Buyers Guide - Help
Discussion
Recently been looking at getting a new car to replace my fez, was looking at golf Gti's, focus St's, Megane 225's etc, then i had a thought..what about the car i've always wanted since i was a kid? Didn't think i could afford it but it turns out i can afford the insurance so i might as well entertain the thought...i am worried about how easy they are to steal though, should i be? It WON'T be kept in a locked garage.
Anyway! I'm after a bit of a buyers guide i suppose..
I can't make my mind up between the 'newer' shape & the 'older' shape. Anyone have a review for either? I'm looking at the WRX, don't think i could trust myself with an STI....yet & I'll be leaving the car completely standard for at least a year, if i ever modded it at all.
Any common problems to look out for on either shape or any positives/negatives for either shape?
Anyway! I'm after a bit of a buyers guide i suppose..
I can't make my mind up between the 'newer' shape & the 'older' shape. Anyone have a review for either? I'm looking at the WRX, don't think i could trust myself with an STI....yet & I'll be leaving the car completely standard for at least a year, if i ever modded it at all.
Any common problems to look out for on either shape or any positives/negatives for either shape?
kentlad said:
Recently been looking at getting a new car to replace my fez, was looking at golf Gti's, focus St's, Megane 225's etc, then i had a thought..what about the car i've always wanted since i was a kid? Didn't think i could afford it but it turns out i can afford the insurance so i might as well entertain the thought...i am worried about how easy they are to steal though, should i be? It WON'T be kept in a locked garage.
Anyway! I'm after a bit of a buyers guide i suppose..
I can't make my mind up between the 'newer' shape & the 'older' shape. Anyone have a review for either? I'm looking at the WRX, don't think i could trust myself with an STI....yet & I'll be leaving the car completely standard for at least a year, if i ever modded it at all.
Any common problems to look out for on either shape or any positives/negatives for either shape?
All depends on budget. I love my classic but I'm sure a newage makes more sense from a reliability point of view. The blobeye WRX (2003-2005)would be the one to have IMO and many will agree I am sure. Even better if it has the Prodrive Performance Pack! Look for one with the usual low owners and full service history and I'm sure you won't go too far wrong.Anyway! I'm after a bit of a buyers guide i suppose..
I can't make my mind up between the 'newer' shape & the 'older' shape. Anyone have a review for either? I'm looking at the WRX, don't think i could trust myself with an STI....yet & I'll be leaving the car completely standard for at least a year, if i ever modded it at all.
Any common problems to look out for on either shape or any positives/negatives for either shape?
paul555sti said:
kentlad said:
I'll be leaving the car completely standard for at least a year, if i ever modded it at all.
That will never happen! 
If you can afford it get the sti cause one day you will start modding and then you will spend cash bringing the wrx up the sti level.
Unless you need the space in which case get a WRX Wagon. Much better than a 4dr WRX
For what its worth, my insurance said if I had not done the mods then it doesnt matter
I insured a 04 PPP wrx with Aviva
to help get a cheaper quote, get an online quote and wait for them to call you, usually the next day and try and get it lower
and, I dont think there is much difference between a year 2000 and 2004 driving wise
I insured a 04 PPP wrx with Aviva
to help get a cheaper quote, get an online quote and wait for them to call you, usually the next day and try and get it lower
and, I dont think there is much difference between a year 2000 and 2004 driving wise
Edited by zombies on Friday 30th November 15:23
They are very rarely stolen. The insurance is high because they are crashed.
Cat 1 alarm immobiliser, and many were also fitted with trackers which may (or may not) help with insurance. Mine had a tracker fitted, and would have lowered insurance £50, but cost £150 to activate. I didn't bother.
Cat 1 alarm immobiliser, and many were also fitted with trackers which may (or may not) help with insurance. Mine had a tracker fitted, and would have lowered insurance £50, but cost £150 to activate. I didn't bother.
ScoobieWRX said:
+1 Wot eee said every time!!
Unless you need the space in which case get a WRX Wagon. Much better than a 4dr WRX
Please can people stop recommending wrx wagons especially with ppp?! It's driving me crazy trying to track one down. I currently make up 62.7% of all autotrader's traffic! Unless you need the space in which case get a WRX Wagon. Much better than a 4dr WRX
Forget the PPP. Just get a nice normal unmolested and well looked after OK mileage WRX and get it modded, otherwise by the sounds of it you're going to be looking for the right PPP WRX for a bloody long time.
I understand why you want a PPP from an insurance point of view because many insurers recognised PPP as an actual model and may be easier to insure, however, modding/remapping a standard car and ending up with something that's way better than PPP but paying much the same for insurance has got to make a lot of sense.
