P38 Range Rover Which one to go for ?
Discussion
Are there any mechanics or owners here that could answer which would be the best to go for regarding reliability ?
I appreciate they're getting on now but i'm without a car for a possible 10 months and fancy one to smoke around in !
forgetting mpg as i do very little mileage and any work miles are paid for.
What should i look for regarding its maintanance/previous history?
thanks
I appreciate they're getting on now but i'm without a car for a possible 10 months and fancy one to smoke around in !
forgetting mpg as i do very little mileage and any work miles are paid for.
What should i look for regarding its maintanance/previous history?
thanks
The 4.0 seems very slow these days and who would want a diesel? 4.6 HSE is the only way to go. Check for leaks as they can be indicative of expensive issues, although they all seem to leak a bit. Make sure the air suspension works and if the little book symbol is present on the climate screen check that the blowers are working as they're expensive to replace.
unrepentant said:
The 4.0 seems very slow these days and who would want a diesel? 4.6 HSE is the only way to go. Check for leaks as they can be indicative of expensive issues, although they all seem to leak a bit. Make sure the air suspension works and if the little book symbol is present on the climate screen check that the blowers are working as they're expensive to replace.
Virtually no difference between the performance of a 4.0 and a 4.6. Both of them are considered slow these days but it's not really what they are about?The diesel really is slow. Adding a powerbox does improve things but trashes the gearbox.
4.6 isn't too bad, but both of the V8s are prone to slipped cylinder liners so check for any symptoms of head gasket problems (ie pressurising the coolant).
If you can find one that's had a top hatted replacement engine then you'll be laughing. Everything else is fairly easily and cheaply fixable - loads of help on forums like landyzone.co.uk and rangerovers.net.
You'll be amazed at just how good they are off road too. The later ones (99 on) had four wheel traction control and a more up to date engine management system, although they seem to be more prone to key sync problems.
Hope that helps.
4.6 isn't too bad, but both of the V8s are prone to slipped cylinder liners so check for any symptoms of head gasket problems (ie pressurising the coolant).
If you can find one that's had a top hatted replacement engine then you'll be laughing. Everything else is fairly easily and cheaply fixable - loads of help on forums like landyzone.co.uk and rangerovers.net.
You'll be amazed at just how good they are off road too. The later ones (99 on) had four wheel traction control and a more up to date engine management system, although they seem to be more prone to key sync problems.
Hope that helps.
St John Smythe said:
Virtually no difference between the performance of a 4.0 and a 4.6. Both of them are considered slow these days but it's not really what they are about?
"Bosch" engined 4.6's feel considerably more powerful than the 4.0 and the engine produces more HP and considerably more torque (about 30% more IIRC).unrepentant said:
St John Smythe said:
Virtually no difference between the performance of a 4.0 and a 4.6. Both of them are considered slow these days but it's not really what they are about?
"Bosch" engined 4.6's feel considerably more powerful than the 4.0 and the engine produces more HP and considerably more torque (about 30% more IIRC).Slow they might be compared to modern fast SUV's, but the p38 can still cut it with the V8 posting similar 0-60mph as most normal hatchbacks do today. They'll also top 100mph+ easily enough too.
In the US there was a big recall after legal action was taken against LR for the 4.6 not making the claimed 225hp and being nearer to 200hp. In the UK I don't know if there was such a recall, so maybe most 4.6's aren't actually as powerful as claimed.
300bhp/ton said:
In the US there was a big recall after legal action was taken against LR for the 4.6 not making the claimed 225hp and being nearer to 200hp. In the UK I don't know if there was such a recall, so maybe most 4.6's aren't actually as powerful as claimed.
Rover V8 in 'not making claimed power' shock 
300bhp/ton said:
Slow they might be compared to modern fast SUV's, but the p38 can still cut it with the V8 posting similar 0-60mph as most normal hatchbacks do today. They'll also top 100mph+ easily enough too.
In the US there was a big recall after legal action was taken against LR for the 4.6 not making the claimed 225hp and being nearer to 200hp. In the UK I don't know if there was such a recall, so maybe most 4.6's aren't actually as powerful as claimed.
