safest way to clear the calibrated hole inside the pipe mounting stub is to carefully use a 2.5mm drill bit by hand.
I've always ben happy to pay more for a fully synthetic oil - providing you make sure that's really what's in the can and not just written on the label.
Synthetic has much greater heat dissapation properties and unlike mineral oils stays in viscosity grade throughought it's service life. It also has a much better lubrication effect then mineral oil which will save fuel and reduce wear rates on critical components like timing chains. All other things being equal it should help to control oil consumption as well but no oil on the planet is ever going to mend a tired engine.
If you're going to check the part throttle breather the safest way to clear the calibrated hole inside the pipe mounting stub is to carefully use a 2.5mm drill bit by hand.
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