You are possessed by PPP. The PPP in you needs to be exorcised!!
"The power of scoob compels you!!....The power of scoob compels you!!......The power of scoob compels you!!...Be gone PPP!!!!!!!"
I understand why you want a PPP from an insurance point of view because many insurers recognised PPP as an actual model and may be easier to insure, however, modding/remapping a standard car and ending up with something that's way better than PPP but paying much the same for insurance has got to make a lot of sense.
You are possessed by PPP. The PPP in you needs to be exorcised!!
"The power of scoob compels you!!....The power of scoob compels you!!......The power of scoob compels you!!...Be gone PPP!!!!!!!"
Edited by ScoobieWRX on Monday 3rd December 22:30
sorry for the hijacking/resurrection
I'm going to see a 2005 Impreza WRX tomorrow, and I've no experience with these!
is there anything particular to this model to look out for?
it's supposed to have fsh with a recent cambelt change, so i'll check this. It also has a large exhaust, but how can I tell if it's still got the main cat? ( is it in the downpipe after the manifold?) and is there any way of telling if it has other mods? reason for asking is I'm after a reasonably standard car as it will be my daily drive, so I don't need problems come MOT time!
I'm going to see a 2005 Impreza WRX tomorrow, and I've no experience with these!
is there anything particular to this model to look out for?
it's supposed to have fsh with a recent cambelt change, so i'll check this. It also has a large exhaust, but how can I tell if it's still got the main cat? ( is it in the downpipe after the manifold?) and is there any way of telling if it has other mods? reason for asking is I'm after a reasonably standard car as it will be my daily drive, so I don't need problems come MOT time!
Main thing with a 2005 WRX is check its shocks work. They use an inverted strut and they lose lubrication and seize. It's almost inevitable that it will have happened by now. Any knocking, clunking or groaning should be treated with utmost suspicion. I found it particularly noticeable when making low speed manouveres, like parking up. Sounds like a diff is f
ked.
They're outrageous priice from Subaru £550 a corner, and going aftermarket of course means you have to change more than one ,and possibly all four.
They have 3 cats, one on the up pipe before the turbo, one on the down pipe, and the third n the mid-section. Ditching the pre turbo cat is a sensible move and won't affect MOT.
happy hunting!
ked.They're outrageous priice from Subaru £550 a corner, and going aftermarket of course means you have to change more than one ,and possibly all four.
They have 3 cats, one on the up pipe before the turbo, one on the down pipe, and the third n the mid-section. Ditching the pre turbo cat is a sensible move and won't affect MOT.
happy hunting!
Could be. There's no rhyme or reason to them failing. My mate had a 2006 car with them which failed at 10,000 miles. They WILL fail over time though, so make sure they're working now, or have been replaced with something sensible. That'll give you time to source replacements.
A nice check for originality is every door, the bonnet, the boot should have a little orange and grey sticker on it with the VIN on it - and obviously these should match each other and the car they're on.
Basically, everything electrical should work, it should drive straight and true, and pull well right through the rev range. No untowards noises from the drivetrain. They do lack sound deadening so you get a fair amount of road noise, but there should be any obvious groaning or whirring. Ride should be pretty good, loading up well in bends if it's on standard suspension, with perhaps a bit more body roll than you might expect. If it's had it's suspension overhauled though, all bets are off. It could have a thicker rear ARB on there to reduce understeer, or just some crazy geometry on it.
Check inside edges of front tyres, they tend to get worn first even if the middle/outside of the tyres looks fine.
Check the clutch holds well, and obviously service history and cambelt at 50k or 5 years in particular is an absolute must.
Brakes aren't that great as standard but should work well with firm pedal feel. If it's got "brembos" on it they're from an STi, a popular upgrade from the Sti's.
A nice check for originality is every door, the bonnet, the boot should have a little orange and grey sticker on it with the VIN on it - and obviously these should match each other and the car they're on.
Basically, everything electrical should work, it should drive straight and true, and pull well right through the rev range. No untowards noises from the drivetrain. They do lack sound deadening so you get a fair amount of road noise, but there should be any obvious groaning or whirring. Ride should be pretty good, loading up well in bends if it's on standard suspension, with perhaps a bit more body roll than you might expect. If it's had it's suspension overhauled though, all bets are off. It could have a thicker rear ARB on there to reduce understeer, or just some crazy geometry on it.
Check inside edges of front tyres, they tend to get worn first even if the middle/outside of the tyres looks fine.
Check the clutch holds well, and obviously service history and cambelt at 50k or 5 years in particular is an absolute must.
Brakes aren't that great as standard but should work well with firm pedal feel. If it's got "brembos" on it they're from an STi, a popular upgrade from the Sti's.
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