I drove the new S/C 2013 FFRR yesterday. All I know is that my P38 feels very slow compared to that. In the US there was a big recall after legal action was taken against LR for the 4.6 not making the claimed 225hp and being nearer to 200hp. In the UK I don't know if there was such a recall, so maybe most 4.6's aren't actually as powerful as claimed.
The P38 is quick enough on the road and my old smoker went everywhere that the L322's did when I took it up to the Badlands recently.
Re the other thing, I think that may be an urban myth.
We've been a LR dealer since they came into the country in 1987 and nobody here recalls such a thing. What were they going to do, put a super chip in? unrepentant said:
St John Smythe said:
Virtually no difference between the performance of a 4.0 and a 4.6. Both of them are considered slow these days but it's not really what they are about?
"Bosch" engined 4.6's feel considerably more powerful than the 4.0 and the engine produces more HP and considerably more torque (about 30% more IIRC).
The Wookie said:
300bhp/ton said:
In the US there was a big recall after legal action was taken against LR for the 4.6 not making the claimed 225hp and being nearer to 200hp. In the UK I don't know if there was such a recall, so maybe most 4.6's aren't actually as powerful as claimed.
Rover V8 in 'not making claimed power' shock agent006 said:
Best P38 to go for? 4.6 HSE
Best P38 for reliability? 2.5 DT Manual
If you don't mind cracked heads and broken clutch pins.Best P38 for reliability? 2.5 DT Manual
The auto is such a good box, particularly in the 4.6, I can't imagine why you would want a manual transmission in it.
I've offroaded in both and I would always go for the auto. It's just so much easier.
PWE said:
Possibly going to look at a 4.0 westminster ?
Anyone know the difference over or below an HSE ?
I'm waiting to hear back on a few q's before i commit to the trip to see it as its a bit of a treck.
Thanks for the comments so far.
Pretty sure the trim level is above a Vogue which itself is above an HSE.Anyone know the difference over or below an HSE ?
I'm waiting to hear back on a few q's before i commit to the trip to see it as its a bit of a treck.
Thanks for the comments so far.
kooky guy said:
If you don't mind cracked heads and broken clutch pins.
Funny enough, my Landy with the BMW 2.8 six uses the P38 manual diesel bellhousing and clutch arrangement and the first thing that ever broke on it was the clutch pin...Well apart from the A/C, but I'm not convinced that's ever worked!!
If you are going to buy one of these then go in with your eyes wide open.............
THEY ARE EXTREMELY COMPLICATED AND COST A FORTUNE TO REPAIR.
Eliot, a fully paid up member of this parish, has one and it is worth visiting his website to see what living with one entails(www.MEZ).
Apart from being a genuine lunatic he is also extremely handy with the spanners and, more to the point, the Electrics.
He also has a gismo that talks to his car(gibberish is its primary language).
Having said all that if you are taking the plunge get a 2000-2002 Vogue with the Thor engine management. Lovely to drive.
Here are some tips to save you money
1. If the air suspension breaks don't spend money to fix it - get a coil kit from Rimmer brothers for 300 quid and swap over.
2. If the engine starts knocking/tapping after it warms up you have a slipped liner - don't bother investigating just get a new block.
3. If it rattles from cold or on the over-run you need a new camshaft and lifters - change the chain and skim the heads while you are at it.
4. Don't look at the price of Fuel -run it on V-power - slightly more expensive but you will get 15% better fuel consumption after 500 miles or so.
Good Luck!
THEY ARE EXTREMELY COMPLICATED AND COST A FORTUNE TO REPAIR.
Eliot, a fully paid up member of this parish, has one and it is worth visiting his website to see what living with one entails(www.MEZ).
Apart from being a genuine lunatic he is also extremely handy with the spanners and, more to the point, the Electrics.
He also has a gismo that talks to his car(gibberish is its primary language).
Having said all that if you are taking the plunge get a 2000-2002 Vogue with the Thor engine management. Lovely to drive.
Here are some tips to save you money
1. If the air suspension breaks don't spend money to fix it - get a coil kit from Rimmer brothers for 300 quid and swap over.
2. If the engine starts knocking/tapping after it warms up you have a slipped liner - don't bother investigating just get a new block.
