2500m body work
Discussion
Hi just joined PH .I own a 2500m and live in France,ive had the car for the past 20 years and for various reasons have never driven it!The main reason is i stripped it down and never got round to putting it back together untill now.
My main question is would the original paint be cellulose or 2 k.The car is a 1972 reg ,chassis nos 2432.
I havnt done a full respray before,any hints on spraying with celly and body prep would be great
My main question is would the original paint be cellulose or 2 k.The car is a 1972 reg ,chassis nos 2432.
I havnt done a full respray before,any hints on spraying with celly and body prep would be great
There are a lot of things to learn about painting. I would urge you to do all/most of the preparation, and have a professional lay the paint. As important as anything else, they'll have a booth with proper filtration, and fresh air supply.
That way, you could also use urethane base/clear, and expect it to last a long time.
Best,
B.
That way, you could also use urethane base/clear, and expect it to last a long time.
Best,
B.
I could not agree more with Slow M, if you can afford pro paint then it is best, for many reasons not least an oven that means you can have space age paint applied which is a no no without baking.
However, I completed my apprenticeship as a panel beater and sprayer in 1972, at that time, we prepared the cars and sprayed them in situe, in mostly small workshops, with an extractor fan at best!
Work was all cellulose, but there were good isolator primers that would minimise sinkage, and pickling. This was the state of art when your 2500 M was built. The great advantage with cellulose is it's versatility in harsh conditions. it can be flat and polished, you must have enough coats , usually four times round the car, leave overnight, wet flat in the morning with 1200 grade wet or dry and plenty of soap, wash off, heat up workshop, wet the floor to settle dust, and apply four more coats. Leave as long as you can, several days at least, then flat with1200 and soap, and with a good cutting paste (farecla g7) ? rub and polish! the finish you can achieve is superb, and for an older car, arguably more attractive than space age plastic style...............
However, I completed my apprenticeship as a panel beater and sprayer in 1972, at that time, we prepared the cars and sprayed them in situe, in mostly small workshops, with an extractor fan at best!
Work was all cellulose, but there were good isolator primers that would minimise sinkage, and pickling. This was the state of art when your 2500 M was built. The great advantage with cellulose is it's versatility in harsh conditions. it can be flat and polished, you must have enough coats , usually four times round the car, leave overnight, wet flat in the morning with 1200 grade wet or dry and plenty of soap, wash off, heat up workshop, wet the floor to settle dust, and apply four more coats. Leave as long as you can, several days at least, then flat with1200 and soap, and with a good cutting paste (farecla g7) ? rub and polish! the finish you can achieve is superb, and for an older car, arguably more attractive than space age plastic style...............
My advice.
Do the stress cracks, structural fibreglassing all yourself.
Leave all the final prep. Contour sanding and finishing to the pro's. I am pretty good at body work but us amateurs tend to rub and rub for weeks..then take it to a pro who will laugh at your efforts, strip it back and lay on spray based hi build filler primers and contour sand in one tenth of the time it will take you.
N.
Do the stress cracks, structural fibreglassing all yourself.
Leave all the final prep. Contour sanding and finishing to the pro's. I am pretty good at body work but us amateurs tend to rub and rub for weeks..then take it to a pro who will laugh at your efforts, strip it back and lay on spray based hi build filler primers and contour sand in one tenth of the time it will take you.
N.
1. Yep, agree with Heightswitch on the process. Do the early steps yourself, then let the pros take over. They will do better job.
2. I thought that the Eurocrats had banned cellulose paints in favour of acylic?...which I am told is not as good (although I have never used it)
3. Beware talk of ovens. Fibreglass cars should NEVER be baked. The polymer is not intended to take the temperature. The structure will colapse
2. I thought that the Eurocrats had banned cellulose paints in favour of acylic?...which I am told is not as good (although I have never used it)
3. Beware talk of ovens. Fibreglass cars should NEVER be baked. The polymer is not intended to take the temperature. The structure will colapse
I think its the sale of Cyanide based paints that is the issue. In my former life we used to get paint sprayers admitted to the hospital on a regular basis. They thought it was ok to "just blow in a wing" or "its only a quick blow over". Cyanide is cumulative and KILLS, and did. You couldn,t buy it now if you wanted to.
My advice regardless of what paint you use is simple. If you want a professional finish, and the paint is the bit you see, pay a professional. Far better to get a job in your local corner shop and save the money than spend hundreds of hours in your garage acheiving a home done finish. You will need the patience of a saint to get a good enough finish with celly. Flatting down GRP cars with wet and dry is a huge No No, water is the enemy, it creeps down the exposed strands of the matting and pops up years later.
Low bake ovens are fine for GRP and if you can, get your sprayer to leave the car in his oven while its cooling down for a few nights before you paint to drive out any water and solvents
My advice regardless of what paint you use is simple. If you want a professional finish, and the paint is the bit you see, pay a professional. Far better to get a job in your local corner shop and save the money than spend hundreds of hours in your garage acheiving a home done finish. You will need the patience of a saint to get a good enough finish with celly. Flatting down GRP cars with wet and dry is a huge No No, water is the enemy, it creeps down the exposed strands of the matting and pops up years later.
Low bake ovens are fine for GRP and if you can, get your sprayer to leave the car in his oven while its cooling down for a few nights before you paint to drive out any water and solvents
Edited by thegamekeeper on Saturday 24th November 18:12
No way can i afford a pro job on the car!
Patience,i must have to wait 20 years before making a start!
I have ground out most of the stress cracks and re fiberglassed,filled and sanded.I think everything is possible if you put the time and effort in.I lost the will to live after i pulled out the wiring loom and started to make a new one but managed in the end.One thing i cant understand,where the paint is rubbed down to the original prima i keep seeing small craters appearing with a small amount of moisture on it,.The car is in a barn thats dry etc
Patience,i must have to wait 20 years before making a start!
I have ground out most of the stress cracks and re fiberglassed,filled and sanded.I think everything is possible if you put the time and effort in.I lost the will to live after i pulled out the wiring loom and started to make a new one but managed in the end.One thing i cant understand,where the paint is rubbed down to the original prima i keep seeing small craters appearing with a small amount of moisture on it,.The car is in a barn thats dry etc
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