3. If it rattles from cold or on the over-run you need a new camshaft and lifters - change the chain and skim the heads while you are at it.
4. Don't look at the price of Fuel -run it on V-power - slightly more expensive but you will get 15% better fuel consumption after 500 miles or so.
Good Luck!
vjj said:
If the air suspension breaks don't spend money to fix it - get a coil kit from Rimmer brothers for 300 quid and swap over
Why get rid of the one of the best features of the car? It isn't wildly complicated."Yeah mate, couldn't set up the carbs on me Miura properly so I fixed it by sticking a CVH in it".
Trommel said:
vjj said:
If the air suspension breaks don't spend money to fix it - get a coil kit from Rimmer brothers for 300 quid and swap over
Why get rid of the one of the best features of the car? It isn't wildly complicated."Yeah mate, couldn't set up the carbs on me Miura properly so I fixed it by sticking a CVH in it".
It's not a complicated system, replacement air springs are cheap and a rebuild kit for the eas valve block is £25.
Worth reading this http://www.mez.co.uk/p38.html written by Eliot as mentioned above.
Disagree with some of this:
As someone else has said, why cripple it by removing what is probably the best feature of the car? it makes towing safer and easier (self levelling & raise up and down to hook on), it gives it good on road handling whilst retaining excellent off road ground clearance.
vjj said:
If you are going to buy one of these then go in with your eyes wide open.............
THEY ARE EXTREMELY COMPLICATED AND COST A FORTUNE TO REPAIR.
Only if you take it to a half witted or rip off garage. Download the workshop manual and they are very straightforward to repair. Parts are not particularly expensive with most available on Ebay or specialist suppliers.THEY ARE EXTREMELY COMPLICATED AND COST A FORTUNE TO REPAIR.
vjj said:
Eliot, a fully paid up member of this parish, has one and it is worth visiting his website to see what living with one entails(www.MEZ).
Apart from being a genuine lunatic he is also extremely handy with the spanners and, more to the point, the Electrics.
He also has a gismo that talks to his car(gibberish is its primary language).
Otherwise called a diagnostic reader - veraious varieties are availableApart from being a genuine lunatic he is also extremely handy with the spanners and, more to the point, the Electrics.
He also has a gismo that talks to his car(gibberish is its primary language).
vjj said:
Having said all that if you are taking the plunge get a 2000-2002 Vogue with the Thor engine management. Lovely to drive.
Here are some tips to save you money
1. If the air suspension breaks don't spend money to fix it - get a coil kit from Rimmer brothers for 300 quid and swap over.
Absolutely DO NOT DO THIS. It will be dangerous and will probably fail an MOT when the rules change. The air suspension lowers the centre of gravity at speed. The P38 was NEVER available with coil springs and NEVER intended to be used with them. The air suspension system is well understood and easy to fix. Refer to the appropriate forums for more information. Plenty of extremely knowledgeable help out there.Here are some tips to save you money
1. If the air suspension breaks don't spend money to fix it - get a coil kit from Rimmer brothers for 300 quid and swap over.
As someone else has said, why cripple it by removing what is probably the best feature of the car? it makes towing safer and easier (self levelling & raise up and down to hook on), it gives it good on road handling whilst retaining excellent off road ground clearance.
vjj said:
2. If the engine starts knocking/tapping after it warms up you have a slipped liner - don't bother investigating just get a new block.
3. If it rattles from cold or on the over-run you need a new camshaft and lifters - change the chain and skim the heads while you are at it.
4. Don't look at the price of Fuel -run it on V-power - slightly more expensive but you will get 15% better fuel consumption after 500 miles or so.
Good Luck!
The engine is prone to slipped liners as I mentioned before but if considering a replacement ensure it's had top hat liners fitted with cannot slip. I really wouldn't bother with super unleaded - I'd be amazed it you really noticed the difference. Mine's more than happy on lpg.3. If it rattles from cold or on the over-run you need a new camshaft and lifters - change the chain and skim the heads while you are at it.
4. Don't look at the price of Fuel -run it on V-power - slightly more expensive but you will get 15% better fuel consumption after 500 miles or so.
Good Luck!
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